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  1. #1
    GPKiwi's Avatar
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    Yamaha's trim system.

    Just wondering if anyone has changed the incermints on the trim system to be smaller, this is on a old GP a relic to most. I think the range it moves is too far from one set position too other. I am thing of drilling other hole on the nozzle lever as too make a bracket on the inside cam wheel would be more work (for the moment) to get it to move in smaller incermints. At times it just feels like when you change the trim angle to other it feels too much, so would something inbetween mayby better?

    Any idea's or is this a worthless exercise
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  2. #2
    r33pwrd's Avatar
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    If I understand what you are saying then making the arm on the nozzle "shorter" would increase the trim angle if you made the arm longer you would get less movement of the nozzle.

  3. #3
    DAGO RACING CREW 97GPSLEEPER's Avatar
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    I guess it is worth experimenting with if it is bothering you. When the Yamaha trim first came out, it only had three increments, down, nuetral, and up.

    If it were me, I would spend time filling in the bolt holes and experimenting with the wolf aat cone. Good luck and keep me posted.

  4. #4
    GPKiwi's Avatar
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    r33pwrd ahhh yes I am going the wrong way, wanted less movement, so means new bracket on the cam wheel, shorter.

    97sleeper, Hmmm I like the sound of your ski with the R&D ride plate with the mod. Does Bill and J-me run R&D plates, do you know? I am getting up to speed with 62.3 to 62.8's water smoother but this is the same stage it will start propoising and it's buggering me off so the day's when I can't get out to ride I start thinking of fiddling with things...
    I am still using the same shuttle size. Is your AAT is not on your pump yet is it?

    Hey Bill, Trims tabs are been made now!
    Last edited by GPKiwi; 10-18-2006 at 09:15 PM.

  5. #5
    ....back from the dead.... J-ME's Avatar
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    I am not a big fan of a "trimmable" steering nozzle. On my last GP I had it fixed in a neutral position. On Jumper it was fixed as well, however I added a drop nozzle for holeshots.

    I ran a R&D ride plate on my last GP. It was a great plate for smooth water esp. when combined with a 5 degree exit nozzle. Under the right conditions (which were RARE) I hit an unverified 66+. The rest of time the 'ski was a pain to ride.

    I never will run anything but a 0 degree exit nozzle on a GP from now on.

    The Riva plate is a good all around plate, but it is cast like crap. I would like to get another R&D plate to experiment with since I run my battery in the front now.

  6. #6
    GPKiwi's Avatar
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    Have to agree J-me, casting is shocking on the Riva plate for a aftermarket performance manufacturer. 90% of my riding is in neutral or one trim down (bow up one) That's why I would like some setting inbetween which may be better... I don't know.

    Thinking of changing the plate as with the longer plate gives better leverage to control porposing and keeping the the COG more forward. (would be better) I am thinking of placing a brick in the front compartment next time I go out!

  7. #7
    DAGO RACING CREW 97GPSLEEPER's Avatar
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    I do not have a aat cone yet. I am not sure if I am going to do it or not.

    I find it interesting that the GP hulls tend to vary so much in how bad they porpoise. I can do superman runs on mine, trimmed all the way up, with low fuel, and it will bob ever so slightly on a long run, if I move up just a tad while still in superman it stops completely.

  8. #8
    Moderator OsideBill's Avatar
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    I have an R&D plate and my nozzle is fixed at neutral with a drop nozzle lever for holeshot also. My plate is bone stock R&D I have some measurements from Flying Scotsman to cut it to. I will give this a try soon.

    I have been in contact with a guy I met a few months ago. He used to race the GP1200's and he has a garage full of stuff he wants to part with. Dan Lamey built stroker motor. Trued factory race hull like Jumper's. I am going to meet with him next week he is making a list of all his goodies. I will keep you all posted.

    GPKiwi There is a bit of fitting on the tabs I left off one angle from the drawing I need to update it. No bigee it is a small clearance at the outside edge I will see if I can get a good photo of it. something you can do with a file or some sand paper.

    J-Me how did the CDI work out?

  9. #9
    r33pwrd's Avatar
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    anyone played with the AAT on a 1300?

  10. #10
    GPKiwi's Avatar
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    97sleeper, have read over and over GroupK's findings on the 97 GP in their articles, which keeps pointing to the R&D plate been the best suited. I think rider weight too makes an impact, I am only 65Kgs and short!! It's strange as it will jump around when I am close to top speed, no where else

    Bill, that's sounds OK with the little bit of manual labour to fit them.
    With your guys drop levers whats the difference between that and the standard trim system?

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