Results 1 to 5 of 5

Thread: rear exhaust

  1. #1

    rear exhaust

    Planning to upgrade my 2005 GTX Limited to the Riva Gen II IC. Any advice from GTX/RXT owners who have done the rear exhaust mod? Looks like a long reach to the back!

  2. #2
    mstennes's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    On the Columbia River above a Dam
    Quote Originally Posted by North Valley View Post
    Planning to upgrade my 2005 GTX Limited to the Riva Gen II IC. Any advice from GTX/RXT owners who have done the rear exhaust mod? Looks like a long reach to the back!
    I know, I have the parts, but that reach and lack of room has kept them in their shipping boxes. I'm wanting to rear exhaust and relocate the IC on my TX, after reinforcing the hull, I kinda burned out on further mods, other than a 4" Kana and sound supressor removal.

  3. #3

    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Branson, MO area
    For those trying to install a through the hull exhaust on an RXT or GTX. Especially with the XS IC installed.
    The first thing we did was remove the OPAS gear per instructions and the old stock exhaust outlet. We then drilled a shallow 1/8 hole partially into the center of the exhaust plug. We then ran a piece of scrap wire through the hole and pulled it up into the engine compartment. The plug was then attached to the wire with a small screw and washer. We then carefully pulled the plug into the outlet hole and slid the retaining ring down the wire while holding the plug in place and attached per instructions.
    For the rear exhaust outlet we drilled and tapped the retaining ring for (2) 8/32 screws at the 3 and 9 O’clock position. I then got the pilot hole drilled for the outlet and used my 2 ¾ hole saw to center the retaining ring. We then drilled the 2 1/8 holes in the hull and tapped them (just temporary) We then installed the ring on the outside with (2) 8/32 screws. Using the attached fitting we drilled the 4 mounting holes through the hull and then cut the 2 ¾ hole though the hull. Leaving the retaining ring on the outside, we then used a drum sander to open the hole up just enough to allow the through the hull fitting to go in. Then the retaining ring was taken off and everything cleaned up. The next step was to put 2 pieces of wire through the top 2 holes and pull them into the engine compartment. The retaining ring was then hooked up to the wire in the direction it would be installed and slowly pulled into place. . Silicone seal was then applied and the 8/32 holes in the hull were opened up and countersunk on the outside. Silicone was applied to the screws and the ring was attached. The 4 mounting bolts were test fit.
    We then made sure we could install the through the hull fitting with the J-Pipe installed and lined up. This was quite easy just spray glass cleaner on the hose and outlet and it slid right in.
    We pulled the water box and pipe put a new coupler on the J pipe with high temp silicone and installed the 2 clamps. The water box was reinstalled with the back clamp slid up the coupler and clocked so we could tighten it from the rear OPAS opening on the outside of the hull. The J pipe was installed tight fit (did not shorten it). But with the water box slid all the way back there was just enough room to get the J- pipe in. The J-Pipe was then snugly clamped to the exhaust manifold. We then went to the back and were able to align the coupler with the outlet hole in the hull. We sprayed glass cleaner liberally on the coupler and through the hull fitting put the gasket on and the fitting slid right into the coupler. We then went up front and torque the T bolt clamp on the J-pipe. Next we clamped the exhaust coupler to the water box and J pipe. Then using a long screw driver I was able to reach in and slide the rear clamp back on the coupler until it got to the bulb on the outlet pipe. At this point I could get a socket on an extension on the clamp I loosed it just enough to slide it into position. I then carefully snug up the clamp, rechecked it was in the proper position and tightened it. Doing It this way the Water box and or J-Pipe can be removed and reinstalled a lot easier because the inside retaining ring will always stay in place.

    This only applies to RTX’s and GTX’s where access to the rear of the hull is limited. We also used the Rude through the hull fitting instead of the RIVA due to availability.

  4. #4
    Banned User
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Reading PA
    I have done this mod on 2 RXTs now and all i can say i removed everything off the back of the motor that i could and just wedged my big fat ass into the ski while having someone run the screws into the ski and the backing plate, make sure to use a good amount of silicone gasket, i still have scars on my chest from the top of the motor where i was cut up from sliding in and out of it a few times.

  5. #5
    JimmyRXP's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Oberlin, Oh
    I climbed inside DCMAN4USN's rxt when we had the motor out. It was so much fun he posted it on you-tube.

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. Best sealant to stop leak on rear exhaust (riva)
    By RXPNJ in forum Sea Doo Open Discussion
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 05-13-2006, 03:41 PM
  2. Riva rear exhaust??
    By RXPNJ in forum 4-Tec Performance
    Replies: 24
    Last Post: 05-13-2006, 06:48 AM
  3. Installing Riva Power cooler and Rear Exhaust
    By RXPNJ in forum 4-Tec Performance
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 04-21-2006, 11:21 AM
  4. RXP rear exhaust quetion
    By sgaaap in forum 4-Tec Performance
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 01-26-2006, 07:40 AM
  5. riva rear exhaust
    By rxpblast in forum 4-Tec Performance
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 10-10-2005, 08:34 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts