Thread: rear oil seal
08-20-2010, 02:23 PM #1
rear oil seal
making a new thread for opinions on this. see my rebuild thread for the whole story. i got everything reassembled on my top end rebuild on m gp1200r. i only did the pistons and up, i left the crank and oil seal alone. went to pressure test it with lowel hornings kit. the oil seal in the rear is the leak. it bleeds out within a minute to about 3 psi. you can start hearing it hiss at 6 or 7 pounds. no other leaks in the motor though, i torqued the head and jugs down in about 5 or 6 steps instead of 1 and then final.
i didnt take the crank case out, does that seal need to be replaced or as long as the top end isnt leaking its okay? when it got 6 or so pounds on it it pushed a little b it of oil out. and i tried rotating the crank a couple times to get it to stop and thats a no go. it gets better in some spots but still leaks. that seal cant be done with the motor and top end in the ski can it? the pulse lines i have capped off with just random bolts. and they dont seem to be leaking. the only leak i think is that oil seal. wd40 being sprayed on that confirms it.
opionions before i button it all up?
08-20-2010, 03:04 PM #2
Posted the same thing in your other build thread.
Bad news unfortunately...with that seal leaking like that, you will have to pull it apart and replace the seal. You'll end up burning up your rear cylinder if you don't get that leak fixed...best case, the engine will run inconsistently. Sorry...
08-20-2010, 06:27 PM #3
wfo says there's two rear seals. I was at work and had a hard time focusing on what he was saying but I think I got it. if I wanted to do all the seals I need 3 right. what else do I need to split the cases and reseal them. how much is ballpark on t and w a crank?
08-20-2010, 06:46 PM #4
you still need to find out if its leaking at the case or at the crank
may as well do all the crank seals if you are taking it apart, plus you will need some Threebond 1211 to seal the cases
your crank may be fine, but if you want to have it checked and have it trued/welded maybe send it to Crankworks... I have talked to Phil recently and he is correcting the problems he has had out in the shop in the past
08-20-2010, 10:50 PM #5
good i was curious about that (the crank works thing). sorry if i seemed in a daze when on the phone today wfo, i was at work and ignorning my manager barking orders. im probably going to do all 3. i go back to school on the 25th or so, so i wont be working on it till after then. its obvious what 3 i need right, and oem yamaha is the way to go? ill call crank works and see what the word is.
while i have you guys' attention my first round of actual mods i believe is going to be
Riva pump seal kit
shoe and plate brackets from an 04
Tube of marine tex and 5200
theres nothing else i need to be concerned about doing the crank case and all? i was gonna loosen the head and jug bolts so it wont hurt the new gaskets on there, but im missing nothing else to seal the case back up or anything?
08-21-2010, 02:13 PM #6
08-21-2010, 06:11 PM #7
for some reason when ive seen that pdf before i only saw the crank case up part of it. thats a great pdf.
so should i un torque the bolts on the heads and jugs to keep the new gaskets fresh? before i do that im gonna go try to see where its bubbling out of exactly
so 3bond is what seals the upper and lower part of the case together?
08-21-2010, 06:40 PM #8
08-22-2010, 05:52 PM #9
no one can tell which seal that is? i broke the head and base bolts loose a turn or so to take pressure off the new gaskets and washed it up. and put the cover on it. should be back at school by thursday
08-22-2010, 05:56 PM #10
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