09-05-2010, 01:27 PM #1
Buying a ride plate, intake, etc...
Well, I'm sure this has been beaten to death but I'm about to pull the trigger and didn't want to make a mistake. I've read 100's of threads over the past few weeks and I'm still not sure which to go with.
I have an 01 GP1200r, I ride on Lake Erie. It's calm one day, 5ft waves the next. I really want good hook up, that's the most important to me. Top speed is second. I'm leaning toward the R&D package right now:
R&D GP1200R Ride Plate
Part #: 122-12001 7100-7120 65-65.5 mph
R&D GP1200R Ride Plate Trim Pads
Part #: 122-12002 7100-7120 65.5-66 mph
R&D GP1200R Aquavein Grate Kit
Part #: 112-12002 7100-7120 65.5-66 mph
R&D GP1200R Pump Shoe Seal Kit
Part #: 162-00000 7100-7120 65.5-66 mph
R&D GP1200R Anti-Cavitation Cone
Part #: 162-12002
Seems like a decent buy. Where are the Riva stuff is a bit more.
RY22420 Intake Grate, Two Bar, Top-Loader $129.95
RY21013 Ride Plate, Performance, YAM GPR $169.95
162-12002 Pump Cone, YAM GPR/FX 02~07 $91.87
RY2520 Pump Seal Kit, YAM GPR All $79.95 $79.95
RY2720-1 Trim Tab Kit, Performance, YAM GPR $149.95
Money isn't a huge issue if I'm gaining something worth the difference but as far as I've read, R&D stuff is great. I also like that it's not painted.
Btw, I'd also be replacing the mounting hardware with either kit and reinforcing the tunnel.
Not sure how relevant this is but I my other mods include:
D Plate/Chip from R&D
Fuel Clunks from Jetski Solutions
R&D Extended Steering Nozzle
After I do this and get some ride time in I'd start figuring what prop.
09-05-2010, 01:41 PM #2
It's kind of embarrassing but since I was last on here, someone just posted this thread and kind of answered this but any input is still appreciated.
09-05-2010, 03:17 PM #3
For rough water, the stock ride plate is really the best from what I hear from Hydrotoys. But if you want to go aftermarket, a Riva or R&D plate with Jims FF mod is a great choice.
09-05-2010, 03:36 PM #4
- Join Date
- Oct 2005
I went from a modded plate to a stock plate and the ski does stay hooked much better...
If speed is NOT your goal, and being able to ride in rough water, stay with the stock plate...
you can still get decent speed with everything else set up right...
DO NOT believe those statistics of any advertised package, we all know there are off...
if you read use this prop, But you have to use this nozzle to get maximum gain, well then why don`t they include these extra`s in the kit...
every hull is different, every ones work and set up is different which will give different results...
stick to what`s repeated here over and over about the GPR hull...
09-05-2010, 10:14 PM #5
I'ved never used or have read of anyone with using the anti-cavitation cone/pump cone
09-06-2010, 12:20 AM #6
Thanks guys, I spoke with a member from here this evening about my goals with the ski and what a good route is. He gave me some solid advise. I'm going to kick this project off over the next month or so. Next summer should be pretty nice.
09-06-2010, 07:45 AM #7
09-06-2010, 09:46 AM #8
- Join Date
- Jan 2006
- Texas City, Texas
I'm going to go out on a limb on a few of these components.
Some of these components are just a plain waste of your COINAGE! Others are a real must. I've had an opportunity to race on Lake Erie and understand your conditions. I experienced both of the conditions that you described in the SAME race at Sanduski. These conditions are not unlike what we have here in the Gulf of Mexico. I'm trying to approach it from a practical perspective.
Ride Plates: You in essence described the calm water vs the 5 footer waves as two extreems of riding conditions. The FF ride plate and the stock ride plate are the two extreem plates that would shine under only 1 of those conditions. The major difference is that the FF plate can be adjusted to ride in rough water somewhat like the stocker. A stock R&D plate is something like a compromise in that you can use (and adjust it) for rough conditions and yet get some decent speed out of it in smooth water. This would be a good choice for you.
Forget the aftermarket trim tabs. You have the stock aluminum tabs that can be adjusted by putting 80-100 thousandths washers between the tabs and the hull under all of the mounting bolts. This will add great stability to the hull in rough water and stabilize (reduce porpoising) in smooth.
For your riding conditions, the 1200 double bar grate is an absolute must.
Forget the pump shoe seal kit. The idea of sealing your pump is the right one, but sealing the pump with this kit is to expensive and if not done properly will actually work against you. You can make a kit much cheaper. How it is sealed has been discussed at great length.... and with pictures.
The anti-cavitation cone is a waste of money. I've got one from a previous purchase and wouldn't sell it to you because I'd be taking advantage of you.
The fuel clunks are a great addition if you are racing and you want to take advantage of the last drops of fuel in your tank ( the lower the tank level, the less weight and the faster your boat will travel in racing conditions). Do you really plan on riding on fumes? An alternative would be to pull your fuel sending unit, remove the flapper valve and add extensions on the reserve fuel line so that you can pull fuel a little closer from the bottom of the tank. About 2 inches of fuel line tie wrapped to the aluminum reserve tube should do it for you. Do research on this. It is a very practicle mod, will extend you riding time between fill ups, and keep you from bogging from lack of fuel when you run low. Down side: when you are out of gas, your tank is OUT of gas!
The extended steering nozzle looks nice and is better than the stock when it comes to hard turning. I would not advise getting one unless you broke your stocker. It does not really add value unless you are racing for time.
About the reinforced tunnel mod. Remember, this is just my opinion. The '00 and 01' hulls were from the factory were very strong. Later hulls were much weaker and some of the later stocker models had issues with bolts pulling out of the shoes and cracks in the tunnel. Combine this with the fact that many people are adding monster engines (1390cc and greater), and it makes for a bad combination for tunnel destruction. As the boats go faster they are subjected to higher pressures in the inlet tunnel. For this reason they need to be reinforced. Does any of this sound like it applies to you? Has anyone ever asked the basic question: How many '00 and '01 models actually have stock or near stock motors AND have experienced cracked tunnels? There is no debate wether or not tunnel reinforcement is a good mod, the question once again is "does the mod apply to you"?
All of the other mods that you want to add do have merit.
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