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  1. #1

    Any tips get the engine out

    am getting ready to pull my FZs engine out,,i think it throw a rod,,
    is there any special tools i need or just normal tools .

    Thanks


  2. #2

    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by silvertaws6 View Post
    am getting ready to pull my FZs engine out,,i think it throw a rod,,
    is there any special tools i need or just normal tools .

    Thanks
    From what I can remember, I don't think you need anything special, just metric sockets and wrenches.

    How did you throw a rod?

  3. #3
    SHOBiz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SHOdude View Post
    From what I can remember, I don't think you need anything special, just metric sockets and wrenches.

    How did you throw a rod?
    +1
    Nothing special

    In Summary

    • Place ski on a rack if you have one to lower the ski as much as possible (Makes pulling it out easier if using a come along)
    • Take pictures from several angles. The manual is good but a picture can help
    • Tape around hull edge of engine bay
    • Disconnect battery
    • Remove electronics board from bulkhead (behind motor)
    • Remove fuel line from intake fuel rail and wire it up high so it does not siphon out all over the place
    • Remove intake (I remove exhaust as well)
    • Remove Intercooler (Not sure if you have stock one)
    • Remove Supercharger (hard to clear front storage compartment if you do not)
    • Disconnect are water lines
    • Remove 8 bolts from 4 engine mounts
    • Lift motor gently froward and up. Forward to clear intermediate shaft and coupler.

  4. #4
    ruuning 18 psi ,,the weather was so hot and being happy wet throttle racing 5 ski full mods ,,still won the race

    the engine had more than 200hrs
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  5. #5
    i need advice guys

    which pistons to get ,, and what compression to run the new riva h1 wheel

  6. #6
    SHOBiz's Avatar
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    Sorry, that happened. Riva piston and rods are fine. No need to up compression for H1. If you up'd compression you would need even higher octane fuel

    Where are you getting a upper/lower block from or are you just welding if there was no head and cylinder damage? I'd suspect the oil pan is possibly cracked as well.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by SHOBiz View Post
    Sorry, that happened. Riva piston and rods are fine. No need to up compression for H1. If you up'd compression you would need even higher octane fuel

    Where are you getting a upper/lower block from or are you just welding if there was no head and cylinder damage? I'd suspect the oil pan is possibly cracked as well.

    i dont know where i will get the parts from but i think the dealer my friend work there and i might get good price ,,
    tom ill get to the oil pan but i think its cracked and the crank 2 ..

    i got the head out and its looked fine sending tom to get a fully ported and polished and the intake,throttle body as well
    Last edited by silvertaws6; 08-01-2010 at 03:55 PM. Reason: throttle

  8. #8
    SHOBiz's Avatar
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    Probably won't find a better pice that $700 something on the pistons/pins/rings/snaprings. May or may not get a better price on rods.

    The head not getting trashed is a silver lining at least

  9. #9
    Kelly_A's Avatar
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    you'll also want to mark your mount shims so you can get them back in the same locations when you reinstall.

  10. #10
    hitman's Avatar
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    I had my motor out in 3 hours with a dinner break in there at some point. Now putting it back in... that took significantly longer.

    Here are a few pointers I can think of off the top of my head.

    1. intake and exhaust must come off, and don't leave them laying in the hull. It's easier to pull the motor out and make sure everything clears with everything you can possibly get out of hull out.
    2. disconnect the fuel rail (with injectors) and all the connectors on that main wiring harness, and pull all that crap and drape it over the mid-wall, then take the bolts loose that hold on the entire electrical box, take the box up and over the mid wall as well and get it all out of the way. This will expose the coupler cover. Get that out too. You can get to the bolt that hols it on now with the electrical box out of the way
    3. don't forget the power and ground wires to the starter, on the exhaust side of the motor, underneath the exhaust manifold. They are easy to get once you have the entire exhaust manifold out of the hull.
    4. follow Kelly A's advise on the shims. When the motor come up, the shims will probably fall, so however you think you can do it, remember which shim goes on which motor mount.

    I'll post more if I think of it. If you run into trouble, just post up in here. I just did this, so remember it pretty vividly. SHObiz too I'm sure.

    Out of curiosity, what setup were you running when it blew?

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