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  1. #1

    Battery Drain? 2004 Genesis i

    I finally got my Genesis running correctly after 2 seasons of it not working. Ran fine on Saturday. Took it to Lake Michigan a week later and the battery has died. Installed a new battery, ran perfectly for two days. Sat in the barn for a week, went to take it to the Air and Water show in Chicago this last weekend and it wouldn't start. It's making a buzzing noise around the solenoid I tested battery voltage @ 13.2. Made a last minute trip to Kalamazoo to buy a new solenoid, install it in the parking lot and that's not the fix. I'm still getting a buzzing out of the solenoid. Won't even attempt to turn over. I've been so pissed off I haven't gone out to try anything else yet but I'm thinking that there may be some sort of battery drain going on? It was the original battery so it's 6 years old. It would always turn over the ski even when it wasn't running correctly. I've always used a tender when stored.

    Just seems odd that the ski didn't run right for two years but would always start now as soon as it's running correctly the original battery failed and now a new battery 2 weeks later is run down.

    Any suggestions? The biggest drain I would think is the bilge pump. I don't hear it running constantly and when I use the handlebar switch I can hear it turn on.

    How else can I check for a battery drain? Remove fuses?

    Thanks in advance.

    Jeff


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    13.2 volts tells me that the battery was still on the charger, or just recently disconnected.

    If you still have the original Black body solenoid in there, replace it with new solenoid. The original Black solenoids with the metal backing plate are known to fail.

    You can confirm the solenoid is bad by using a metal tool (screwdriver or pliers) to short the two heavy terminals of the solenoid. There will be sparks, so use a firm hand and make a solid connection between the posts. The engine should crank and start (if the lanyard is in place).

    A six year old battery is an old battery. I suggest buying a factory sealed AGM type battery. Long lasting (years), strong power, and vibration resistant. Odyssey PC625 or Deka ETX16LM are good choices.

  3. #3
    I checked the battery voltage again it reads 13.0V I checked the connections at both the battery and solenoid and they're good. I get 0 ohms between the negative battery terminal and engine block so I believe all the connections are good.

    I shorted the terminals on the solenoid and it did NOT start or even turn over. The only thing that happened was the gauge cluster went crazy. Red light flashed and the needles swept up and back.

    My solenoid has a brownish body.

    What should I try next?

    Thanks again!

    Jeff

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JJL1968 View Post
    I checked the battery voltage again it reads 13.0V I checked the connections at both the battery and solenoid and they're good.

    I get 0 ohms between the negative battery terminal and engine block so I believe all the connections are good.

    I shorted the terminals on the solenoid and it did NOT start or even turn over. The only thing that happened was the gauge cluster went crazy. Red light flashed and the needles swept up and back.

    My solenoid has a brownish body...
    Did you remove and clean/check the red positive battery cable at both ends?


    Did you hear a clunk from the starter motor?

    Did you see sparks when you shorted the solenoid studs?
    If yes, then I would suspect the starter motor is shorted.

    If no sparks (or very weak sparks), then I would suspect an electrical ground issue. Since you say the engine ground for the battery negative is solid, I would look at the electrical box grounds, especially the Black wire to the stator. That is the only ground link between the engine block and everything in the electrical box (including the MFI display).

    The MFI display 'reboot' suggests that the 12 volt power to the display collapsed when you shorted the solenoid terminals, then returned when you removed the solenoid short.

  5. #5
    yes the positive cable is tight and clean at both the battery end and the solenoid end. The negative cable is clean at the battery but I'm unable to follow it to where it mounts to the block. It appears to be somewhere under the engine.

    I had no sparks whatsoever when I shorted the solenoid posts. No sparks, no noise, no turnover. Just the display powering off and then back on.

    Where do I find the black wire to the stator that you mention so I can check it? Any other advice? I sure appreciate your help.

    Thanks

    Jeff

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    I think the negative cable mounts to the left rear side of the engine case, down fairly low on the left side (when looking forward from behind the engine).

    The bolt head on the side of the engine block may be hard to see if there are hoses in the way.
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  7. #7
    I took it back to the shop and they said the battery that I just bought is toast. Seems a little suspect that the old battery failed and then within 2 weeks a new one failed as well. Ground connections are all tight. I'm still leaning towards some sort of battery drain. Is there a way to test for this?

    Thanks again!

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JJL1968 View Post
    I took it back to the shop and they said the battery that I just bought is toast. Seems a little suspect that the old battery failed and then within 2 weeks a new one failed as well. Ground connections are all tight. I'm still leaning towards some sort of battery drain. Is there a way to test for this?

    Thanks again!
    First off, install a factory sealed AGM type battery. Odyssey PC625 or Deka ETX16LM are good choices. Much better than regular lead-acid batteries. No vent nipple, no leaks, stronger cranking, longer life, vibration resistant.

    You can check for current drain using an ammeter. Remove thin red wire from start solenoid, put the heavy wire and nut back on.

    Connect multi-meter in AMP mode between the thin red wire and the solenoid stud that leads to battery. Set meter to highest AMP range at first. There will be a current surge when you first connect the ammeter, then it should settle down to a lower current reading.

    When the MFI goes to sleep after five minutes of no activity, you should see the current drain drop to a few milliamps. If the bilge pump or something else is still drawing power, the current drain will be much higher.

    All of this is done without touching the Start button.

  9. #9
    When you say the MFI "goes to sleep" what does that mean exactly? I think mine is on all the time. Whenever I look at the ski the display shows fuel/oil levels, time and maybe direction. Is it supposed to go completely blank? Maybe this is what's drawing the power. I know the bilge isn't the draw as I removed the fuse to check that out.

    Thanks.

  10. #10
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JJL1968 View Post
    When you say the MFI "goes to sleep" what does that mean exactly? I think mine is on all the time.

    Whenever I look at the ski the display shows fuel/oil levels, time and maybe direction. Is it supposed to go completely blank? ...
    Clock is always visible.

    Click my signature links to find more details on the MFI

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