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  1. #1
    Banned User
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Aussie Land

    iS suspension models - Model specific maintenance and information

    I'm hoping a couple of the guys can chip in with their input into this thread too...
    This should be in addition to normal maintenance as per manuals.

    After every ride (this should go for all skis):

    -Make sure you empty all water from the footwells and as much as you can from the bottom deck by tilting the ski on the trailer as far back as possible after cleaning the ski with fresh water. Sponge up water that you can reach.

    -Check all seals front bucket and rear board are clean of debris or leaks may occur.

    -Check debris/sand is not inbetween rear storage buckets and the hull. (Or abrasion will occur - Bye bye gel coat) Clean as necessary.

    Things that you should check/do on a regular basis:

    -Check that all the connectors in-between the 2 decks are secure, tucked above the height of the metal crossbars and are well lubricated whenever they are unplugged. (Di-lectric grease is best) Damage to the plugs due to crushing between the 2 decks will result in malfunction and/or fault codes. Cable tie the looms to the top deck where they will not get crushed.

    -Lubricate/spray the IBR control surface joints.

    -Check all the shocks for the rear deck/front storage area for damage around the end points. Replace as necessary (Or use metal bolts)

    Things that you should check/do when servicing:

    -While the top deck is off, check that your OEM spring is not rusted/bent. Some surface rust will always begin at the point where the first coil is wound. (This can be fixed by separating the coils and powder coating in-between) It is advised that you should grease the spring, the end caps (for the springs) and the hydraulic shaft within the spring to prevent oxidization.

    -Check the shock mounts/shock for normal appearance and function.

    -Check all hose clamps are tight on exhaust/intake joins.

    -Check the charge-pipe hose clamp from the SC is not causing damage to the airbox.

    -Check bellow for cracks/brakes - This will allow water to enter the hull if not replaced.

    -Always tape down the bellow to the spring/shock mount in the correct position to avoid it being moved and crushed while lowering the top deck down.

    Simple modifications:

    -Removal of the rear plastic exhaust resonator will free up approx. 12 liters of in-hull space and give plenty more arm space when working on the ski. Replace the resonator with either stainless/aluminum/hi density plastic tubing. The resonator will exit via the battery side rear hull entrance without cutting it into pieces.

    -Bilge outlets can be 'thru-skinned' thru the rear of the engine cover. No drilling of the hull should be required.

    I hope some other guys can add to this...
    Can you think of anything else?

  2. #2
    This is my place of Zenn smohammed's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Trinidad & Tobago / Broward FL
    stickyy... needs more though... chime in guys

  3. #3
    Banned User
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Aussie Land
    Other things that aren't in the service manual that are easily overlooked.

    On the rear pivot arm connection points to the moving deck, all bolts must be checked periodically, or else failure will occur where the rear pivot arm has a catastrophic failure and will require replacement.

    The issue is the fact that the bolts that go through the top deck are driven through plastic and never make completely solid compression onto the deck.

    ryejetski and myself have a solution for this at the moment, without a simple fix and without periodic checking, this is a ticking time bomb for iS owners.

    Contact either myself or ryejetski for a replacement solution.

    I'm considering including this as part of the suspension upgrade kit to bulletproof the iS models.

    My ski as it stands is bulletproof with the suspension replacement and the rear pivot beef up.

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