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  1. #1

    another rideplate question

    was looking at philips thread on the rideplate, and was wondering were people grinding on the front or the rear of the rideplate to get the right angle?he state to mach. the rear.


  2. #2
    Duke's Avatar
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    You need to machine the front and back to get proper step
    off shoe and get correct angle.

  3. #3
    One day at a time..... N8R's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by flipper2 View Post
    was looking at philips thread on the rideplate, and was wondering were people grinding on the front or the rear of the rideplate to get the right angle?he state to mach. the rear.
    just buy the Jims plate in the 4 sale section and save money and alot of time and aggrevation

  4. #4
    philip_gpr's Avatar
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    what I did was take some material off both the front and rear mounts (I actually took off more than I needed to but that is a different story)

    then you simply add shims to get the plate positioned where you want it

    I have found the front position is critical, if you have no step from the shoe to the plate you slow down and if the step is too big you slow down

    so I would suggest you do this in 2 steps
    1) set the front position to what I suggested and and then
    2) fine tune the amount of angle on the plate by shimming the rear mounts

    if you want you can set the plate upside down on a flat surface with the shims and then measure the angle - I expect you will find the sweet spot will be slightly less than 5 degrees

    I found even with a package J Plate I was able to fine tune it (and go faster) by shimming it (I shimmed the front down .025 in)

  5. #5
    r33pwrd's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by philip_gpr View Post
    I have found the front position is critical, if you have no step from the shoe to the plate you slow down and if the step is too big you slow down
    are you saying no step from the center or the sides?

  6. #6
    txgp1300r's Avatar
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    I have been machining my own on our big mill...it takes about 2 hours or better.(thats with a big bad ass mill)...go buy the jims plate , very easy , or if your like me and like to do it your self ,cut 125 off the rear pads and about 50 off the fronts for a start..grind in clearnce for the pump,and take off about .250 or so from the bottom of the pump. or just call jim and get it right the first time...every ski is differant so measure twice and cut once

  7. #7

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    Nater's right, save time and money and get Jim's ride plate.

  8. #8
    thanks for the help. i bought a ski and pull the rideplate only the front of the ride plate had grind marks on it. so i thought maybe the guy did it backwords.

  9. #9
    philip_gpr's Avatar
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    well ....

    If you are a do it yourself kind of person you don't need to spend $400++ on a rideplate.

    the 1st plate I ever modified I used a portable hand grinder - I think I paid something like $30 for the grinder

    I have progressed to using a local machine shop - I have found someone that does great work for a reasonable price


    If you want to buy a plate off the shelf that is ready to go there are several good choices including the J plate, Carl at IR who has been making fast plates for a long time and Kerry who will provide complete ski handling set-up instructions with every plate he sells.


    To answer the question asked on the plate mounting position I have been using, I describe it in detail in my Riva post (see blue ski)

  10. #10
    philip_gpr's Avatar
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    "cut 125 off the rear pads and about 50 off the fronts for a start."

    yes yes sounds good - you are about 2 months too late for me - I think I took off .150 front and rear - oops

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