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  1. #1

    Troubleshooting Virage TX problem

    Re: 2000 Virage TX

    For awhile now, when riding WOT for awhile, the RPMs would drop off
    and I would get a "ta ta ta ta". Wait a few seconds and go WOT again.

    Well, today was apparently the last day it wanted to do that, it's toast.
    It was hard to start. It had a hard time staying running. At one point
    it took a ton of throttle to barely move (low RPMs). There was at one
    point a pop and then it seemed to rev again, but it almost seemed like
    the engine wasn't connected smoothly with the driveshaft.

    On the trailer it starts, idles and stops on demand. It will idle, although
    it seems rougher than usual. I was thinking having no load being out of
    the water was the reason it would start and stop fine.

    On the trailer, in the water, it did another pop. I think it cut off, too.
    On the water I thought it sounded like a busted driveshaft but my wife
    thought it sounded like a backfire on the trailer. I'm not sure.

    I have the driveshaft removed. I will probably replace the bearing, but
    it looks fine -- it's in one piece, splines look good, no grooves occurring.
    So now I'm thinking it's the engine? I made a previous post asking if it's
    alright to run the engine w/o the driveshaft. That would tell me if it's an
    engine problem for sure or not, because the driveshaft can be taken out
    of the picture.

    It does sound like all 3 cylinders are firing. If it still doesn't seem to run
    right w/o the driveshaft, I'm thinking carbs or reeds? Both are 10 years
    old, so I wouldn't doubt that either, or both, could use repair.


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    The symptoms you describe are engine, not drive line.

    You can run the engine with the drive shaft removed, but of course there will be no water load for the engine to work against.

    Start with the basics, and work your way along.

    Check cylinder compression (throttle wide open, all spark plugs out).

    Running on the trailer, cylinders that are not firing will feel cool or cold, compared to the ones that are.

    You need to figure out whether the problem is mechanical (pistons, reeds), electrical (CDI, stator, coils, grounds) or carburetor (fuel system).

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Check cylinder compression
    Cylinder compressions were 135, 140 and 135. I think that's ok?

    Fired it up on the trailer and idled for 20-30 seconds. Sounds fine,
    so I'm confident all cylinders are firing. Got the hose out to run it
    longer with water, but it wouldn't start again. Cranks fine, with a
    vary occasional cough but no start. Smells of fuel, I think it flooded
    so I'm charging the battery and going to try again in the morning.

    Hard to stay running under load (on water) but fine on the trailer
    make me think carbs now, too.

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by thehemi View Post
    ...Fired it up on the trailer and idled for 20-30 seconds. Sounds fine,
    so I'm confident all cylinders are firing...
    Don't rely on the sound. Feel the cylinders for equal heating. A cold or cooler cylinder is not working the same as the others.

    Again, without load on the engine, it may not tell you much.

    Does this engine still have the original gray Tempo fuel lines installed?

    If yes, then you definitely want to replace those fuel lines, and rebuild/clean those carbs inside.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Does this engine still have the original gray Tempo fuel lines installed?

    If yes, then you definitely want to replace those fuel lines, and rebuild/clean those carbs inside.
    I don't recall seeing any gray fuel lines, but they're all factory.
    At 10 years it's probably time for a carb rebuild no matter what.

    Where's a good place to buy carb kits these days? And reeds?
    And what size carbs are in my 2000 Virage TX? Keihin 38mm?

    Thanks!

  6. #6
    Figures, now I've got a new problem. No spark. It worked yesterday
    on the trailer, but when I went to flush, no-go. Charged the battery
    overnight, it's strong, but no spark from the plugs. Going to try doing
    this bilge pump + start procedure to see what happens, I suppose that
    is a way to bypass the start/stop button in case it's gone bad?

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by thehemi View Post
    Figures, now I've got a new problem. No spark. It worked yesterday
    on the trailer, but when I went to flush, no-go. Charged the battery
    overnight, it's strong, but no spark from the plugs. Going to try doing
    this bilge pump + start procedure to see what happens, I suppose that
    is a way to bypass the start/stop button in case it's gone bad?
    Sadly, no, that didn't work either. No spark while bilge is running.
    I guess this means troubleshooting this problem just got complex.

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by thehemi View Post
    I don't recall seeing any gray fuel lines, but they're all factory.
    At 10 years it's probably time for a carb rebuild no matter what.

    Where's a good place to buy carb kits these days? And reeds?
    And what size carbs are in my 2000 Virage TX? Keihin 38mm?

    Thanks!
    Call John Zigler for carb rebuild kits. I think he sells both Mikuni and Keihin carb kits.

  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by thehemi View Post
    Figures, now I've got a new problem. No spark. It worked yesterday
    on the trailer, but when I went to flush, no-go. Charged the battery
    overnight, it's strong, but no spark from the plugs. Going to try doing
    this bilge pump + start procedure to see what happens, I suppose that
    is a way to bypass the start/stop button in case it's gone bad?
    Start by measuring the battery voltage with a multi-meter while cranking the engine. Voltage must stay above 10.6 volts while cranking, or no spark.

    Make sure the lanyard is in place

    Holding the bilge button down is a test for one failure mode of the LR module. If holding the button down makes the engine run, then the LR module is bad. If holding down the bilge button doesn't help, then LR module could still be bad.

    There is a bypass test for the LR-505 Start/Stop module, which I have posted about in other threads.

    The original LR-505 modules (4010304) used on the 2000 Virage TX are known to fail. Current replacement is 4010648.

  10. #10
    AWA Member 32DegH2O's Avatar
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    You should also test the electric stator using the test explained in the tech section. If good then it may be the CDI or the coil has gone bad. Just have to check one thing at a time and go down the list of items.

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