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  1. #1

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    Tons of questions after rebuilt.

    Hi, to keep everyone up to date. I am a newbie and are rebuilding a 96 SL780. I am in the process of assemble the engine. should be done today. Below is my questions.
    1) on the menual is said for the first 10hrs use the oil ration 25:1. since I am rebuilding. do I have to do this first 10hrs breakin tim
    2) How do i get it started? I have a outboard engine that I squeeze the bulb to fill the fuel to the engine, but this jet ski have no bulb. how do i start it for the first time?
    3) I have about 10gallon of fuel when i take the jet ski apart, it is new with a mixed retio of 50:1 can I use this fuel by adding more oil to it?

    4) what eengine oil you use and where to get it? can different brand with the same grade be mixed together? can you give me a link to buy it online?

    5) I would like to hook the water hose to the engine water intake instate of water outlet manifold. can i do that so that if i forgot to shut off the water and the water will not get into the engine. or it make no different?


    thanks


  2. #2

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    Hi, to keep everyone up to date. I am a newbie and are rebuilding a 96 SL780. I am in the process of assemble the engine. should be done today. Below is my questions.
    1) on the menual is said for the first 10hrs use the oil ration 25:1. since I am rebuilding. do I have to do this first 10hrs breakin tim

    yes they do make specifice break in oil

    2) How do i get it started? I have a outboard engine that I squeeze the bulb to fill the fuel to the engine, but this jet ski have no bulb. how do i start it for the first time?

    The fuel pump is run off a pulse by the motor so you will have to crank it to start it just make sure u have above 10.5 volts while cranking or it will not start

    3) I have about 10gallon of fuel when i take the jet ski apart, it is new with a mixed retio of 50:1 can I use this fuel by adding more oil to it?

    Yes you can just add more 2 cycle to the gas to make it the specified ratio

    4) what eengine oil you use and where to get it? can different brand with the same grade be mixed together? can you give me a link to buy it online?

    I prefer amsoil intercepter if you go to amsoils website they will tell you the closest dealer to you

    5) I would like to hook the water hose to the engine water intake instate of water outlet manifold. can i do that so that if i forgot to shut off the water and the water will not get into the engine. or it make no different?

    i do not think it would make a difference but make sure you go: engine on, water on, water off, engine off.


    thanks

  3. #3
    bowsniper's Avatar
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    I would use 25/1. let it warm up good and then do a few short-150 foot runs, then let it cool by crusing slower about 1/2 throttle. then slow down and take off hard again for another 150 ft.. then let it cool down.. do that about 10 times.. That willl seat the new rings to the new bores. otherwise you can glaze a cylinder and it wont seal and youll loose compression.. the rule is.. let it cool between runs..dont go wot throttle forever or else youll blow a piston.


    ( i have no liability on you ski from my opinion! lol just so ya know.. but thats the best way I found on how to properly seat rings in a motor.) others may have other ideas on how to..

    How do you start it? put the lanyard key on the handlebars and slide the black clip into the stop button .

    then push the green start button on the handlebars or the start button on the dash.. if it wont start pretty quick, then pull the choke out till it starts.. that restricts your airflow to make it rich so the engine starts easier when cold.

    once it starts push in the choke if its not already... then let it warm up for 5 minites before you leave the dock or just go slow at idle to wherever your going for at least 5-8 before you start doing your breakin..

    let the engine warm completly.

  4. #4
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    FOR ANYONE READING THIS, DO NOT FOLLOW BOWSNIPER'S SUGGESTIONS ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

    Funny how he includes he's not liable for any damage to your ski by using his suggestions. Then don't post!!!!!!!!

    1. Are you using premix or the oil injection? (premix use 32:1 nonsynthetic oil for break in)

    2. Pour a little premix down the carb throats to help prime the hoses and not stress the starter with cranking for extended periods of time. NOTE: keep a fire extinguisher handy just in case of a fire

    3. If the fuel you have doesn't contain synthetic oil, then yes, you can use it. Add the same oil you previously mixed with the gas to equal the appropriate 32:1 ratio. (40:1 after the break in period is done for premix)

    4. Just use a good quality TWC 3 rated oil (nonsynthetic type) for break in. After that any TWC 3 rated oil can be used.

    5. Yes you can hook the water up to the water intake hose, but you still must turn the water on AFTER the engine is started, and shut it off BEFORE the engine.

    DO NOT run the engine on the hose for more than a minute or so. (unless the drive shaft is removed)

    DO NOT try to break in the engine on the garden hose. It must be ran in the water to properly seat your rings.

    DO NOT accelerate hard, or stress the engine until you have completed the ring break in

    Run the ski for around 5 mins with no more than 1/2 throttle. (vary throttle position. Do not hold it in 1 RPM range for the entire time)

    Let the engine completely cool.

    Run the engine for 10 mins working your way up to 3/4 throttle. (once again varying throttle position)

    Let the engine completely cool

    Run the engine for 15 mins with short WOT runs. (vary throttle position again)

    Let the engine cool completely.

    You should then be good to start riding it normally.

    Make sure to recheck your bolts are torqued to spec after your fist outing.

    Good luck.

  5. #5

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    ok, i am still kind of comfuse........ I am using synthetic oil as suggest by lots of member on this site. Now the engine is rebuilt and it is dry, so I have a choose of choose synthetic or nonsynthetic? Ofcause I would like to use TWC3 as I have a outboard that use the same oil and it is much cheaper then synthetic. but when I was rebuilting the engine, I use some synthetic for lube... can i still use the nonsynthetic?

    by the way, I am using premixed and i have the oil pump remove.

  6. #6
    bowsniper's Avatar
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    Do as you see fit. I cant see the engine and test it for leaks, carb jetting, improper carb rebuilding,reed installation, improper torquing . gapping the rings or any loose connections in the fuel system.. thats why i said that. I wouldnt use synthentics for break in, its too slippery and wont seal the rings as well as regular 2-stroke oil

    TWC3 is what I use running my slt. works fine. I aslo said use 25/1 to be on the SAFE side.

    Synthetics are fine after the break in period. Good Luck!

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by bowsniper View Post
    Do as you see fit. I cant see the engine and test it for leaks, carb jetting, improper carb rebuilding,reed installation, improper torquing . gapping the rings or any loose connections in the fuel system.. thats why i said that. I wouldnt use synthentics for break in, its too slippery and wont seal the rings as well as regular 2-stroke oil

    TWC3 is what I use running my slt. works fine. I aslo said use 25/1 to be on the SAFE side.

    Synthetics are fine after the break in period. Good Luck!
    Sorry, maybe my question is not clear. What i meant to ask is that, I already use synthetics as a lube while I rebuilt. So there is a little of the oil in the engine. Can I switch back to use TCW3 nonsynthentics oil?

    As for the rebuilt, thanks to helpful members here that give me alot of help. I think I did a good job of rebuilting.... well we would know when I fire it up

  8. #8
    bowsniper's Avatar
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    Yes u can. Thats ok to use it to put it together. thats not a lot in there. I was just trying to help you out. read a few engine how to's on the net from different sources, that will give you more insight on the break in procedure.. ya. vary the throttle so you dont keep it in 1 rpm zone.

    everyone has thier own oil they like to use// some would say dominator, others say klotz, others use valoline, so its really up to you what kind to use.

    there---- no disclaimer!.lol I hope she turns out perfect and your happy with your build! have ya done a compression test on it yet? they should be all the same. if they are low, you have issues with the rings possibly, the base nuts or head nuts are not on tight enough ,or something is warped or the head gasket/base gaskets are leaking. 120-125 is what your looking for. if its 90, you have issues.

    did you check the ring gap before you installed the rings? thats really important. you place them near the top of the cylinder bore and seat them 90 degrees to the bore and use a feeler gauge to determine the gap .

  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Synthetic oil for lubrication during engine assembly is fine.

    Non-synthetic oil during break-in is the recommendation. 32:1 oil ratio is plenty of oil for break in. You do want SOME friction between the rings and cylinder walls, that is what does the breaking in.

    TCW3 is simply an older oil testing method. TCW oil tests were originally designed and intended for 2-stroke pre-mixed outboard engines.

    TCW3 is also the minimum specification for Polaris PWC engines. There is a range of oil quality within the spectrum of TCW3 oils sold. For PWC engine break in, where you want some controlled wear and friction, your outboard TCW3 oil should be fine.

    Once you have completed break in, the synthetic oils are my preference.

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Synthetic oil for lubrication during engine assembly is fine.

    Non-synthetic oil during break-in is the recommendation. 32:1 oil ratio is plenty of oil for break in. You do want SOME friction between the rings and cylinder walls, that is what does the breaking in.

    TCW3 is simply an older oil testing method. TCW oil tests were originally designed and intended for 2-stroke pre-mixed outboard engines.

    TCW3 is also the minimum specification for Polaris PWC engines. There is a range of oil quality within the spectrum of TCW3 oils sold. For PWC engine break in, where you want some controlled wear and friction, your outboard TCW3 oil should be fine.

    Once you have completed break in, the synthetic oils are my preference.
    bowsniper, yes, the compression is all fine. it read 125 when it was dry when i just use a little oil in it, and then i test again puting half teaspoon of the oil and it read 145. on all two of then the aft cylinder read a little lower at 140. bbut it is all within range, I gap then ring at .012 the factory ask for .010-.022.

    ok K447, thanks for the input. so I am going to read it back to you as I understand it. I rebuilt my engine, so I need to break in for 10 hrs. I am going to use my TCW3 oil that I got from walmart and mixed it 32:1. After the break in period I am going use the last bit of the fuel and then change it to Synthetic oil Right?


    as for fuel what is better? 87,89,or 91?

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