Results 1 to 9 of 9
  1. #1

    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Raleigh, NC
    Posts
    13

    Oily/Foul plugs and white smoke

    Hi there,

    Bought a 96 sl 700 a little over a week ago and have had it out twice. Seems to run "okay," but trying to look at a few things to tune it up a bit.

    Last time I had it out, it seemed to generate a more than usual amount of white smoke when starting out. We were pulling a tube, so the extra drag/weight might have been a factor.

    I've ordered some parts for it, plugs, flush kit, filters, float, but not here yet. Fuel lines have been replaced, though previous owner who had it a year seems to have just run it and not done any maintenance. He says he had no problems but was a kid and probably more interested in playing than working.

    Tonight, in preparation of putting in those new parts, I took off the air intake cover and washed/rinsed the air element. Inside one of the carbs seemed to be a white gooey like substance. The plugs had a little rust around the bolt and were extremely wet and oily. Cleaned them off for now and put them back in. Also noticed inside the hull still had quite a bit of water in it, even condensation on top of the engine. Is this normal? I sprayed down the inside with simple green and rinsed it out a bit, but there is still some water on bottom of hull.

    Could the plugs have fouled from when we were starting off while pulling the tube when the white smoke appeared? I'm gonna look into the setting for the high/low speed screw, just ran out of daylight tonight. Could these settings have caused the excessive white smoke and fouling of the plugs if wrong?

    Also, can I put in a MFD in this model? I'd like a few more readings than just fuel gauge. I have no idea what RPMs or speed I'm going.

    I've read many, many posts and online articles, but I'm not a mechanic by no means, just really good at taking things apart.


  2. #2
    bowsniper's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    macomb,michigan
    Posts
    5,896
    +1
    6
    Quote Originally Posted by eilatan View Post
    Hi there,

    Bought a 96 sl 700 a little over a week ago and have had it out twice. Seems to run "okay," but trying to look at a few things to tune it up a bit.

    Last time I had it out, it seemed to generate a more than usual amount of white smoke when starting out. We were pulling a tube, so the extra drag/weight might have been a factor. Nope, thats normal for a 2-stroke to smoke. Maybe too much oil when mixed if its premixed. if not its ok.. could be rich too..pul the plugs and look down the cyl;inders and tell us what the tops of the pistons look like. use a small led flexible light from the dollar store. bump the motor till the piston is down in the bore, then look. should have clean spots on the pistons.

    that white goo is just water/oil,gas mix inside the bore. its ok.. just wipe it out of there.. that does that if you get water in the carbs or the carbs condesate water in there because of the velocity of the air going by,, it condensates the water from the air onto the cold carb,

    tip the ski up and open the drain plug,, it should have no water in the hull.. crack the seat before storage, that will keep the water off the pipe like you see. its a condensation thing foing on. thats all.. thats why the plugs were rusty too. happens to me too..

    I've ordered some parts for it, plugs, flush kit, filters, float, but not here yet. Fuel lines have been replaced, though previous owner who had it a year seems to have just run it and not done any maintenance. He says he had no problems but was a kid and probably more interested in playing than working.

    Tonight, in preparation of putting in those new parts, I took off the air intake cover and washed/rinsed the air element. Inside one of the carbs seemed to be a white gooey like substance. The plugs had a little rust around the bolt and were extremely wet and oily. Cleaned them off for now and put them back in. Also noticed inside the hull still had quite a bit of water in it, even condensation on top of the engine. Is this normal? I sprayed down the inside with simple green and rinsed it out a bit, but there is still some water on bottom of hull.

    use wd-40 or silicon spray after each ride to lube everything.. for long storage, use fogging oil in the can and spray the carbs good as you crank it.. you want oil down on the bearings in the crank so it doesnt rust out down there..

    Could the plugs have fouled from when we were starting off while pulling the tube when the white smoke appeared? no. probably carb settings arent set right for tubing.. that would put an additional load on the engine.

    I'm gonna look into the setting for the high/low speed screw,

    look up your specs for the adjusters

    just ran out of daylight tonight. Could these settings have caused the excessive white smoke and fouling of the plugs if wrong?

    Also, can I put in a MFD in this model? I'd like a few more readings than just fuel gauge. I have no idea what RPMs or speed I'm going.

    I've read many, many posts and online articles, but I'm not a mechanic by no means, just really good at taking things apart.

    you can get a tach and install that.

  3. #3
    casey67's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Lemont,IL
    Posts
    2,570
    +1
    34
    Welcome to Green Hulk !

    I have a couple of 96 SL700's,they are a bunch of fun.

    Was it the back carb that had the white stuff in it ? I'm thinking there is'nt a cover over the driveshaft coupler. That would allow water to spray towards the carbs.
    You do need to find out why it is milky,that's not good. Pulling a rider should not make any difference when it is in good running shape. Pulling a skier in Illinois is against the law, with a 2 seater.

    Yes,you can add a MFD to your 700. I have both types on my 700's.Polaris sold a "kit" with everything you need included,might be hard to find one.If you are really interested I can explane what you need after the engine is working right.

  4. #4

    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Raleigh, NC
    Posts
    13
    Thanks guys for the responses. To answer some questions, this is not premixed and oil tank has been full. I haven't added any and haven't seen the level drop either. The gooey white stuff is in the back carb, and I did wipe out what was in there with shop towels. Good idea to spray everything down with wd-40 and leave the seat off. I have to get a cover and probably can do that once I get one. Right now I just have a tarp.


    I'll look into checking the pistons, but not sure how to "bump the motor" to do this. When you mentioned putting oil down the carbs, is this only when fogging for long-term storage? I read to put the oil down the spark plug holes and the hole on the air intake cover.

    After rinsing with water, I tipped the trailer till it hit the ground but still is some water in some places, figure it will evaporate if I keep the seat off and there's air flow. I'm not sure what the driveshaft cover is, but I've downloaded several manuals and will check that and the high/low speed screw settings today.

    The thing starts right up and seems to run good when only one rider, just noticed the extra white smoke with two people or towing. Only got like a month or so left to ride, so I'd like to enjoy it some more before I pull the carbs to rebuild and tear it apart even more. I'm gonna pick up a compression gauge too today and check that. This is my first PWC and not familar with all the terminology, but I'm learning as I'm going.

  5. #5
    TopCop931's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Nutley, NJ
    Posts
    520
    That ski doesn't sound like it was maintained very well at all before you got it. Do you know how many hours were on it before you got it? I know you want to ride it but if it were me, and I am telling you from experience, I would go through every inch of it and do what needs to be done before I dropped it in the water again except for adjustments. There shouldn't be any water in the hull so that is just one of several issues you need to address right away. The sleeve on my through-hull bearing came loose three weeks ago because it was not fastened properly and I took on a good deal of water. I got it in just in time before I experienced water damage to my motor. If you have a leak and don't identify where water is coming in from right away you could be out there and sink the thing within a minute if the source of the leak gets larger or blows.

    Any excess water that is left in the bottom of the hull from flushing the ski or leakage can be removed quickly with a small shop-vac.

    Post some pics if you can of the ski and what the carbs and plugs look like. There are guys here that will be able to tell you what to do right away just by looking at it.

  6. #6
    tweeder's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Kitimat B.C.
    Posts
    188
    To bump the motor just hit the start button once quickly to move the piston to the desired position.

  7. #7
    bowsniper's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    macomb,michigan
    Posts
    5,896
    +1
    6
    Quote Originally Posted by eilatan View Post
    Thanks guys for the responses. To answer some questions, this is not premixed and oil tank has been full. I haven't added any and haven't seen the level drop either. The gooey white stuff is in the back carb, and I did wipe out what was in there with shop towels. Good idea to spray everything down with wd-40 and leave the seat off. I have to get a cover and probably can do that once I get one. Right now I just have a tarp.

    ok its premix, its probably working fine.. check the oil lines for cracks , and being on with clamp that are snug to be sure. some guys check them everytime they go out to be sure. never hurts to look and check just to be safe.those are special lines(the small oil lines), 3 mm id and 7 mm od ("od and id " means Inner and outer diameter). they are thicker so they dont collapse.

    I'll look into checking the pistons, but not sure how to "bump the motor" to do this. When you mentioned putting oil down the carbs, is this only when fogging for long-term storage? I read to put the oil down the spark plug holes and the hole on the air intake cover.

    After rinsing with water, I tipped the trailer till it hit the ground but still is some water in some places, figure it will evaporate if I keep the seat off and there's air flow. I'm not sure what the driveshaft cover is, but I've downloaded several manuals and will check that and the high/low speed screw settings today.

    The thing starts right up and seems to run good when only one rider, just noticed the extra white smoke with two people or towing. Only got like a month or so left to ride, so I'd like to enjoy it some more before I pull the carbs to rebuild and tear it apart even more. I'm gonna pick up a compression gauge too today and check that. This is my first PWC and not familar with all the terminology, but I'm learning as I'm going.
    if you havent seen the oil drop .. that makes me wonder.. it takes about 3 tanks of gas for it to run dry of oil in the oil tank.. your ski would have burned down already if it wasnt getting oil.. figure it drops 1/3 tank of oil in 4 hours wide open throttle(wot).

    How long have you run it? Only a few mins wont make it drop the level enough to see a difference..

    that back carb is milky....Casey was saying it could be the cover is not on the driveshaft.

    Thats the coupler cover that goes over the coupler that connects the drivetrain together, sometimes water gets in the hull and without that cover on the coupler the spinning kicks water up (its right behind the end of the motor). and blows water straight up into the pto carb.

    Is your blue cover and snorkel on the tops of the carbs? or does it have flame aresstors on it? (those are individual covers for each carb.

  8. #8

    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Raleigh, NC
    Posts
    13
    Just checked the oil level. I know it was full when I got it, and right now it's 1/8" above where the tank curves in in the front of the ski. There's probably 2" in the bottom portion or however deep it is. I haven't really run it that much. Been out twice, but maybe 2 - 3 hours total. Haven't filled the gas after the 2nd ride, but only used 2.5 gallons the first time. Previous owner told me he used a yamaha tc-w3 oil, and it looks green. I kinda wanted to let the oil get low so I could replace it with a synthetic since I really don't know what's in there now. I got a new oil filter on the way. I know there's lots of oil threads out there, but was gonna try to find an ISO-EGD, right? All the fuel lines have been replaced with marine grade lines.

    The water that's left in the botton seems to be in areas where there's a "lip" in the hull itself, so it can't run down when ski it tilted.

    Not sure what you mean by blue cover and snorkel on top of carbs. I took off the red intake cover and cleaned/rinsed the filter, the black plastic piece under the filter fits on top of the carbs and has rubber gasket like things that sit between it and the carbs.


    Flush kit didn't come in mail, so I didn't start it tonight to check pistons or get around to adjusting the speed screws. I did put in a new fire extinguisher and put on a swivel jack stand though.

  9. #9
    bowsniper's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    macomb,michigan
    Posts
    5,896
    +1
    6
    yeah i meant to say the red cover n black base. you have a domestic 700 in there..the fugis have a blue cover and black base with a black snorkel on them..

    the ridges stop a little water from getting to the rear of the ski. no biggie there


    well sounds like the oil is getting used so ur ok there..if you feel funny about the existing oil in there, drain it and put your choice in there. only a few bucks and youll know exactly what you have then..peace of mind is priceless.

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. 95 polaris lossing power and fouled plugs
    By mogyver69 in forum Polaris Open Discussion
    Replies: 22
    Last Post: 07-25-2013, 07:27 PM
  2. 04 FX HO fouled plugs and overfilled oil
    By justincase in forum Yamaha PWC Performance (4-stroke)
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 08-28-2012, 12:34 PM
  3. WaveRaider 1100 Fouling plugs and how do I convert to premix??
    By RallyHawk in forum Yamaha Old School Skis
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 09-11-2010, 10:53 PM
  4. 02 f12 running rough and fouling plugs 1&4
    By fixmyhonda in forum Honda How To & FAQs
    Replies: 23
    Last Post: 03-17-2010, 12:49 PM
  5. 4tecs and fouled plugs
    By MPower in forum 4-Tec Performance
    Replies: 17
    Last Post: 06-02-2008, 08:10 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •