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  1. #1

    01 Vriage TXI wont start

    Ski started fine when I got it, then suddenly wouldnt start unless primed. Started going through things on it, found fuel pressure regulator laying in bottom of pump. Cleaned out the pump and modified system with inline Kawasaki fuel pressure regulator. Was told ski had bad TPS when I bought it. Was removing it in the dark so couldnt see how it was initially installed, but noticed it sprang back when bolt was taken out. Tested the TPS and it checks out fine on ohm meter, appears someone installed TPS with arm on wrong side of throttle lever.

    Tried to start it after repairs, still does not fire. Primed engine with fuel, fired right up, runs good, great throttle response which it never had before, but, engine would not shut off with start stop button, had to pull kill switch. Tried to start again, would not start unless primed. Little fuel in throttle bores, fired right up again and runs great.

    Checked fuel pressure, 22.3 psi during cranking, battery fully charged, not showing any lights on MFD. Anyone got any ideas for me to look at?


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Has this machine ever worked properly for you?

    Working in the dark on an unfamiliar machine is not a good idea

    TPS cannot be properly tested with an ohm-meter, despite what the manual says. The meter can tell you if it is bad, but can NOT tell you if it is good.

    Make sure the plastic nub on the TPS arm is in place, and the nub is on the correct side of the throttle shaft arm.

    If there is an external spring on the TPS, the TPS spring should butt against the mounting boss so that it provides mild torque to close the throttle. Make sure the spring is in the correct position, and is not binding.

    Does your TPS look like the one in the photos?

    Check voltage on White/Red wire while cranking (without priming). Should be over 20 volts with all injectors plugged in.
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  3. #3
    Yes, TPS looks just like that, has plastic nub on it and at least now it is for certain mounted correctly. Just back probed the red/white wire on the injectors and only had 10.63 volts during cranking. Will see what your input is, but seem to remember the manual saying something about the capacitor. Will go do some more reading. Thanks for your help.

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Comp View Post
    ...back probed the red/white wire on the injectors and only had 10.63 volts during cranking. Will see what your input is, but seem to remember the manual saying something about the capacitor. Will go do some more reading. Thanks for your help.
    Weak White/Red voltage during cranking;

    EMM needs repair, or
    Stator needs repair, or
    Flywheel magnets are damaged

    What is happening is that the injector voltage is too low for the injectors to actually inject fuel. You have spark, so priming the air intake with fuel causes the engine to start. As the RPM rises above cranking RPM, the available voltage on White/Red rises, enough for the injectors to actually work, so the engine keeps running.

    You can check the stator coils for correct static ohm readings, and check for correct AC voltage readings on the 12-pin connector while cranking.

    Remove the CPS and inspect for signs of metal debris or damage. Metal shavings indicates possible magnet or flywheel damage.

    If the stator and flywheel check out, then the EMM is the likely suspect.

  5. #5
    The factory service manual sucks. I have tried to browse through the tech section looking for stator tests on the split voltage system but cant seem to find any. I pulled some of the info and diagrams from the tech articles but I dont even appear to have a black wire in the stator harness. Is there another article somewhere on website with info on the dual voltage I am missing?

    Pulled the CPS and it was clean, no dammage. Cranked it again, still 10.6 volts at injector. Primed engine and started it, voltage jumped up to 46, so, I would assume the 45 volt section is at least working some above idle. But, then tested voltage at battery. At 3500 rpm I only had 12.2 volts at battery, so it does appear there may be issues with the stator. Is there someone you recommend sending them to for repairs?

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Arrow Ficht stator testing - ohms, voltages, EMM wiring

    The Ficht stator is not grounded at any point. It is a floating AC power source, that feeds directly into the EMM.

    There should be no continuity between any of the Ficht stator coils and the engine ground.
    The 12-pin wire harness connector is unplugged from the EMM and the meter probe tips are touched to the appropriate hollow pins in the wire harness connector. Don't force the probes into the connector as you don't want to damage the hollow pins, you just need to make contact.

    If your meter probes are too thick you can extract the colored plastic insert that covers the front of the pins and then directly access the exposed pin ends. Don't lose the thin flexible rim gasket and be sure to put it back together properly afterwards.

    Easiest to have one person hold the meter probes in place (for voltage checks) while another presses the Start button for a few seconds. Note the meter reading, then repeat for the next stator coil.

    Do do not crank the engine when checking ohms, of course. Cranking is only for the AC voltage tests.

    See attached for connector pinouts and AC voltages on the Ficht 12-pin stator cable connector while cranking (fully charged and healthy battery required).

    1 (BROWN/WHITE) AND 12 (BROWN) 7VAC (feeds 12 volt rectifier section, coil resistance 0.1 - 0.3 ohms)
    2 (BROWN/BLACK) AND 11 (BROWN/YELLOW) 7VAC (feeds 12 volt rectifier section, coil resistance 0.1 - 0.3 ohms)

    3 (YELLOW/BLUE) AND 10 (YELLOW) 5VAC (feeds 45 volt rectifier section, coil resistance 0.3 - 0.5 ohms)
    4 (YELLOW/PURPLE) AND 9 (YELLOW/BLACK) 5VAC (feeds 45 volt rectifier section, coil resistance 0.3 - 0.5 ohms)
    5 (YELLOW/GREEN) AND 8 (YELLOW/GRAY) 5VAC (feeds 45 volt rectifier section, coil resistance 0.3 - 0.5 ohms)

    There are three stator coils that feed the 45 volt DC system (5 VAC while cranking), and two stator coils (7 VAC while cranking) that feed the 12 volt battery charging system.

    What you want to see is that each coil puts out the about same voltage as the others of that group. The actual voltage might be slightly different depending on the battery strength, spark plugs being in or out, and how accurate your meter is.

    All the stator AC coils feed into the EMM via the 12 pin connector. Both the 45 volt and 12 volt DC outputs come out of the EMM on the 8-pin connector, and then feed into the rest of the system.

    The 45 volt feed out of the EMM goes through the diagnostic 4-pin loop connector (via the White/Red wire), then back into the EMM via the big 40-pin connector.
    All Ficht stator checks are done with the 12-pin connector unplugged. Ohms and AC volts.

    All checks of the DC output from the EMM are done with both connectors plugged IN. And all the fuel injectors plugged in.

    Any clean metal spot on the engine is just fine for engine ground reference tests. I often use the same ground screw where the wire harness ground wire connects to the front of the engine near the ignition coil.
    Attached Files Attached Files
    Last edited by K447; 08-30-2016 at 04:16 PM. Reason: Corrected which THREE stator coils feed the 45 volt system

  7. #7
    Thank you for the assistance. Will run some more tests on the stator and see what I have. Obviously that was in the book, but not in with the rest of the information on testing the stator. The way the service manual is laid out its almost like they put in the injected information as an afterthought.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Comp View Post
    ...that was in the book, but not in with the rest of the information on testing the stator.

    The way the service manual is laid out its almost like they put in the injected information as an afterthought.
    I think the idea was to put all the fuel injected info together, separate from the carburetor version of the engines.

    In any case, the service manual relies too heavily on the laptop diagnostic software and service codes.

  9. #9
    Going to call DFI this morning and see if they have any other tests to perform before I send in EMM. Tested the stator and am getting high ohm readings on a couple of them. From top to bottom on the test diagram I have .8, .7, .6, .6 and .6. The last 3 are just barely over the test range, but the first 2 are more than double.

  10. #10
    Tested stator on 2nd ski that does start and run and got the exact same readings as the dead ski, so dont believe it would be the stator at this point. Tried calling DFI all day and just got a recording saying to try back later.

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