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  1. #1
    Pole rider and couch speed freak!
    Join Date
    May 2010
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    Ribbon replacement.........my journal with tips and helpful hints :)

    Ok guys,

    I just completed this job, and boy was it a b&tch! I am a professional mechanic, and run a jetski shop part time, and this still kicked my butt!

    Here is a write up of what I learned, and would do differently next time. Hopefully this will save others some grief.

    NOTE:If you have a double trailer, working on the ski will make access VERY tricky and uncomfortable. (This was my situation) It is my opinion that a low single trailer or heavy duty shop stand would be the best choice for this.

    Your ski should be cold, and have been sitting for at least a couple hours before cracking loose the fuel rail. Open the fuel cap as well to relieve any tank pressure, and leave off until complete.

    -Remove the plastic engine cover and set aside. I also chose to remove the two brackets for this off the valve cover to allow easier access to other components.

    I chose to remove the fuel rail and harness for easier/quicker access to other components, and to avoid pulling/pushing/pinching wires while wrenching.

    -Remove fuel line from fuel rail, after verifying no pressure is present. Do this by pulling out the lock on the green fuel line plug, and then pulling the line forward. If you did not remove the fuel cap as instructed, you will notice fuel continually drips out of this line. If the fuel cap is off, you can slide this line up under the glove box out of the way with no leaks.

    -Remove fuel rail, with injectors in tact, and lay to the rear. You will need to remove the wire ties on each end of the intake to free up the wires. Unplug the white and green plugs from the front, the temp sensor (black) in the middle of the manifold, and the TPS at the main harness. Take out the three 12mm bolts holding the rail to the manifold. The rail will now lay nice in the rear. You also need to disconnect the coil plugs, and remove the cam position sensor to allow the harness to lay back. Although this sounds like alot, it only takes a couple minutes and makes bolt access much easier.

    -Loosen the top clamp connecting the intake tube to the intercooler. Loosen the bottom clamp connecting the intake tube to the throttle body.

    -Unbolt the intercooler by using a 14mm socket, and loosening the two bolts that go left to right across the ski, through the support bracket with grommets, into the cooler. Remove the inlet hose between the supercharger and intercooler. Once the two bolts are out, use a long 12" or so extension with a 14 mm socket and remove the 14mm nut on the bottom of the intercooler bracket. This nut is directly below the air inlet tube on the top of the cooler. Once loose, raise the intercooler off the stud and move forward out of the way. This will take some wiggling as the inlet tube will still be attached to the cooler and TB.

    -Now remove the inlet tube. There is a 12mm bolt at the bottom of the bend that must be removed to get this out. This tube MUST be removed in order to remove the two intake manifold support bracket bolts. Remove these next. They are 12mm and are located under the intake near each end.

    -Remove the 8 mm nut holding the dipstick tube to the intake.

    -Now remove the intake manifold nuts (2) and bolts (6) and remove intake.

    I chose to swap the ribbon on the bench. It made it very quick and simple to work with instead of standing on my head.

    -Remove the four throttle body nuts and remove throttle body.

    -Remove the four 6mm allen bolts holding the spacer plate to the manifold.

    -Remove ribbon and rubber seal. Install new unit carefully noting direction and following manufactures instructions.

    -Reassemble with blue loctite.

    -Install manifold back on ski, and torque to spec. Install the support bracket bolts now!

    -Now install the intake tube on the throttle body end. This is where having the cooler moved will save you hours! Install the 12mm tube support bolt, and install the clamp from the tube to the throttle body.

    -Now reinstall the cooler by dropping it over the stud and into the intake tube in one motion. Install your large 14mm nut now! As it is vertical, I lightly taped the acorn nut into the socket so it would not drop in the hull. You must tighten this one before you install the two intercooler bracket bolts, or you cant get to it! Tilt the cooler towards the rear, and install the two cooler bracket bolts. You will notice that when you line these up, the inlet tube rubber is perfectly aligned. Tighten all bolts and clamps at this time.

    -Install the hose between the cooler and supercharger and tighten clamps.

    -Now reinstall the fuel rail, injectors, connectors, coil plugs, cam sensor, and all other items you unplugged.

    -Check all connections. Once everything is double checked, start and test for leaks. Have a fire extinguisher handy. Observe all injectors and the fuel inlet and verify no leaks.

    If all is well, reinstall the engine cover and ride!

    I hope I didnt leave anything out. I fought that inlet tube a while, and once I moved the cooler, I was like "duh, should have done that an hour ago!"

    Ill test tomorrow. Also did the Riva exhaust and Air filter kit.

    Hope this helps!


  2. #2
    hitman's Avatar
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    I think this will help a lot of people attempting this for the first time.

  3. #3

    Join Date
    Oct 2007
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    The next time I do this @#$%^ mod I'm going to just undo the intake manifold and lift it out.
    I'll leave the "J" tube in place by loosening the clamp just below the throtle body, remove the two bracket bolts underneath and the other 8 on top going to the head, harness, fuel line.

    Big thanks to BigReidy for the experience.lol.

    PS. Thanks for the write Philip.

  4. #4
    Addicted Member 5001craig's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gunna View Post
    ...PS. Thanks for the write Philip.
    +1.

  5. #5
    hdlefler's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by philip clemmons View Post
    Ok guys,

    I just completed this job, and boy was it a b&tch! I am a professional mechanic, and run a jetski shop part time, and this still kicked my butt!

    Here is a write up of what I learned, and would do differently next time. Hopefully this will save others some grief.

    NOTE:If you have a double trailer, working on the ski will make access VERY tricky and uncomfortable. (This was my situation) It is my opinion that a low single trailer or heavy duty shop stand would be the best choice for this.

    Your ski should be cold, and have been sitting for at least a couple hours before cracking loose the fuel rail. Open the fuel cap as well to relieve any tank pressure, and leave off until complete.

    -Remove the plastic engine cover and set aside. I also chose to remove the two brackets for this off the valve cover to allow easier access to other components.

    I chose to remove the fuel rail and harness for easier/quicker access to other components, and to avoid pulling/pushing/pinching wires while wrenching.

    -Remove fuel line from fuel rail, after verifying no pressure is present. Do this by pulling out the lock on the green fuel line plug, and then pulling the line forward. If you did not remove the fuel cap as instructed, you will notice fuel continually drips out of this line. If the fuel cap is off, you can slide this line up under the glove box out of the way with no leaks.

    -Remove fuel rail, with injectors in tact, and lay to the rear. You will need to remove the wire ties on each end of the intake to free up the wires. Unplug the white and green plugs from the front, the temp sensor (black) in the middle of the manifold, and the TPS at the main harness. Take out the three 12mm bolts holding the rail to the manifold. The rail will now lay nice in the rear. You also need to disconnect the coil plugs, and remove the cam position sensor to allow the harness to lay back. Although this sounds like alot, it only takes a couple minutes and makes bolt access much easier.

    -Loosen the top clamp connecting the intake tube to the intercooler. Loosen the bottom clamp connecting the intake tube to the throttle body.

    -Unbolt the intercooler by using a 14mm socket, and loosening the two bolts that go left to right across the ski, through the support bracket with grommets, into the cooler. Remove the inlet hose between the supercharger and intercooler. Once the two bolts are out, use a long 12" or so extension with a 14 mm socket and remove the 14mm nut on the bottom of the intercooler bracket. This nut is directly below the air inlet tube on the top of the cooler. Once loose, raise the intercooler off the stud and move forward out of the way. This will take some wiggling as the inlet tube will still be attached to the cooler and TB.

    -Now remove the inlet tube. There is a 12mm bolt at the bottom of the bend that must be removed to get this out. This tube MUST be removed in order to remove the two intake manifold support bracket bolts. Remove these next. They are 12mm and are located under the intake near each end.

    -Remove the 8 mm nut holding the dipstick tube to the intake.

    -Now remove the intake manifold nuts (2) and bolts (6) and remove intake.

    I chose to swap the ribbon on the bench. It made it very quick and simple to work with instead of standing on my head.

    -Remove the four throttle body nuts and remove throttle body.

    -Remove the four 6mm allen bolts holding the spacer plate to the manifold.

    -Remove ribbon and rubber seal. Install new unit carefully noting direction and following manufactures instructions.

    -Reassemble with blue loctite.

    -Install manifold back on ski, and torque to spec. Install the support bracket bolts now!

    -Now install the intake tube on the throttle body end. This is where having the cooler moved will save you hours! Install the 12mm tube support bolt, and install the clamp from the tube to the throttle body.

    -Now reinstall the cooler by dropping it over the stud and into the intake tube in one motion. Install your large 14mm nut now! As it is vertical, I lightly taped the acorn nut into the socket so it would not drop in the hull. You must tighten this one before you install the two intercooler bracket bolts, or you cant get to it! Tilt the cooler towards the rear, and install the two cooler bracket bolts. You will notice that when you line these up, the inlet tube rubber is perfectly aligned. Tighten all bolts and clamps at this time.

    -Install the hose between the cooler and supercharger and tighten clamps.

    -Now reinstall the fuel rail, injectors, connectors, coil plugs, cam sensor, and all other items you unplugged.

    -Check all connections. Once everything is double checked, start and test for leaks. Have a fire extinguisher handy. Observe all injectors and the fuel inlet and verify no leaks.

    If all is well, reinstall the engine cover and ride!

    I hope I didnt leave anything out. I fought that inlet tube a while, and once I moved the cooler, I was like "duh, should have done that an hour ago!"

    Ill test tomorrow. Also did the Riva exhaust and Air filter kit.

    Hope this helps!
    Hey guys-
    Sorry but I just do not have the time to complete this project and broke down and paid a local shop $130.00 to complete it. I did the R&D grate and plan on doing the modded vx plate I bought from Jim. I plan on adding the Riva air filter set up since it only looks like a 30-45 minute job and this will complete the induction side of the beast. Thinking of modding the stock exhaust to avoid drone issues. The ski has done 67 mph (GPS) stock in 90 degree water and air temp, 3/4 tank, 10 hrs on the clock. Driver weighs 270 lbs.

  6. #6
    gmoeller's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hdlefler View Post
    Hey guys-
    Sorry but I just do not have the time to complete this project and broke down and paid a local shop $130.00 to complete it.
    I'll bet you got the quote/price for this before "the shop" started. Lucky you!

  7. #7
    lets race.... mikeFZR's Avatar
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    I just finished the manifold upgrade a few hours ago and I didnt think it was bad. Its tedious but nothing is actually hard to do. Lots of great tips in here, thanks for sharing.

  8. #8
    hdlefler's Avatar
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    I thought about that once they started working on that nightmare of a job. He told me it was not bad at all but I know I would have gone mad doing it with my limited time. Its done and now I need to install the riva filter upgrade and the modded vx plate. Can't wait to try it out.

  9. #9
    SHOBiz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikeFZR View Post
    I just finished the manifold upgrade a few hours ago and I didnt think it was bad. Its tedious but nothing is actually hard to do. Lots of great tips in here, thanks for sharing.

    It gets better with time and repetition. Although I still do not particularly look forward to it, removing the intake is nothing to me now..

  10. #10
    hdlefler's Avatar
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    You think a modded vx plate from Jim will help 0-60 time or just top end? Trying to get ready to drag race by budy with an 09 fzr with riva filter upgrade,ribbon removed, free flow exhaust w/ riva waterbox , R&D grate w/ seal. I have ribbon removed, will have riva filter upgrade, vx plate modded by jim, and R&D grade w/seal. Both driver weigh 275 lbs.

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