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  1. #1
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    running w/o oil filter

    i posted this same question in the how to section and i know that doesn't get the views this side does.
    long story short: a buddies 05rxp had a little water ingestion issue. all i was wondering was when changing the oil all those times to get the milkshake out can you run the motor w/o the oil filter so you don't have to ruin a bunch of them. im not talking run the motor for long periods of time just pour new oil in, run for a minute, suck oil out, and repeat until no more shake (obviously with the oil filter cap back on)
    thanks guys
    mike


  2. #2
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    because of all the hiding spots in those motors, you will never get it out by just doing tons of oil changes. Sit it on the trailer on the hose or at a launch, let it idle for an hour or more! take the dip stick out, take the oil cap off and unhook the catch can hose, let it boil off at idle. The oil runs hotter then the boiling point of water, it will boil all the water out leaving you with a clean motor. You wont get it all out the other way.
    Good luck!

  3. #3
    2006 Turbo RXP boBO's Avatar
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    Will, keep your old filter in and every time your trying to get the milkshake out lool just take the old filter and clean it with fuel and dry it with air and put it in

    After you make sure no more water in oil put new filter with new oil and you will be good to go


    Spray allllooooot of wd40 on the carbon ring if you are trying to flash the ski and changing oil cuz it'll be veeeery hot on flush hose

  4. #4
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by boBO View Post


    Spray allllooooot of wd40 on the carbon ring if you are trying to flash the ski and changing oil cuz it'll be veeeery hot on flush hose

    DO NOT DO THAT!
    If you are going to run on a hose for more then couple of minutes, you need to be spreaying the carbon ring with water only. I use an old mister head and a y-fitting on my flush hose to deal with that need.

    WD-40 will RUIN the carbon ring.

    It's advisable to read up on the procedure to clear a water flooded engine in the seadoo manual for your specific ski and take most advice given here with a grain of salt since from what I'm seeing lately, there is alot of "assumptive" advice being handed out by folks with good intentions to provide help.

    Good intentions, if you are lucky don't cost you more money.

    I clear lots of sunken skis here

    A typical 4-tec will take 8 changes to clear the oil ( I just leave the filter in until the last change, when the oil is clear...then you also need to deal with intercooler (there is a specific procedure to follow to clean that out..it's in the manual, which you can find here with a little use of the search engine).

    I advise the customer to bring it back for another change after the first day out just to be on the safe side, since lake water is typically not clean enough to drink, so there is always some debris coming along with it.

    A Kawasaki 15f for example uses a slightly different way to clear the intake manifolds, there are three drain plugs at the bottom of the airbox, and one at the bottom of the intake manifold.

    boBO-read up on how the carbon ring operates and manual directions for installation, you'll see why I overheated when you advised to spray it with wd-40.

    The first time I ran into a carbon ring, I recognized it uses the same system as my spa pump, which means you don't put anything on it but water..and it has to be clean clean clean when it's installed. Some of the carbon transfers to the stainless steel ring during the first few minutes of operation to provide lubrication, water on the pump side keeps it cool. WD-40 or other lubricants ruin the ability to transfer the carbon, and the ring will heat up start leaking.

  5. #5
    JFizzleJR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by henn View Post
    Sit it on the trailer on the hose or at a launch, let it idle for an hour or more!
    I strongly advise against running the ski on the hose for anywhere close to an hour. 5 minutes at a time is more realistic

  6. #6
    2006 Turbo RXP boBO's Avatar
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    nmpeter


    Thanks for the info

  7. #7
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    so sounds like i can pretty much leave the filter in till i got clean oil coming back out of the sucker. it wasnt a full on sinking, a siphon hose "came off" so when the ski was off it was filling up. got to right about the bottom of s/cer inlet but no water inside of it (i checked) had just a little water in the oil not sure how but it did.

  8. #8
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    i guess i forgot to ask what "cheap" oil can i flush this 4tech with? obviously i dont wanna use my amsoil!

  9. #9
    richrxp's Avatar
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    Just use the cheapest motoroil (10w40) you can find.
    I had the same issues like you,had to do 7 oilchanges before the oil wasn't milky anymore.
    Once the oil looks fine,do the last oilchange,and put in the amsoil.
    You won't be able to get all the cheap oil out.
    Make a testride,and extract about 1.5 liters of oil and replace it with the amsoil.
    This way you have most of the cheaper oil out,and your safe to go.

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