08-13-2010, 05:38 PM #1
- Join Date
- Jul 2010
2000 kawasaki 1100 direct inj idle problem??
Hi Bill here first time posting , hope i am in the right section.. anyway i am looking to buy this ski 2000 kawaski 1100 3 seater it is very clean and barely used it is only showing about 70 hrs on display, problem is it does not want to idle it starts well rev`s but when you try to idle it down it stall`s or will run real ruff.. it almost sounds like it is bad gas ?? It has not been used at all this season and last year only a few weekends and fuel was left in it but treated with stabile I don`t know much about the injector`s if you can clean them or not curious if anybody else would know. Compression check was also good.. new plug`s ,new battery & wires look good..would like to surprise my daughter with this ski but unsure with the injection alway`s had older ski`s .. Any help ,advice .2cent`s would be great.. Thanks Bill
03-30-2011, 10:37 AM #2
- Join Date
- May 2008
- Elephant Butte New Mexico
look for another ski, you really don't want to get involved with a ski with an injection issue unless you are good on diagnostics. Likely an non idling di ski needs emm work. Expensive and sometimes it will show another issue, like a bad stator. In simple terms. A potential money pit
03-30-2011, 10:57 AM #3
- Join Date
- Jul 2007
- near Toronto, Canada
Until someone actually does the diagnostics and gets it sorted, it is hard to predict what it might cost to get it running well.
Repair could be as simple as replacing a $100 TPS sensor, or it could require repairs in excess of $1000. EMM repairs alone are circa $700, plus labor.
When they are running well, the Ficht DI 2-stroke engines provide good fuel economy and decent power.
When they are not running well, the diagnostic approach is quite different from a carburetor engine.
All the normal used PWC purchase checks still apply. Cylinder compression, hull condition, etc.
05-19-2011, 06:00 PM #4
- Join Date
- Oct 2010
I have a 2001 STX DI. We bought it new in 2002 I think. We have had only three problems and one recall. The recall was for the fuel tank vent.
1.The first problem about 5 years ago was that the through hull tunnel that the drive shaft exits the hull and enters the pump delaminated from the inside of the hull and sank the ski nearly instantly. This was an easy fix but required removing the engine to fix. It was done at the dealer and I think they charged us about $1K+ to fix it.
Now that I stopped taking the ski to the dealer and learned to work on it myself, I have found that I could have fixed it for about $35 over a weekend in the garage.
2. The carrier bearing (that seals the pump from the inside of the ski and holds the drive shaft bearings ) Rubber tore and the ski began to fill with water again. I had to remove the engine in my garage and replace the carrier bearing. I used a come-along to hoist the engine out of the ski. I attached the other end of the come-along to a large header that runs across the middle of my garage behind the sheetrock. This would have cost a fortune at the dealer but I did it in the garage on a Saturday and the part cost me about $100.
3. The EMM (engine Computer failed). This happened because I ran the ski on the trailer once for about 40 minutes with inadequate water flow through the flush system. I have since found out that you are not supposed to run it for more than a few minutes on the trailer when flushing anyway since the pump and carrier bearings cant be cooled from the water like when the ski is sitting in the water. I sent the EMM to DFI technologies in Orange Beach Alabama and they fixed it and returned it for about $600 after shipping. It took me about 20 minutes to remove and install it. It took forever for me to diagnose the problem but I did and now the ski is back in action. It looks and runs like it did when we bought it nearly 10 years ago.
Overall we really enjoy the ski and I like how well it runs, no choking or hard starts. Just reliable fun. I recommend the ski if you are willing to buy a shop manual and turn some wrenches your self and are mechanically inclined. The KAWASAKI shop manual will tell you how to trouble shoot the symptoms and fix it if you are mechanically inclined ad patient. If not and you don't want to be held hostage by a dealer at $110 an hour like over here, then stay the hell away from it.
Sorry for the rant
07-30-2011, 09:14 PM #5
- Join Date
- Jul 2011
Hello , I have the same thing happening to my 02 STx 1100 DI. Will not idle for about 10 minutes after riding then it works fine and the engine light goes away with Rhe flossing red warning light I have about 45 hours on my ski and this just started happening this season . I put in new plugs and new gas and it still happens . What did you find out about your situation ? Did you fix the problem ? Was it a tps idle sensor ? Just wondering , ant help would be nice .
08-04-2011, 05:38 PM #6
You need to hook up the ski to diganostic laptop and pull out any possible error codes from EMM. You can't just throw in new parts hoping to fix the problem. I bet more than likely the EMM got too hot and failed because of lack cooling.
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