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  1. #1

    1994 slt750 rebuild

    Typical newbie rebuilding a slt750. I am rebuilding it from the crank up and I just put the top head on and torqued them. I was wondering should I put the entire engine together before I put it in the jetski or is there some thing I have to keep off until I put it in. I have been reading this site for three weeks and it is by far the best site on the web. Downloaded and printed out the shop manual and have been doing most of what is said.
    I think I found a new passion.


    Goat1616


  2. #2
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    Welcome to the Hulk.

    Hopefully you read that you must install the exh manifold (even temporarily if you want) before you torque the cyl nuts down. There's a chance if you torque them first, that the manifold can "move" the cyls in order to get them in line. This will damage the cyl base gasket and cause an air leak.

    Also, make sure to do a leak down test before you install the engine. That way you can catch a potential problem before it even has a chance to ruin anything.

    You can fully assemble the engine, and still get it into the belly of the beast. But it does take a little twist here, and lean there to do so. (not too bad) OR, you can make it easy on yourself and leave the carbs off. It's up to you.

  3. #3
    bowsniper's Avatar
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    leave the exhaust manifold off(you have to shove the big pipe up front as far as it can go and shift it back n forth to get the exhaust manilfold bolts to all go in. not hard to do, just have to slide it back n forth to gain access.

    Leave the manifold off and the carbs on. its a pain in the ass to tighten them once on.. FT. way easier to just put the manifold on after its in.

    although, being a slt, you can drop the entire thing in yourself leaving both on.. Just leave the giant pipe shoved forward in the hull already. it wont go in after.. you will need to use an alignment tool to get everything straight. shift the motor to one side(carbs down) and slid it right in.. i do it by myself standing in the gunnels and lowering it in.. a chain fall would be much easier..


    you could not use it and try to get it even enough so everythig slides together perfectly(but im not advising it!) "disclaimer" lol .. but the alignment tool is what ya really need. it has an extremly close tolerence 0.00/+/_ .0005 there are shims you use under the plate where it bolts to the hull. they use plastic or stainless steel shims with slots in them to get it even.. it must be even on both planes.. x-axis,y-axis or else youll strip or sharpen the splines on the driveshaft or impellor splines or apply unwanted stress to the thru hull bushing. that tool can be had from Randy from Watcon.com..

  4. #4
    bowsniper's Avatar
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    route the steering cable under the engine plate and the pitot tubing also. Thats a clear tube that runs from the gauge in the dash to the shark fin fitting under the driveshaft. that way its already there when you drop the engine in..the water pressure gets measured by air pushing in the tube up to the sensor in the gauge,, Its called the "Dream-O-Meter" because it fibs a little being too high on actual speed.lol

  5. #5
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bowsniper View Post
    leave the exhaust manifold off(you have to shove the big pipe up front as far as it can go and shift it back n forth to get the exhaust manilfold bolts to all go in. not hard to do, just have to slide it back n forth to gain access.

    Leave the manifold off and the carbs on. its a pain in the ass to tighten them once on.. FT. way easier to just put the manifold on after its in.
    Are you kidding me??????

    Remove the fuel tank and the exh pipe can be installed through the hood. No need to leave it in the hull.

    You'd rather deal with trying to install 3 seperate gaskets, (or 1 if you get factory gaskets) the exh manifold, 9 bolts right upside the hull, and torque them to spec VS. 6 carb nuts?

    You're crazy........

  6. #6
    bowsniper's Avatar
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    i never thought of taking the tank out and installing the pipe that way. sweet idea!.

  7. #7
    johnsonmtz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bowsniper View Post
    i never thought of taking the tank out and installing the pipe that way. sweet idea!.
    On the '94 SLT moving the fuel tank is an absolute breeze and is the best way to install the pipe. On the '96 and up SLT's it's a different story. The tank is held down by 4 bolts that are hidden by the flotation foam. They are an absolute pain to deal with. However, on the '96 it's a little tight, but you can install the engine with the exhaust manifold in place and the pipe in the ski. There is just barely enough room to slide the pipe forward and get it out of the way as you lower the engine.

    KJ

  8. #8
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnsonmtz View Post
    On the '94 SLT moving the fuel tank is an absolute breeze and is the best way to install the pipe.
    KJ
    You know that's right......


    I LOVE working on her SLT. TONS of room in there. Except where my exh pipe sits.

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