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  1. #1

    Question about hole shot from idle. sl780

    I was just wondering if I should be able to mash the throttle from idle without the ski bogging down...
    I can take off about half throttle and about 1 or 2 seconds later I can mash the throttle and everything goes fine. I just can go full throttle right away.
    Seems like this may either be an issue with the low speed bypass holes or the high speed check valve not openeing quick enough.
    Maybe it is normal? what do you think?


  2. #2
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    Have you inspected/rebuilt the carbs?

    What is your pop off pressure?

    Are the adj screws set to factory spec for your model?

    Did you do any mods to the ski?

  3. #3
    SPEED KILLS, BUT YOU GET THERE QUICKER Keddano's Avatar
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    you should be able to nail it from the start and no bog.A plugged idle jet will cause a bog. Might be a god time to rebuild them.

  4. #4
    TopCop931's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by a_kraker99 View Post
    I was just wondering if I should be able to mash the throttle from idle without the ski bogging down...
    I can take off about half throttle and about 1 or 2 seconds later I can mash the throttle and everything goes fine. I just can go full throttle right away.
    Seems like this may either be an issue with the low speed bypass holes or the high speed check valve not openeing quick enough.
    Maybe it is normal? what do you think?
    I told you about those carbs. Now that you have ridden it without rebuilding them check your piston wash. If it is bogging down I would bet your going to see a lean condition on one or more of those pistons. You don't need to pull the heads off. If you have a borescope that would be ideal, but if not just get yourself a small led penlight and look down the spark plug holes. You will have to bring each one down to bottom dead center to check them that way. (I got that tip form xlint. It works great when I don't have my scope handy or don't feel like taking my laptop outside.)

    If you are already seeing problems like this and keep running it you will have more than piston burn down. You will burn a hole in your pocket.

  5. #5
    lol Topcop. I had every intention of rebuilding the carbs, but I come from a family that doesn't fix things unless they are broken. I give you permission to laugh at me when I come on here asking how to replace a piston. I guess it is part my fault too, it was a nice day and I couldn't wait to ride it.
    Anyways, if I see a lean condition in one or more cylinders should I assume it has something to do with the high speed jet or adjuster since the idle seems fine? What contributes most to piston wash? For example, if I am running lean at idle but my high speed side is running rich would the piston show a rich or lean condition?
    If I see a lean condition can I just back the adjuster screw out until it looks good or are you going to tell me that I need to rebuild the carbs again

  6. #6
    TopCop931's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by a_kraker99 View Post
    lol Topcop. I had every intention of rebuilding the carbs, but I come from a family that doesn't fix things unless they are broken. I give you permission to laugh at me when I come on here asking how to replace a piston. I guess it is part my fault too, it was a nice day and I couldn't wait to ride it.
    Anyways, if I see a lean condition in one or more cylinders should I assume it has something to do with the high speed jet or adjuster since the idle seems fine? What contributes most to piston wash? For example, if I am running lean at idle but my high speed side is running rich would the piston show a rich or lean condition?
    If I see a lean condition can I just back the adjuster screw out until it looks good or are you going to tell me that I need to rebuild the carbs again
    If you see a lean condition you are going to have to rebuild those carbs and go through the entire fuel system and replace everything that we have told you to do so far. There are guys burning pistons here that know what they are doing. These skis have problems with the fuel system and lean conditions. You have to stay on top of it all the time. At least if you know that you did everything correctly from the beginning it will be easier to narrow down your problem if you start to have a lean condition before it goes "Boom!" Worry about adjustments after you rebuild them. If they are gunked up and you start messing with the adjustments it may just make it worse. (That is just my advice, someone else here may say different.)

    My brother has been a mechanic for 29 years. He laughs his ass off every time he sees me with those plugs out checking that wash. Guess what? I don't give a sh*t. I am trying to catch a problem before it becomes a real problem.

    Dude, you have 14 year old machine that had problems when it left the factory. It has been sitting for 4 years. It doesn't take long to do it. Wouldn't you rather it be right and get plently of good rides instead of a couple of good ones and then have to sit around waiting for parts and then put in the time for a rebuild? Believe me. I am kicking myself in the ass right now because of what I neglected to do with my jet pump. It has cost me time and money that could have easily been avoided.

    I know how it is to want to just run it to see how it is (especially if you have easy access to the water) but if you hole one of those pistons you may never ride it again. If you don't want to take the time to do the carbs, think of how you are going to feel if you have to pull off a jug?

    Quote Originally Posted by xlint89 View Post
    Have you inspected/rebuilt the carbs?

    What is your pop off pressure?

    Are the adj screws set to factory spec for your model?

    Did you do any mods to the ski?
    Answer this man's questions and he will point you in the right direction. He is one of the guys here that will tell you exactly what you need to do. He will give it to you straight. Reading a lot of his old posts had me taking that carb rack off before I even got the rebuild kit. I will say it again, that my carbs actually looked good after sitting as long as it did but I wasn't going to chance it.

  7. #7
    Lol, same with my brother and dad. Something about those older mechanics that don't like preventative maintenance. I will check out the wash when I have some time. Just curious, do I need a rebuild kit for the carbs or can I re-use all the gaskets?

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by a_kraker99 View Post
    Lol, same with my brother and dad. Something about those older mechanics that don't like preventative maintenance. I will check out the wash when I have some time. Just curious, do I need a rebuild kit for the carbs or can I re-use all the gaskets?
    He's right. It's a 2-stroke... so if you get a lean condition... not only do you over heat the piston crowns... you aren't transporting oil to the engine internals.

    As far as the rebuild... normally... if they are running at all... you can just take things apart, clean, and re assemble. If you see a problem, then replace parts as needed.

    Along with cleaning the carbs... does your ski have gray or tan fuel lines? If it does... this is a good time to change them to regular black rubber fuel hoses. The gray Tempo hoses are for marine applications, but they don't like automotive fuels with alcohol. Over time, the inside turns into a green goo, and it plugs up the carbs.


    Anyway... I'm not going to preach, but running a 2-stroke ski with a mid flat spot can quickly go from an hour of maintenance to $1000 for a rebuild on the engine real quick.

  9. #9
    TopCop931's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by a_kraker99 View Post
    Lol, same with my brother and dad. Something about those older mechanics that don't like preventative maintenance. I will check out the wash when I have some time. Just curious, do I need a rebuild kit for the carbs or can I re-use all the gaskets?
    The kits I got came with the gaskets but I thought the needles, seats, and jets came with the kit. I don't remember how much I paid for each kit, about $40.00. The needles and seats are about $15.00 each carb and jets about $3.00. I am trying to find the receipt because I don't even remember where I ordered the kit from. I had orders in all over the place at the time. I was ordering stuff from the first site I could find that had what I needed. As I learned more from this site I found that there are easier ways to get these parts for better prices. The place I ordered from was in NJ though. I got the parts right away. There are also two different kits. The Genuine Mikuni kit and the WSM kit. WSM is a few bucks cheaper. You can get WSM jets, needles, and seats also.

    My brother did my carbs also. He rebuilt them while I was working on other parts of the ski. It didn't take him long to do it. (He got it done a lot faster than I could have.) He adjusted the settings as per the Clymer Manual and so far so good. The receipt is probably in his garage or in the garbage.

    Oh yeah, and a pop-off gauge was about $60.00. I read about some guys making them but that wasn't for me.

  10. #10
    johnsonmtz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by a_kraker99 View Post
    lol Topcop. I had every intention of rebuilding the carbs, but I come from a family that doesn't fix things unless they are broken.
    Preventative maintenance is the key to seeing those nice days and just taking the ski for a fun ride versus having problems, not starting right, bogging down, or worse......major engine failure.

    When you buy something like a PWC with an unknown history you really MUST run down a complete check list of items to make sure everything is up to snuff. Carburetors are the heart and soul of a 2-stroke engine. Any problems with this component can lead to catastrophic failure and end up costing you a bunch of money. In this regard it is very much worth your time and money to run through the carbs to make sure they are clean and that all components meet specs for your ski. Once you've done that and adjusted them properly you can then start doing some shake down rides and verify everything else is in good shape. This by no means is gaurantee that you won't have other problems, but by running through the carbs you have eliminated potential problems in the single most important device.

    You have to ask yourself; 'Would I rather pay $150 for 3 carb rebuild kits and spend an afternoon/evening going through them? Or, would I rather just randomly turn a few adjusters and hit the lake hoping I don't burn down a cylinder or trash a bearing on the bottom end costing me several hundreds of dollars and weeks of down time?'

    KJ

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