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  1. #1

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    Electrical Reset button keeps popping

    I have a 2001 Virage TX with 3 carburetors. I went to start the ski before taking it out (thank goodness) and it started very poorly and then ran for about 30 seconds and then died. I cranked it over for a about 20 seconds and no start. I let off the start button, waited about 30 seconds and pressed it again and absolutely nothing happened. No clicking, no MFI, Nada! I took a screw driver and jumped over the solenoid and the engine cranked over. I traced all of the wires from my start switch to the electrical box and didn't find any cuts or anything like it that might be causing a short. It was then that I noticed a reset button on my electrical box.
    Side note: I am not an electrical type person so please, be gentle. I will rebuild an engine in a minute but get nervous changing light bulbs....OK, only slightly kidding.
    Meanwhile, back at the ski...so I push the reset button and immediately hear the buzzing sound I have always heard after reattaching my battery, kinda like a small pump buzzing to life. I hit the start button and the engine cranked over for about two seconds and stopped. I hit the reset button again and it didn't reset. I waited a few seconds and pressed it again and I could feel it reset, like a breaker. Again, I hit the starter and it turned over for a second or two.
    So needless to say I have narrowed my problems down to the outside of the electrical box. Does anyone have any very simple advice for what I should do next, after of course disconnecting the battery and opening the electrical box. Please keep in mind that I am currently ignorant of the names and identidfication of the parts inside the electrical box. I have read enough posts to know that there is a coil, CDI, stator, circuit board, purple wire service recall, and a variety of other things but I would not be able to identify them from one or the other currently.
    Thanks for your help and your patience!!!


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Arrow Simple bypass test for failed LR-505 module (4010304, 4010648 )

    You definitely have an electrical short or failed electrical component.

    If you are hesitant to work on the electrical, you may want to find a friend who is comfortable with a multi-meter to help you.

    I would start the diagnostics by opening the electrical box and unplugging the LR-505 Start/Stop module (photos attached). Make sure the loose wire ends don't touch anything else.

    Note: Disconnect the battery negative cable at the battery while working inside the electrical box. Re-connect the battery only for testing. Make sure to keep cables, wires and hoses away from the drive shaft area.

    Insert the lanyard, hold down the bilge pump button on the handlebar (bilge pump should run), then short the solenoid heavy terminals to crank the engine.

    The engine should crank, start and continue running as long as the bilge button is held down. The Reset button should not pop out.

    If the engine now starts and runs as described without the LR-505 module, then the module probably needs replacing. The current part number for the LR-505 is 4010648
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    Last edited by K447; 08-10-2010 at 10:24 PM.

  3. #3

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    OK took out the LR 505 and while jumping the terminals on the solenoid the engine turned over great whether I was pushing the Bilge button or not. I didn't crank it long enough for my ski to start (very slow starting when cold) because my screwdriver was getting hot. Is this what it was supposed to do? The reset button did not kick out at any time though. I did press the bilge button and eld it while cranking over and didn't really notice any difference. Forgive my ignorance just wanting to make sure I tested correctly before I drop $150 on a new LR-505. That being said also, do you know any places to get them cheaper than partsland.com?

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bruce0429 View Post
    OK took out the LR 505 and while jumping the terminals on the solenoid the engine turned over great whether I was pushing the Bilge button or not.

    I didn't crank it long enough for my ski to start (very slow starting when cold) because my screwdriver was getting hot.

    Is this what it was supposed to do?

    The reset button did not kick out at any time though.

    I did press the bilge button and held it while cranking over and didn't really notice any difference.

    ...wanting to make sure I tested correctly before I drop $150 on a new LR-505.

    ...any places to get them cheaper than partsland.com?
    Well, if you use a firm hand on the screwdriver, it shouldn't get hot. Make sure the tool metal is clean, so it provides a solid metal to metal connect when you short the terminals. Very firm pressure minimizes sparking and heating.

    I think you have shown that the LR module is causing the short that pops the Reset button up, but you can actually start and run the engine for a few seconds to confirm.

    Prime the engine if necessary to get it to start, then do the bilge button + screwdriver thing to get it cranking. It should crank and start. Remove the screwdriver when it starts, and continue to hold the bilge button.

    When you release the bilge button, the engine should stop. And of course removing the lanyard will also stop the engine.

    Note: If you prime the engine before starting it, put the flame arrestor back on and install the bolts. Also monitor for fumes in the hull when using the tool on the solenoid to crank the engine.

    Fuel fumes + sparks = be careful. Wear eye protection.

    Have a look at the Parts Sources link from my signature. PartsPitStop is often less expensive that the other places, but not always.

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