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  1. #1
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    R-3 reflash instructions

    does any one have instructions for R-3 reflash thanks


  2. #2
    hitman's Avatar
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    Did you get them? If not let me know, and I will see if I can get them for you tomorrow morning. Jerry may have them too.

  3. #3
    Mine are boxed up and not readily avail. Key things were set RRFPR at 40 with 1 to 1 rising (so you need to connect a hose from intake/multiport or whatever your setup has) and check your AFR's.
    Other than that it is just a plug and play

  4. #4
    Phil.Borg's Avatar
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    Dose anyone know what timing there running on the r3 or is that a hush hush thing?

  5. #5
    hitman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SQURTN View Post
    Dose anyone know what timing there running on the r3 or is that a hush hush thing?
    I don't think it's really secret squirrel stuff if that's what you mean, but I am also unsure about the exact numbers.

    The R3 does have slightly reduced timing at WOT for higher boost levels. I did not know this before, but the timing curve in the tune does use boost reference. So those of you out there wanting to run a lower boost wheel like a C3, Etech low boost, or B1 wheel, you can still run an R3 and not miss out on any timing at WOT. Reason being is your peak boost numbers will be lower than that of a C5, or E1, or Etech high boost wheel, and the ECU will recognize this and you won't be missing out on any timing from say... the R2 programming. When you get to the higher boost levels that the R3 supports, then it starts to reduce peak timing for added safety.

    The main difference in the R2 and the R3 is 1. the boost levels it supports, and 2. the timing curve. I already told you how the R3 has slightly less timing at high RPM and high boost levels, but it also worth noting that the R3 has MORE bottom end timing than the R2, and this is because it's designed to pull a twin prop. The description even recommends a twin prop for the R3 if I'm not mistaken That doesn't mean you HAVE TO run one, it's just their suggestion.

    Say you want run big boost with no twin prop, and are ok with using throttle control on take off so you don't cavitate like hell and destroy your pump, then you may want to call up R&D and say hey, "I want an R3 that is more tailored for a regular skat prop and not a twin prop." They can do that for you. Just have to ask for it is all.

  6. #6
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    Thanks for info . I see u have a new top speed was that with C-3 ?

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by hitman View Post
    I don't think it's really secret squirrel stuff if that's what you mean, but I am also unsure about the exact numbers.

    The R3 does have slightly reduced timing at WOT for higher boost levels. I did not know this before, but the timing curve in the tune does use boost reference. So those of you out there wanting to run a lower boost wheel like a C3, Etech low boost, or B1 wheel, you can still run an R3 and not miss out on any timing at WOT. Reason being is your peak boost numbers will be lower than that of a C5, or E1, or Etech high boost wheel, and the ECU will recognize this and you won't be missing out on any timing from say... the R2 programming. When you get to the higher boost levels that the R3 supports, then it starts to reduce peak timing for added safety.

    The main difference in the R2 and the R3 is 1. the boost levels it supports, and 2. the timing curve. I already told you how the R3 has slightly less timing at high RPM and high boost levels, but it also worth noting that the R3 has MORE bottom end timing than the R2, and this is because it's designed to pull a twin prop. The description even recommends a twin prop for the R3 if I'm not mistaken That doesn't mean you HAVE TO run one, it's just their suggestion.

    Say you want run big boost with no twin prop, and are ok with using throttle control on take off so you don't cavitate like hell and destroy your pump, then you may want to call up R&D and say hey, "I want an R3 that is more tailored for a regular skat prop and not a twin prop." They can do that for you. Just have to ask for it is all.
    Exellent information, thanks.

  8. #8
    Phil.Borg's Avatar
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    Thanks for the reply hitman top info as usual il be running a 160mm with my r3 and c3

    Though id still like to find out the timing so i can compare it to other ecu maps

  9. #9
    hitman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big brother View Post
    Thanks for info . I see u have a new top speed was that with C-3 ?
    Sure do. Not quite where I want to be yet. I took out my prop and sent it off to have a little more pitch added, and going to try an R3 tune as well. Hoping to clip of 80+ this weekend in a local shootout. That would be a great way to end the summer.

    Quote Originally Posted by SQURTN View Post
    Thanks for the reply hitman top info as usual il be running a 160mm with my r3 and c3

    Though id still like to find out the timing so i can compare it to other ecu maps
    Just a word of caution, MOST guys have had a really hard time trying to pull a 160mm prop and liner setup with a C3. It seems to really take a C5/E1/E-tech high boost wheel to pull them. If you are dead set on going 160mm setup, your trailing edge is going to have to be around 19 degrees or possibly less.

    If I were you, I would order up an R&D Pro Pitch Long Blade and an anti cavitation cone. That setup works extremely well in my boat and will work even better once it comes back to me with a little added pitch. If you are looking to totally eliminate low end cav, a properly pitched twin prop can pull you just as fast as a 160mm will with your particular setup. Just throwin those other options out there.

    If you want exact timing numbers, call up R&D. Also understand that you may not even be able to notice an extra degree or two in timing on top end, so it's kind of hard to compare the tunes on paper.

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by hitman View Post
    I don't think it's really secret squirrel stuff if that's what you mean, but I am also unsure about the exact numbers.

    The R3 does have slightly reduced timing at WOT for higher boost levels. I did not know this before, but the timing curve in the tune does use boost reference. So those of you out there wanting to run a lower boost wheel like a C3, Etech low boost, or B1 wheel, you can still run an R3 and not miss out on any timing at WOT. Reason being is your peak boost numbers will be lower than that of a C5, or E1, or Etech high boost wheel, and the ECU will recognize this and you won't be missing out on any timing from say... the R2 programming. When you get to the higher boost levels that the R3 supports, then it starts to reduce peak timing for added safety.

    The main difference in the R2 and the R3 is 1. the boost levels it supports, and 2. the timing curve. I already told you how the R3 has slightly less timing at high RPM and high boost levels, but it also worth noting that the R3 has MORE bottom end timing than the R2, and this is because it's designed to pull a twin prop. The description even recommends a twin prop for the R3 if I'm not mistaken That doesn't mean you HAVE TO run one, it's just their suggestion.

    Say you want run big boost with no twin prop, and are ok with using throttle control on take off so you don't cavitate like hell and destroy your pump, then you may want to call up R&D and say hey, "I want an R3 that is more tailored for a regular skat prop and not a twin prop." They can do that for you. Just have to ask for it is all.
    So if you tell them that you want to use it with a skat prop they will reduce the timing on the low end?

    On a different note if you ask for an R3 without powershot the map will just have more fuel than a R3 with powershot map?

    Are you trying the R3 with or without the powershot?

    Too many question I guess, just want to hear answers from different sources to make sure we are all in the same page with the R3.

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