Thread: Oily/Foul plugs and white smoke
08-03-2010, 10:42 PM #1
- Join Date
- Jul 2010
- Raleigh, NC
Oily/Foul plugs and white smoke
Bought a 96 sl 700 a little over a week ago and have had it out twice. Seems to run "okay," but trying to look at a few things to tune it up a bit.
Last time I had it out, it seemed to generate a more than usual amount of white smoke when starting out. We were pulling a tube, so the extra drag/weight might have been a factor.
I've ordered some parts for it, plugs, flush kit, filters, float, but not here yet. Fuel lines have been replaced, though previous owner who had it a year seems to have just run it and not done any maintenance. He says he had no problems but was a kid and probably more interested in playing than working.
Tonight, in preparation of putting in those new parts, I took off the air intake cover and washed/rinsed the air element. Inside one of the carbs seemed to be a white gooey like substance. The plugs had a little rust around the bolt and were extremely wet and oily. Cleaned them off for now and put them back in. Also noticed inside the hull still had quite a bit of water in it, even condensation on top of the engine. Is this normal? I sprayed down the inside with simple green and rinsed it out a bit, but there is still some water on bottom of hull.
Could the plugs have fouled from when we were starting off while pulling the tube when the white smoke appeared? I'm gonna look into the setting for the high/low speed screw, just ran out of daylight tonight. Could these settings have caused the excessive white smoke and fouling of the plugs if wrong?
Also, can I put in a MFD in this model? I'd like a few more readings than just fuel gauge. I have no idea what RPMs or speed I'm going.
I've read many, many posts and online articles, but I'm not a mechanic by no means, just really good at taking things apart.
08-03-2010, 11:29 PM #2
08-04-2010, 12:56 AM #3
Welcome to Green Hulk !
I have a couple of 96 SL700's,they are a bunch of fun.
Was it the back carb that had the white stuff in it ? I'm thinking there is'nt a cover over the driveshaft coupler. That would allow water to spray towards the carbs.
You do need to find out why it is milky,that's not good. Pulling a rider should not make any difference when it is in good running shape. Pulling a skier in Illinois is against the law, with a 2 seater.
Yes,you can add a MFD to your 700. I have both types on my 700's.Polaris sold a "kit" with everything you need included,might be hard to find one.If you are really interested I can explane what you need after the engine is working right.
08-04-2010, 11:40 AM #4
- Join Date
- Jul 2010
- Raleigh, NC
Thanks guys for the responses. To answer some questions, this is not premixed and oil tank has been full. I haven't added any and haven't seen the level drop either. The gooey white stuff is in the back carb, and I did wipe out what was in there with shop towels. Good idea to spray everything down with wd-40 and leave the seat off. I have to get a cover and probably can do that once I get one. Right now I just have a tarp.
I'll look into checking the pistons, but not sure how to "bump the motor" to do this. When you mentioned putting oil down the carbs, is this only when fogging for long-term storage? I read to put the oil down the spark plug holes and the hole on the air intake cover.
After rinsing with water, I tipped the trailer till it hit the ground but still is some water in some places, figure it will evaporate if I keep the seat off and there's air flow. I'm not sure what the driveshaft cover is, but I've downloaded several manuals and will check that and the high/low speed screw settings today.
The thing starts right up and seems to run good when only one rider, just noticed the extra white smoke with two people or towing. Only got like a month or so left to ride, so I'd like to enjoy it some more before I pull the carbs to rebuild and tear it apart even more. I'm gonna pick up a compression gauge too today and check that. This is my first PWC and not familar with all the terminology, but I'm learning as I'm going.
08-04-2010, 12:08 PM #5
That ski doesn't sound like it was maintained very well at all before you got it. Do you know how many hours were on it before you got it? I know you want to ride it but if it were me, and I am telling you from experience, I would go through every inch of it and do what needs to be done before I dropped it in the water again except for adjustments. There shouldn't be any water in the hull so that is just one of several issues you need to address right away. The sleeve on my through-hull bearing came loose three weeks ago because it was not fastened properly and I took on a good deal of water. I got it in just in time before I experienced water damage to my motor. If you have a leak and don't identify where water is coming in from right away you could be out there and sink the thing within a minute if the source of the leak gets larger or blows.
Any excess water that is left in the bottom of the hull from flushing the ski or leakage can be removed quickly with a small shop-vac.
Post some pics if you can of the ski and what the carbs and plugs look like. There are guys here that will be able to tell you what to do right away just by looking at it.
08-04-2010, 01:49 PM #6
To bump the motor just hit the start button once quickly to move the piston to the desired position.
08-04-2010, 02:35 PM #7
How long have you run it? Only a few mins wont make it drop the level enough to see a difference..
that back carb is milky....Casey was saying it could be the cover is not on the driveshaft.
Thats the coupler cover that goes over the coupler that connects the drivetrain together, sometimes water gets in the hull and without that cover on the coupler the spinning kicks water up (its right behind the end of the motor). and blows water straight up into the pto carb.
Is your blue cover and snorkel on the tops of the carbs? or does it have flame aresstors on it? (those are individual covers for each carb.
08-04-2010, 10:45 PM #8
- Join Date
- Jul 2010
- Raleigh, NC
Just checked the oil level. I know it was full when I got it, and right now it's 1/8" above where the tank curves in in the front of the ski. There's probably 2" in the bottom portion or however deep it is. I haven't really run it that much. Been out twice, but maybe 2 - 3 hours total. Haven't filled the gas after the 2nd ride, but only used 2.5 gallons the first time. Previous owner told me he used a yamaha tc-w3 oil, and it looks green. I kinda wanted to let the oil get low so I could replace it with a synthetic since I really don't know what's in there now. I got a new oil filter on the way. I know there's lots of oil threads out there, but was gonna try to find an ISO-EGD, right? All the fuel lines have been replaced with marine grade lines.
The water that's left in the botton seems to be in areas where there's a "lip" in the hull itself, so it can't run down when ski it tilted.
Not sure what you mean by blue cover and snorkel on top of carbs. I took off the red intake cover and cleaned/rinsed the filter, the black plastic piece under the filter fits on top of the carbs and has rubber gasket like things that sit between it and the carbs.
Flush kit didn't come in mail, so I didn't start it tonight to check pistons or get around to adjusting the speed screws. I did put in a new fire extinguisher and put on a swivel jack stand though.
08-05-2010, 07:18 AM #9
yeah i meant to say the red cover n black base. you have a domestic 700 in there..the fugis have a blue cover and black base with a black snorkel on them..
the ridges stop a little water from getting to the rear of the ski. no biggie there
well sounds like the oil is getting used so ur ok there..if you feel funny about the existing oil in there, drain it and put your choice in there. only a few bucks and youll know exactly what you have then..peace of mind is priceless.
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