08-11-2010, 01:44 PM #1
After Market Cooling Kits (Warning)
If your using a after market cooling kit your probably modded a bit. If so you need to replace two other OEM lines or you will pay the price of busting open your water lines and filling your boat up with water. This last weekend during the 5th Annual West Coast Freedom Ride, the water line that goes from the top of the square rectifier to your motor burst open. This was on Saturday. I replaced it with 1/2" I.D. Nylon Reinforced Hose from Ace Harware (225 PSI). On Sunday the line that goes into the rectifier from the exhaust burst open too. These boats are pushing way too much water to retain those OEM lines. This is not the first time I have heard of this happening from friends with SHO motors. Both times my boat filled with water and lost power and stopped. Luckly, I was with 40 other boats in my group and on the California Delta, which always has a shore line close by.
The OEM lines are real soft and not up to the task. The after market cooling kits should provide and recommend the replacement of these hoses. It is a $5.00 fix for the proper high pressure hoses and clamps.
In the picture you will see one of the hoses replaced (clear line) and the other one has RED RESCUE TAPE around it. It allowed me to idle back. Anything above an idle 3500 RPM would break it open again. Go and do likewise. If you don't...your a fool.
If I was in the ocean and did not have RESCUE TAPE or friends with me, my boat could have been in worse problems. And that Rescue Tape is some good stuff. After I replaced both lines...I was happy.
08-11-2010, 01:51 PM #2
This is also a good reason to wire up your bilge to a switch.
08-11-2010, 02:12 PM #3
I'd actually like to do stainless flex hoses one day...
(Maybe someone chould build a kit for doing that. Price shouldn't be too bad since there is no machining, just gathering parts.)
08-11-2010, 03:29 PM #4
i agree with the bilge, i was in the ocean today jumping 6ft waves and i ended up vertical of a wave to the point i was going to bail,,, i decided to hold on and half the ski submerged and popped back up with me still on,, i checked the reverse handle as i always do on big jumps and it was fine i jumped the following wave the same and popped out,,, i then noticed the ski felt heavy, i turned the ski round to see my rear seat was floating 20 yards away... had the bilge been wired to a switch i could have just flicked it on
08-11-2010, 04:25 PM #5
Riva has a kit coming to fix the bilge problem soon, I suggested a switch but don't know if the switch will make it into the production part?
08-11-2010, 04:31 PM #6
If you just grab some 18 gauge wire from Oriley, along with a rocker switch, and a waterproof inline fuse holder (use at least a 10A fuse), then you are good to go. Cut the wires on the bilge, leaving enough wire to run them directly to the battery. Then you can use the previous bilge circuit to power anything you want. I used it to power and ground my LC-1. This was another Tommy Jordan suggestion that worked very well for me.
What most don't realize is that the stock bilge is ALWAYS on while the engine is running. So if you are afraid you are getting water in your ski and don't want to check under the seat, just flip your switch on and let it run the whole time. It won't hurt it. That's what is was designed to do from the factory.
08-11-2010, 05:28 PM #7
- Join Date
- Sep 2007
- Gainesville, VA
08-11-2010, 08:56 PM #8
That is smart. It is a 5 minute job tops.
08-15-2010, 09:19 PM #9
like i told you in person, those lines will rupture, like mine did when i had the engine thermostat in, so i replaced the line that you had wrapped with rescue tape, which ruptered and the one that ruptered on you last weekend. AND REMOVED THE THERMOSTAT, which is not needed in the warm summer months in nor cal. unless you want to have alot of water pressure in the engine.
i will shut down the oem water supply line and the oil cooler line with ball valves, in the winter months instead of re installing the thermostat.
08-17-2010, 08:55 PM #10
Please splain to me why the bilge on a switch works better than one that's always on (and in working condition)?
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