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  1. #1

    Join Date
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    96 SL 700 won't start

    Hey all,

    Bought the ski some new parts and put them in recently, now it won't start. I've had it out on the lake 3 times with no problems. Noticed it didn't have a thermostat, so got one of those and new pop up valve & gasket. Also got new exhaust fitting screen & water inlet fitting. Put in new plugs, oil and fuel filters. New gas gauge is working great!

    Today went to start it with new flush kit and it won't turn over. Previous compression test shows 125-130 both cylinders. Both new plugs have spark. In my reading, saw posts about removing air from fuel lines, which is probably what I need to do since I put in the new filters, however, haven't found a post describing how to do this. Wasn't able to get that "fuel valve nut" off under the fuel valve knob to get to the check valve. The water separator red float is on the bottom, so I think that's okay. Oh, I also redid the high/low speed screws since they seemed a bit "open" to me.

    Oh, is it okay to leave the air intake cover off when trying to start? I wanted to see if I could see fuel spitting down and don't see any.

    Can anyone describe how to "bleed" these lines or point me in the direction of something I'm missing?

    Thanks.

    Natalie


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by eilatan View Post
    Hey all,

    Bought the ski some new parts and put them in recently, now it won't start. I've had it out on the lake 3 times with no problems.

    Noticed it didn't have a thermostat, so got one of those and new pop up valve & gasket. Also got new exhaust fitting screen & water inlet fitting.

    Put in new plugs, oil and fuel filters. New gas gauge is working great!

    Today went to start it with new flush kit and it won't turn over.

    Previous compression test shows 125-130 both cylinders. Both new plugs have spark.

    In my reading, saw posts about removing air from fuel lines, which is probably what I need to do since I put in the new filters, however, haven't found a post describing how to do this.

    Wasn't able to get that "fuel valve nut" off under the fuel valve knob to get to the check valve. The water separator red float is on the bottom, so I think that's okay.

    Oh, I also redid the high/low speed screws since they seemed a bit "open" to me.

    Oh, is it okay to leave the air intake cover off when trying to start? I wanted to see if I could see fuel spitting down and don't see any.

    Can anyone describe how to "bleed" these lines or point me in the direction of something I'm missing?

    Thanks.

    Natalie
    Sounds like you touched or changed a lot of things all at the same time.

    Does it turn over (engine cranks) when you press Start?

    What exactly did you do to the carb screws?
    They are supposed to be set to a certain number of turns 'open' from a lightly closed position.

    If you remove the spark plugs and crank the engine, does water come spraying out?

    The correct use of the reverse flush kit is;
    Start engine, THEN turn water on
    Turn water off, THEN stop engine

    Normally the fuel pump will clear the air from the fuel lines with a short amount of cranking.

    Did you change the fuel lines?
    Are they the original gray Tempo fuel lines?

  3. #3

    Join Date
    Jul 2010
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    Raleigh, NC
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    Engine turns over, no water coming out of cylinders when cranking. Spark on plugs when cranking by grounding to metal, did this one at a time of course. Flush water not on, waiting for it to turn over first. All fuel lines replaced by previous, previous owner.

    For resetting high/low speed, I closed both and reopened to the settings in the manual. Did this last weekend, but from memory it was low at 5/8 and high 1 1/2 turns. I set idle screw low and was gonna adjust as needed once it started. I set it low cause the old plugs were fouled and wanted to slow down the amount of fuel going in. It also seems to blow out a lot of white smoke, but as some have said, this is normal. I just haven't had a ski before and don't know what to expect. Read somewhere that not having a working thermostat (and this one didn't even have one) can cause fouled plugs, so maybe that was the cause.

  4. #4
    la90043's Avatar
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    get a spray bottle and spray fuel dow each carb. if it starts then you know its a fuel delivery problem.

    you can add some 2 stroke oil to the bottle also if you wish.

    also sometimes the fuel system needs some priming of the fuel lines and then it'll start.
    incorrect idle adjustment with the low speed adjusters incorrect will make it hard to start. spray fuel down the carbs and i bet it'll start. and yes keep the spark arrestor screen off.

  5. #5

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    Well, got it to start. Probably just needed time to clear out the air. I have a can of that stuff you blow in the carbs, but didn't think of using it. I've never had the seat off while it was running and it sure was loud. My tow vehicle is in the shop so might be a week or two before I get the ski back in the water. Hope it stays warm here for a while longer so I can still ride it a bit before it's time to store it.

    Thanks all for the suggestions. My next project is looking to see if the ignition has been updated and if I can add a MFD to this model.

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by eilatan View Post
    ...I have a can of that stuff you blow in the carbs, but didn't think of using it....
    Do not use starting fluid (Ether) on 2-stroke engines.

    Prime with gasoline or gas+oil mix, not starting fluid.

  7. #7

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    Gotcha. Sure came in handy when I was trying to start up a motorcycle I'm trying to sell though.

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