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  1. #1

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    2001 VIRAGE TX no spark

    I have a 2001 Virage with no spark, I downloaded the manual and started reading. the first test I did was check continuity from the spark plug caps to the engine stud. The reisitance for the rear and middle cylinder were correct. The front cylinder gave me an open circuit. What does this mean? Is the coil bad? The manual just explains the test but not what failing the test means. My next question; can I unscrew the compresion bulk head fittings at the electrical inclosure and just pull the spark plug leads out of the coil? Then I could check the coil and the plug wire. The coil is labeled PVL what does that mean?

    Thanks for any help


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Welcome to the Hulk

    A single bad coil would not kill spark on all three cylinders.

    Number one, make sure the battery is strong. A weak battery will deliver no spark. While cranking, battery voltage must be over 10.6 volts (measured with a multi-meter). If not, buy a new battery.

    If battery is strong, hold down the bilge button. Bilge pump should run. Keep holding down the bilge button, and try starting the engine. If it starts, then the LR module is suspect.

    Look below for more helpful links.

  3. #3

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    The battery was the first thing I checked. It is fine. I even replaced it with a new battery to check it out. I thought since the three coils are all together in one there might be a problem. So can I assume that i have at least more than one problem. The coil for the first cylinder and possibly something else? I will try the bilge button tonight. What is an LR module?

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    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BCGUMP View Post
    ...What is an LR module?
    Comination Start/Stop control and voltage regulator module.

    There is a bypass test you can do for the Start/Stop module. I have posted about it recently in other threads (LR-505 I think is the one you have).

  5. #5

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    OK i tried the bilge pump button, held it down while cranking and i did not notice any change. I found the continuty problemon the front cylinder, it is a bad plug wire. But i still should have spark on the other cylinders. Any more suggestions? I am going to start checking the stator wires per the manual.

  6. #6

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    Per the manual I have started testing the stator. Using my ohm meter I started testing continuity for the wires going to the stator. everything checked out ok on the black wire. When I tapped into the Gray wire I got the following.
    Gray to Brown should be open - I have about 10K ohms
    Gray to Red should have open - I have 300 ohms
    Gray to Green should be open - I have 300 ohms
    Gary to Blue should be open - I have 325 ohms

    I am reading these at the pin conector going to the stator with the connecter disconected from the electrical box.

    Does this mean my stator is bad? How difficult is it to replace? do i need to re- time the motor after replacing?

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BCGUMP View Post
    Per the manual I have started testing the stator. Using my ohm meter I started testing continuity for the wires going to the stator. everything checked out ok on the black wire. When I tapped into the Gray wire I got the following.
    Gray to Brown should be open - I have about 10K ohms
    Gray to Red should have open - I have 300 ohms
    Gray to Green should be open - I have 300 ohms
    Gary to Blue should be open - I have 325 ohms


    I am reading these at the pin connector going to the stator with the connector disconnected from the electrical box...
    You sure those readings are ohms, not K-ohms?

    Reverse the meter probe polarity, and test again.

  8. #8

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    it is a cheep VOM meter but it has always worked well. i am reading 30 with the selector on Rx10. this is negative on the the gray. when I switch it to positive on the gray, they test out as open.

    I plan to do the trigger coil test next, just need to find a 9 volt battery.

  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BCGUMP View Post
    it is a cheep VOM meter but it has always worked well. i am reading 30 with the selector on Rx10. this is negative on the the gray. when I switch it to positive on the gray, they test out as open.

    I plan to do the trigger coil test next, just need to find a 9 volt battery.
    Polaris used a specific model of Fluke digital multi-meter for the ohm values shown in the service manual.

    Different brands and models of meter can show different ohm values when testing the electronic parts. Polarity of the meter probes can also affect the ohm readings on electronic parts.

    If the Hall Effect sensor tests show a clear and sudden drop in resistance as the crank is rotated past the trigger points, then the Hall Effect sensors are probably good.

    Coils should always show the correct ohm values, regardless of the meter used.

  10. #10

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    ok I did the trigger coil test with 9v battery connected to gray and brown. Then checked resistance from gray to green, red and blue. As i rotated the motor by hand the ristance stayed constant on all three colors, the reading was about 375 ohms and never changed. Is the stator bad or should i start checking other things?


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