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Thread: engine ice?

  1. #1

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    engine ice?

    anyone try engine ice in their 4-tec? i'm going to be doing my 10 hour service on my wake pro 215 and was thinking of switching to engine ice. when i switched to it in my atv the coolant temps dropped 10-15 degrees. i've read online where some think that engine ice actually absorbs less heat, which is why it has lower temps. i was thinking of hooking my aux-box w/ OT-2 (wireless signal to my iphone so i can see the temps while riding) up to my ski and monitor cylinder head temps before the engine ice change so i can actually see if the cylinder temps drop or raise. i can't do that on my atv, since it spends most of its time with the engine under water/mud, which totally throws off the engine temps. i couldn't even get reasonable exhaust temps on it. but before i spend $60 on engine ice, i figured i'd ask and see if anyone had any results from using it. i figure there might be an rpm increase or decrease that someone noticed if it works better or worse.


  2. #2
    Nothin' better than Doo'in it! BigDaddyRXP's Avatar
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    Why not just swap out the thermostat for a 160

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    Got Boost? psycho rxp's Avatar
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    Well, using a 160* thermostat keeps the engine from getting heat fade, which causes an rpm loss. Cooler temps help to keep maximum Rpms for a much longer time.

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    if regular coolant can't keep the temps down closer to 160 degrees, a 160 degree t-stat won't help. in the can-am atv's we just remove the t-stat. plus the ecu doesn't kick the fan on till like 210 degrees, which is WAY too high. just wondering if anyone has monitored the temps for longer periods of time.

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    Nothin' better than Doo'in it! BigDaddyRXP's Avatar
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    Your stock thermo will never cool your motor to 160 degrees, not even close... I don't care what kind of coolant you run!

    My ski holds 161-163 year round... but thats with a 160 thermo & a heat exchanger.

  6. #6
    Everthing louder than everything else! sHALlow's Avatar
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    not sure if it's compatible but i had good luck running purple ice in my caddy in florida summers. ran 10 degrees cooler and only about 15 doll hairs.

  7. #7
    Got Boost? psycho rxp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by got wake? View Post
    if regular coolant can't keep the temps down closer to 160 degrees, a 160 degree t-stat won't help. in the can-am atv's we just remove the t-stat. plus the ecu doesn't kick the fan on till like 210 degrees, which is WAY too high. just wondering if anyone has monitored the temps for longer periods of time.
    (Danny) on here did a big write up on temps, and how to drop them with heat exchangers. I am running a 30 plate heat exchanger, on mine, so I can run an aftermarket ride plate for better handling, and speeds. temps were actually lower than stock. These 4-tec engines need to keep their oil hot to keep from getting gas in the oil.

    Here's a link for temps

    http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/show...perature+probe

    and a few pages on gas in oil issue from being too cold running open loop cooling

    http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/show...perature+probe

  8. #8
    Eric Ocman's Avatar
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    Open loop with a Thermo or the heat exchanger and you are good! Some say to drill the restrictor washer out to 13.5 but I have not had a chance to monitor my engine temps WOT for a long run to see if I need to do it or not. 160 engine 220 Oil is supposedly ideal.

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    thanks for the links. anyone experiment with drilling out the t-stat to allow for more flow? or is it that they need less flow?

  10. #10
    Eric Ocman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by got wake? View Post
    thanks for the links. anyone experiment with drilling out the t-stat to allow for more flow? or is it that they need less flow?
    You mean the washer I just mentioned?? if So Ironhead and Vspec1 said they had to with the open loop kits because extended runs the motor reached 210 and that drilling it to 13.5 brought it back to 160.

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