Thread: AEM F/IC installed
08-02-2010, 03:28 AM #1
AEM F/IC installed
Here is just a startup video with my laptop connected. I wanted to make sure the A/F that the F/IC sees matches what my Dynotune gauge shows. This means I have both the analog outputs from my LC-1 set up correctly.
I went ahead and created a log file of an "on-trailer" startup. Here is what it looks like in the AEMlog software. Obviously I still need to play around with the sampling rate to get things to look a bit smoother but you get the idea.
Don't really pay attention to my A/F at idle. Unfortunately it is even richer when in the water, under load, with more back pressure because of water in the waterbox. I'm at about 10.0 to 10.5 at idle in the water. (That's factory Yamaha for ya...)
With this system I have FULL control over fueling. Tuning begins sometime this week and I will start by leaning it out to about 12.5 at idle, then to about 13.0-13.5 at all cruising RPMs, gently richen it up once in boost, up to 11.8 at WOT. Once I do that I'll know how much fuel it takes to start effecting A/F values, and how the ski responds to the changes.
After that, I'm dropping in a bigger boost wheel, retuning, and not looking back.
Humidity was bad early this morning on the river and then all of a sudden it's like someone hit the off switch. I could literally feel the difference on my skin. Hit 77.7 today, down river, with about a .3-.5 mph current. So ricer math says maybe 77.2 -77.4. Saw 9.8 pounds of boost, minus about .4 due to my Dynotune boost gauge being just slightly off. I was pretty impressed with that from the stock boost wheel. Oh what a difference the weather makes.
08-02-2010, 04:08 AM #2
Sounds like you're on your way to an optimal tune...done right. GPS numbers you get with that sho are truly impressive for a stock wheel. Your ski is faster than mine and I'm running a B1. I have my powershot running at what R&D recommended and haven't touched it mainly because I don't have the Dynotune A/F reader. That's the next very important step for me.
One question I have for you Hitman is how do you know what numbers are optimal for our set-ups? I mean I'm sure there is a safe range we all want to be in, and at specific times in the RPM range, but is there a 4-stroke standard or what? I know the importance of checking these numbers and just want to know what I should be doing and looking for once I get one.
Also I take that back, more than one question, if I do adjust with the powershot and get the safe numbers I need... do further adjustments ever need to be made so long as I don't touch the ski? Like due to climate, because once I get this set-up I have propped and good to go on RPM's I'm done messing with this thing. Everyone is like yea right!!! But I'm serious LOL.
08-02-2010, 04:28 AM #3
You gotta get an LC-1 though. I consider it a "must have" for anyone wanting to run more than stock boost. Installing the LC-1 isn't that easy for people who have never done wiring jobs before, or people who just hate doing wiring like I do. I will try a make a new thread with some Tommy Jordan tricks for installing the LC-1 tomorrow. It will make it much easier.
At 5 grand or slightly below, I'm at 12.5, and as soon as I go over 5k rpm, I'm at 11.8 or richer. So there is lots of room for improvement there, and once I'm done I will see a hell of a lot better fuel economy, espicially at cruising. I think the Motec guys were getting 25-30% better fuel economy if I remember correctly. And that is just from Motec maps being nice and cleaned up and not pig rich like the factory ECU map.
08-02-2010, 10:11 AM #4
Nice ...25-30% better economy that would be very cool indeed.Power to ya !!
08-02-2010, 10:24 AM #5
- Join Date
- Jun 2008
For the AEM did u make a harness adapter also will this be avaiable from them or u?
08-02-2010, 12:30 PM #6
08-03-2010, 12:29 AM #7
Boring stuff here, but just though I would keep up to date. Finished up a little dash wiring work tonight. Added an led rocker switch (red) to run the bilge, and another (blue) to activate the AEM F/IC's internal data logger. All I do is flip the switch to start the logging, and flip it back off to stop it. I needed it to be super easy to reach and use as I will be doing A LOT of logging.
I got the idea to run the bilge to a dash switch from Mr. Tommy Jordan. Come to find out, the factory bilge is set up to run continuously when there is power to our ignition. So that means the bilge is ALWAYS running. No need for all that. I cut the bilge wires part way up the wires (almost to the connector right below the intake manifold. Then wired it directly to the battery with a 10A inline water resistant fuse and a switch on the dash.
Then, since I just freed up the circuit that used to run the bilge, and is always on with the ignition, I wired my LC-1 + and - right up to the wires I just cut. So the LC-1 now utilizes the old bilge circuit with a quick connector right below the intake manifold. Worked out very well. Thank you for the idea Tommy!
Here is my dash. Nothing too fancy. Just some basic rocker switches from Oriley. This thing is starting to look more like a space ship every day with all the new gauges and switches. People will hardly leave me alone at the boat ramps around me. They want to know what ever damn one is for. lol
08-03-2010, 03:23 AM #8
Nice work Hitman it looks great. Plus thanks for the heads up on the LC-1 and bilge.
08-03-2010, 10:33 AM #9
But... What's wrong with the bilge running all the time--or more specifically, when and how do you know when to turn it on now? I only ask as I saw my buddy's FZR pissing out the back (bilge pisser) the other day and he didn't have a clue it was on. Stock bilge setup seems pretty fool-proof.
I should probably mention that he was burying the nose pretty good and that's why his bilge was pissing.
08-03-2010, 11:16 AM #10
The factory setup is pretty idiot proof but here is the benefits to having your bilge hard wired to the battery and switched at the dash.
1. Whenever you even think there may be water in the hull and don't feel like looking down it, just flip the switch on. If it's used to running ALL the time, it won't hurt to have it swithed on the entire time you're riding.
2. If you ever get stranded out with water in your hull, you can just flip the switch without having someone sit on the ski and have to tap the starter every 30 seconds. This is espicially annoying if you ever need a tow back to shore. Just fip the switch and get off the ski.
3. With the bilge always being on, you can't see how much water you're getting in your hull after a normal ride. You may just want to know so you can decide if you want to try and track down the leak.
4. Not running the bilge all the time will extend the life of it, even though I think they can run like 500 hous or so.
5. And my number one reason for hardwiring it to the battery is, it opens up the switched 12V circuit it was on to be used by the LC-1 and now you don't have to run a relay for it.
Last edited by hitman; 08-09-2010 at 05:07 PM.
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