Emergency Waterline Repair Kit
Parts List:
1. 1 x Piece of NEW 1/2 INCH PWC WATERLINE Six to 12 Inch section
2. 2 x 1/2 Inch Barb x Barb Splicer, Brass
3. 4 x Stainless Screw type clamp hose fasteners (optional 4 zip ties med-long length)
4. 1 x NEW Razor Blade
5. 1 x Plastic zip-lock bag
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From experience I can tell you if you plan to own your ski for more than a couple years you WILL be replacing or repairing a waterline on your 12F/15F/Ultra at some point. I have had hoses come loose and flood my ski, and I have had complete 3 inch blowout in a hose just a few weeks ago which left me towing one of my skis back to the marina. 2 weeks later I had a pinhole leak in the underside of the coupler area hose, I had this kit in a drybag in my ski and was able to finish the day out. It’s worth the 10 – 15 dollars needed to put it together; the only thing you will need to get from the boat/pwc store is the piece of waterline.
Putting it together is easy, once you have piece of 1/2 waterline. Everything else I was able to get from the hardware store (Lowes is closest to me so that’s where my stuff came from). When you buy the 2 brass 1/2 inch Barb x Barb splicers, make sure they are 1/2 IN INNER DIAMETER, they will also have something similar to them and they will be labeled 1/2 inch but they are for OUTER DIAMETER. The “Watts A-380” you see in the blue/white bags are for sure the right part, and they were $2.25 each. These are very important so make sure it’s the right splicer first, take the hose with you if you’re unsure. The 4 round metal screw type hose clamps can be found just about anywhere, you can get a whole box of assorted sizes for 5 bucks at Harbor Freight. As an option if you’re really tight on space or you want to fit this in your under-seat repair kit you can use the 4 black heavy-duty zip tie fasteners in place of t he metal claps but I would only recommend this for a short slower ride back to the marina/ramp and not to ride for the rest of the day. With the clamps in place you should be good to go but it is NOT PERMANENT! Fix that hose as soon as you get in, and if that one has split your probably ready to change them ALL! All that is left is a NEW razor blade with the paper still on the blade. A new razor will slice right through any 1/2 waterline with ease and will make a nice even straight cut if your careful. A box of them is only a couple bucks so throw it away if used and put a new one back in when the repair comes off. Store the clamps, razor and barbs in the zip lock bag, the piece of hose (and zip ties if you opt for them) can be put in the under-seat bag or repair kit box/bag as they are, there pretty waterproof already (Picture 1, Picture4).
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The first emergency repair scenario is where the hose splits or burst close to the end of the hose. In this case cut the hose to match the full length of your spare hose piece, so if your emergency hose is 10 inches just cut 10 inches off the hose on the end with the damage. Don’t try to cut the repair piece shorter as it will just be easier to make as little cutting as possible with a razor in your ski, the last thing you want to do is nick another hose! Once the cut is made in the damaged hose, insert one of the barb splicers into the cut and the other end of the barb into your emergency piece. Slide 2 clamps/zip-ties over the hose and tighten one over each side of the barb joint. Use the clamp that came off the stock damaged hose to reattach the newly attached piece to the fitting (Picture 2).
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The second emergency repair scenario is where you have a burst mid way or one of the longer hoses where the damage is further along than the length of the emergency piece you brought. In this case you need to CUT OUT the section of the hose with the damage leaving the stock hose clamped at both terminating ends. When you cut this time leave a couple inches for wiggle room, if your emergency piece is 10 inches, cut 8 inches out of the damaged hose where the actual damage is. You might also want to leave a couple inches if the damage is where the stock rubbery type hoses make a 90 degree bend. Aftermarket hose, even the best synflex will kink rather than make a tight bend, you need to curve these hoses and this might require a little more hose, you can always cut more off, you CANT put more on! (Picture 3).
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Well this should cover almost all hose repairs short of sucking debris and melting up a large section of hose. I keep a decent amount of hose at my truck or base camp in a gear bag for those times, you can usually get a bud or passer by to get you back. I hope this information helps someone avoid some of the swamping I have enjoyed so much in the past decade. Comments and suggestions are encouraged.
Cerebral – August 2010