View Poll Results: crank has 100 hours on it, rebuild/replace or leave it alone

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  • rebuild/replace

    6 28.57%
  • if it aint broke, dont fix it.

    15 71.43%
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  1. #1
    Superman! fivespeedsteed's Avatar
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    100+ hour cranks?

    so im getting mixed opinions. some say if im not going to be doing triples or stroking or anything, a 100 hour crank in a 1200r is fine to use without re doing.

    some say if its got 100 hours on it it needs to be redone period.

    is there ways to tell whats about to break or if it should be redone?

    i should have my 107 hour crank out later this week and will post pics in my build thread, but want soild opinions. id like to have this ski good for another 100 hours.

    crankworks quoted me about 600 dollars, with new rods, and bearings. its getting pulled apart because of the oil seals leaking.

    i know hot rods sells a crank for a decent price, but think then id be wasting my oem crank.


  2. #2
    old school gp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fivespeedsteed View Post
    so im getting mixed opinions. some say if im not going to be doing triples or stroking or anything, a 100 hour crank in a 1200r is fine to use without re doing.

    some say if its got 100 hours on it it needs to be redone period.

    is there ways to tell whats about to break or if it should be redone?

    i should have my 107 hour crank out later this week and will post pics in my build thread, but want soild opinions. id like to have this ski good for another 100 hours.

    crankworks quoted me about 600 dollars, with new rods, and bearings. its getting pulled apart because of the oil seals leaking.

    i know hot rods sells a crank for a decent price, but think then id be wasting my oem crank.
    i say rebuild, dont take a chance i did it twice and twice i had to buy new cylinders from the bearings taking a shit

  3. #3
    PolarisNut's Avatar
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    100 hrs is not a problem for the rods and bearings, if it was properly maintained (which is what is replaced during a rebuild)...DO NOT buy a HotRods crank...there have been too many with issues right out of the box. I'd also never send my crank to Crankworks to be totally rebuilt...I'd just buy a new OEM one. They can be had for under $700. This way, you get a new MAG snout, which is know to occasionally fail. Personally, I'd stick that crank back in the motor, and put the $700 in the bank.

  4. #4
    Superman! fivespeedsteed's Avatar
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    so when i get this crank out ill be able to tell if something is about to crap out on me right? id like this to last another 100 hours at most before i go 1390.

  5. #5
    PolarisNut's Avatar
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    Turn the "main" bearings and see if they feel smooth, and check for side to side free play. If everything looks good here, I think you're wasting money completely rebuilding it.

  6. #6
    dewzee1200's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fivespeedsteed View Post
    so when i get this crank out ill be able to tell if something is about to crap out on me right? id like this to last another 100 hours at most before i go 1390.
    "
    I have a GP1200R with 2 bad pistons and hole in Upper Crankcase due to cracked piston -- Question is what is best approach for rebuild --- and what does "before i go 1390" above mean ?

  7. #7
    Superman! fivespeedsteed's Avatar
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    meaning the next time i pull it apart to rebuild it im sending it to lowell or someone of the like to get it bored and stroked to a 1390cc motor. in order to go faster.

  8. #8
    When i tore my motor down at 117hrs, i was just going to do rings. When i looked at #1 big end rod bearing it had 1/3" play side to side!!! I pulled the motor, removed crank, marked it and pressed the counterweight back to acheive proper clearance. Just put 2 hours on it and no funny vibrations or noises so far.

  9. #9
    PolarisNut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by onefastmx5 View Post
    When i tore my motor down at 117hrs, i was just going to do rings. When i looked at #1 big end rod bearing it had 1/3" play side to side!!! I pulled the motor, removed crank, marked it and pressed the counterweight back to acheive proper clearance. Just put 2 hours on it and no funny vibrations or noises so far.
    Should have welded the pin, to prevent it from happening again, which it probably will.

  10. #10
    Superman! fivespeedsteed's Avatar
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    side to side play meaning when you grab the connecting rod it moves side to side a little? my motor is still in, but the jugs and pistons are off. when i grab the connecting rods and hold them straight up, they move front to back a little (side to side) i thought that was normal though because all 3 of them move the exact amount and feel the exact same.

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