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  1. #1

    How much water to bend a rod?

    Ok I have a 3in air intake sitting up front adjacent the large compartment box. Unfortunately ive been having experience (3 times since Jan.) in getting some water into the air intake/engine. Getting enough so that the motor sputters for (believe it or not - i still cant!) about 20min of idleing/light throttle before it eventually clears up and runs normal again (found this out on the 2nd occassion).

    Meanwhile, this 3rd time it's happened was WITH an "Outerwears" prefilter on the element - which pisses me off. I also have a K&N prefilter for added security, but was not on at the time - just the outerwears cover was on.

    My question is:
    Considering enough droplets of water getting into the cylinders to stumble it for say 10-20min of idle/light throttle; is this enough water to bend a conn. rod?????
    This water ingestion has occured only with water coming over the nose during a sudden turn of sorts - NOT submarining it or jumping surf etc. I've even been coming off the throttle all together when i see or know the water may be coming, however, i had no knowledge of the water coming over this last time.

    Im really interested in the danger to the conn. rods to the point of maybe calling the dealer and simply paying them to pull my head and pistons just to look at the rods (before they snap and blow a hole in my case!) Ive already replaced the original motor because of towing with no shut-off valve on water line - i had no idea about that!

    Not looking to get scared even more....just out looking for realistic answers before paying the dealer to pop my motor open.

    Edit: this last time - i put it back on the trailer and came home. Pulled plugs and yes, water was mainly shooting from the rear-most cylinder. Been letting it air-out and dropped some oil in the cylinders while it sits this week.

    Thanks!


  2. #2
    richrxp's Avatar
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    You might have a leaking intercooler.
    Check this first,might solve the problem.
    Have seen this happen before,you have all symptons of it.

  3. #3
    asphalt, dirt, and water are my playgrounds. ViperRy's Avatar
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    I agree with the poster above. Otherwise, if you're getting a lot of water in your hull you can ingest some at the at your charger intake if your clamp isn't sealing the hose on properly.

  4. #4
    I appreciate the responses, however, my question still stands as:


    [QUOTE=blkturbo!;1532562]Ok I have a 3in air intake sitting up front adjacent the large compartment box. Unfortunately ive been having experience (3 times since Jan.) in getting some water into the air intake/engine. Getting enough so that the motor sputters for (believe it or not - i still cant!) about 20min of idleing/light throttle before it eventually clears up and runs normal again (found this out on the 2nd occassion).

    My question is:
    Considering enough droplets of water getting into the cylinders to stumble it for say 10-20min of idle/light throttle; is this enough water to bend a conn. rod?????
    This water ingestion has occured only with water coming over the nose during a sudden turn of sorts - NOT submarining it or jumping surf etc.

  5. #5
    Nobody here has any general knowledge about "water" and "bent rods" in a 4tec motor?
    Thought there were a healthy number of engine gurus around here

  6. #6
    boosted-delslow's Avatar
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    I am no expert but I would say that as long as the engine didnt hydrolock from the water than why would the rod be bent. I just recently got a 4 stroke so I am still learning. I have always had 2 strokes. I would think that you would be able to check for a bent rod without taking the motor apart by using a dial indicater and checking the depth of the pistons at TDC. I believe that they make an adapter that threads into the spark plug holes. But like a say I am no expert just an idea.

  7. #7
    richrxp's Avatar
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    Do a compression test.
    If compression is ok ,no valve problems.

  8. #8
    Ride Hard! aha's Avatar
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    On my old 04 RXP I sucked water up and the ski hydro-locked. If your getting only enough water in your motor where it still runs and only sputters then its not hydro-locked. As to how much water can you get in your motor before it will lock up... well thats variable. Dont forget the water must go through your SC, IC, and Intake Manifold before getting into your motor. All these components can hold some of the water.

    Get all the water out of your motor. Then replace your spark plugs. Then run it on the water hose to ensure its running ok. Now take it to the lake and run the ski. If it is running fine that you did not bend a rod. If it is vibrating or running "different" then you should look into what could be causing this, and yes a bent rod could be the culprit. If it is running normal then there is no problem with the motor.

    Also check your oil and make sure its clean, might be good to just change it out anyways to be safe. Also do remember the rods in your motor are forged. Yes they can be broken but its very difficult to break them. They will bend 1st and you will notice the ski is not running properly.

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by aha View Post
    Get all the water out of your motor. Then replace your spark plugs. Then run it on the water hose to ensure its running ok. Now take it to the lake and run the ski. If it is running fine that you did not bend a rod. If it is vibrating or running "different" then you should look into what could be causing this, and yes a bent rod could be the culprit. If it is running normal then there is no problem with the motor.

    Also do remember the rods in your motor are forged. Yes they can be broken but its very difficult to break them. They will bend 1st and you will notice the ski is not running properly.

    Yea, ive been running the water out of it with plugs out. Again, not a BUNCH, just enough to make it sputter a while like i described. It starts fine and idles fine and never any vibration....so likely my rods are okay. Im just paranoid since its the 3rd time since Jan this has happend, and i dont want to buy another engine from seadoo.
    As mentioned, my first/original motor threw a rod and busted my case; all because i towed it without clamping the water hose off. When that happened, the motor had trouble starting but then ran like a freight train for the next 4 weekends before the rod snapped (so i know from experience that the motor can run great up until it suddenly throws a rod).


    I like the idea of using a special tool like a dial indicator i suppose, to check distance between all 3 TDC's.....I'll ask the dealer if they'll do that for me before yanking the top of the motor apart.

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