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  1. #1
    Home grown engineer, and professional tinkerer. 2 Strokin' Polaris's Avatar
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    Through hull fitting leaking, not the drive shaft seal.

    I have the SLX's pump off (after breaking the long bolt on the top right ...1/2 inch of threads sticking out of housing). The thru hull fitting as a unit is moveable with the hand, but I am assuming there is a special 3 slotted tool that will separate the pieces of the fitting after doing some reading. The drive shaft seal looked okay, but I am probably going to replace it just to feel like I have done something important.

    Problem 1: can someone help me out with renting that tool, or even finding it for purchase?
    Problem 2: Is the thru hull fitting available?
    Problem 3: Is there a good method for removing the broken bolt that is sticking out of the housing, and is that bolt available anywhere?


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2 Strokin' Polaris View Post
    I have the SLX's pump off (after breaking the long bolt on the top right ...1/2 inch of threads sticking out of housing).

    The thru hull fitting as a unit is movable with the hand, but I am assuming there is a special 3 slotted tool that will separate the pieces of the fitting after doing some reading.

    The drive shaft seal looked okay, but I am probably going to replace it just to feel like I have done something important.

    Problem 1: can someone help me out with renting that tool, or even finding it for purchase?
    Problem 2: Is the thru hull fitting available?
    Problem 3: Is there a good method for removing the broken bolt that is sticking out of the housing, and is that bolt available anywhere?
    I think you are asking about the threaded plastic piece that goes around the drive shaft where it passes into the pump tunnel. Items 11, 12 and 13 in the diagram.

    The parts are still available new from Polaris.
    5432298 5411174 5431985



    Sometimes it does become loose in the hull, and just needs to be resealed and tightened back up. Make sure the O-ring is in good shape. I don't know who might have the special tool on hand (2871425).

    Perhaps you can cobble together something that will do the job



    Replacement jet pump bolts are available new from Polaris, or good used in sets of four from John Zigler.

    Apply some PB Blaster or Kano Kroil to the bolt stub, and let it soak in. Apply some heat with an electric heat gun, taking care not to overcook the SMC hull material.

    Then find a tool to apply some torque to remove the SS stub from the aluminum pump base.

    Once you have it out, run a thread tap down all four bolt holes to clean out the threads

  3. #3
    Home grown engineer, and professional tinkerer. 2 Strokin' Polaris's Avatar
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    K447 you are right on the money with my problems. Fighting items 11, 12, and 13 which were responsible for the leak. I haven't ever heard of PB Blaster but would assume it is like WD-40 on steroids. I will check the parts store for it while acquiring a heat gun. I am thinking a pair of vise grips might be the best bet for putting torque on the stub. I will also get in touch with John for the bolt. If anyone has the tool feel free to let me know.

    I am half way tempted to grab my wife's curling iron and see if I get enough heat out of that to loosen the bolt...

  4. #4
    If you get stuck and that pump housing is damaged. I have an SLX 780 hull cut up and sitting in my trash pile. The housing is still intact...probably the fitting too. You can have them for cost of shipping.

  5. #5
    Race, wreck, repeat delagem's Avatar
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    When my thru-hull came loose 6 years ago, I simply grabbed part # 15 with a pair of 440 Channellocks, and gave a twist. Snugged right up, no leaks since.

    PB Blaster is available at NAPA stores, at least up here in NY. Good stuff, but don't get it in your eyes!

    EDIT: That's odd. K's pic shows it as part #11, mine shows it as part number 15? Anyways, that's the piece that you can turn to retighten.


  6. #6
    Home grown engineer, and professional tinkerer. 2 Strokin' Polaris's Avatar
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    Thank you delagem! Got the fitting off. What is odd is that there wasn't a spacer (#14) in my assembly. My o-ring looks good (not flat) so now I am wondering how the heck the water was getting in. Maybe my shaft seal was leaking...maybe just need to snug up the thru hull fitting? The water was clearly comming in where the SMC meets the fitting when I was on the water last.

  7. #7
    Race, wreck, repeat delagem's Avatar
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    On my fiche, part # 14 IS the O ring....

    13 5431985 1 NUT,SHAFT HSG. 7.35
    14 5411174 1 O-RING .92
    15 5432298 1 HSG,SHAFT,THRU-HULL,O-RING 22.10


    As copied from www.partsland.com

    When mine was leaking, it only took 1/4 of a turn to tighten it up, so that may indeed be your problem.

  8. #8
    Home grown engineer, and professional tinkerer. 2 Strokin' Polaris's Avatar
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    Well, that makes sense. I guess Polaris didn't want to draw to scale... I will give it a good 1/4 turn to get it snugged back up. While doing a closer inspection of the drive shaft seal, I did find a lip that had folded in on itself on the water side of the seal. Is that piece rebuildable with parts from SBT or is this one non-rebuildable? To replace the fitting, and seal housing with bearings (new Polaris parts) I was quoted $189 Does that sound about right?

  9. #9
    Race, wreck, repeat delagem's Avatar
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    Oh, it's easily rebuildable. See my thread on the Squeaky Driveline question....

    http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/show...riveline/page2

    All you need is $36 in parts (coulda gotten them cheaper but I went thru Partsland to get them quicker), and an hour in the shop. Well worth doing while you've already got the pump and driveline out.

    Use a screwdriver to pry out the old seals, use hammer and screwdriver to drive out the bushings, freeze the new bushings for 30 min or so, heat the housing with a torch briefly, and use a large-ish socket to evenly apply pressure to the new bushings as you tap them in.

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