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  1. #1

    2001 polaris virage tx, wont start again after shutting off.

    Help! I put a 1050 motor in a virage tx. It had a 1200. Transferred the entire wiring harness and stator from the 1200 to the 1050. Did this because the 1050 (slx) has a different wiring harness ( separate start stop buttons). The virage tx has a single button for starting and stopping. Here is what it does. Cold it start fine, can run it all day, but if you shut it off, hit the start button and nothing happens. Pull the lanyard kill, hit the start button and it cranks fine but wont start because the lanyard is preventing spark. Put the lanyard back in and it won't crank when the start button is pushed. By meaning wont crank, absolutely nothing happens. Have pulled the wiring harness plug going to the start/stop switch, and the red purple wire has 12 volts. Let it set for a few hours and it will start. Have replaced the module in the big black box that controls the stop/start function with a new one. Didn't fix the problem. Ran it for a hour yesterday, shut if off after one hour, and it would not crank with the lanyard in. I do not believe it is the start/ stop switch because it cranks with the lanyard out. Do not believe it is a flat spot on the starter again because it cranks strong with the lanyard pulled. Have checked voltage, battery is charging at 14 volts, and is 12.8 with engine off. Is it possible that something in the stator is getting warm. Looking at the wireing diagram can't see that the stator has any part of the starting circuit.?????


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Arrow Bypassing the LR-505 Start/Stop module (test lanyard out crank, lanyard in no-crank)

    Quote Originally Posted by dockeffer View Post
    Help! I put a 1050 motor in a virage tx. It had a 1200. Transferred the entire wiring harness and stator from the 1200 to the 1050. Did this because the 1050 (slx) has a different wiring harness ( separate start stop buttons).

    The virage tx has a single button for starting and stopping. Here is what it does. Cold it start fine, can run it all day, but if you shut it off, hit the start button and nothing happens. Pull the lanyard kill, hit the start button and it cranks fine but wont start because the lanyard is preventing spark.

    Put the lanyard back in and it won't crank when the start button is pushed. By meaning wont crank, absolutely nothing happens.

    Have pulled the wiring harness plug going to the start/stop switch, and the red purple wire has 12 volts. Let it set for a few hours and it will start.

    Have replaced the module in the big black box that controls the stop/start function with a new one. Didn't fix the problem.

    Ran it for a hour yesterday, shut if off after one hour, and it would not crank with the lanyard in.

    I do not believe it is the start/ stop switch because it cranks with the lanyard out...
    Stator has nothing to do with cranking or the Start button.

    Was the replacement Start/Stop module you tried new or used?

    Where does the Red/Purple wire from the CDI connect to? Orange terminal?

    The LR-505 Start/Stop module can be bypassed for testing purposes. Do not continue to use it without a working Start/Stop module.

    Bypass LR-505 module to diagnose lanyard out crank, lanyard in no-crank condition - can also diagnose some other symptoms
    Find the LR-505 module in the electrical box.

    Disconnect all the LR-505 module wires.

    Find the non-LR Black/White wire and move it to the Black terminal.
    Note: After disconnecting all the LR-505 wires there will be one other Black/White wire still connected to the terminal board. Move that Black/White wire to the Black terminal group.

    Note: This is just for testing, and the black/White wire needs to be moved back to the Black/White terminal after the testing is finished.

    Move the Red/Purple wire for the CDI from the Orange terminal to the Red/Purple terminal where all the other Red/Purple wires connect.

    Note: It is possible that while the CDI Red/Purple wire is not on Orange the CDI will suffer a no-warm restart condition. If this happens then wait five minutes between engine restart attempts. The problem will self-correct when the LR-505 is reconnected and the wiring is returned to factory configuration.

    Edit: Alternate method is to hold the Bilge button down to supply power to the CDI through the Orange wires. Bilge pump should run with Bilge button held down, and engine should have spark when cranking.


    You have now by-passed the LR-505 Start/Stop module, and the only way to stop the engine is using the lanyard.
    The Start button will start the engine, but will not stop the engine.

    Confirm that the engine now starts. Shut it off by removing the lanyard.

    If the engine now cranks and starts as it should with the lanyard in place, and does NOT behave when the LR-505 is reconnected as it was before, then the LR-505 has failed.
    Last edited by K447; 07-08-2016 at 06:11 AM.

  3. #3
    I'm gonna go with the Red/Purple to Orange jumper issue.

    My Genesis did the exact same thing. I could use a wrench to jump the solenoid and it would fire right up.

  4. #4
    k447, thanks for the help. the replacement module was brand new. I actually have another one on standby that is also new. will try the above, sorry for the slow reply.

  5. #5
    Well I put the second brand new module on. Started up and ran for three hours, shut it off and it would not crank. pull lanyard and it cranks. put lanyard back in, pulled seat back and jumped the two big terminals on the solenoid, cranked but would not fire. Let it set for three hours and it would crank and fire right up. Help!!!!

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dockeffer View Post
    Well I put the second brand new module on. Started up and ran for three hours, shut it off and it would not crank.

    pull lanyard and it cranks.

    put lanyard back in, pulled seat back and jumped the two big terminals on the solenoid, cranked but would not fire.

    Let it set for three hours and it would crank and fire right up. Help!!!!
    Let's keep everything in one thread, OK?

    I replied to your other thread, but let's continue with this one.

    No crank with lanyard in, but does crank with lanyard out, is almost always an LR Start/Stop module issue. Since you have now tried three different modules, either all the modules are no good, or something else is affecting how the LR-505 module works.

    I presume if you bypass the LR-505 module the engine starts, runs fine, and stops using the lanyard, every time - correct?

    If not, then the CDI itself may be the problem.

    The LR-505 senses engine RPM through the Yellow 'RPM' wire, and senses the Start/Stop button through the Black/White wire. The Start/Stop button supplies battery voltage to the Yellow/Red wire, which then goes through the solenoid coil to the Black/White wire, which in turn leads to the LR-505 module.

    The LR-505 looks at the Yellow wire to decide whether the engine is currently running.

    An AC voltage signal on Yellow means the engine is running, so voltage on Black/White means you are pressing Start/Stop button, and want the engine to stop. The LR module does not allow the solenoid to activate, and instead kills ignition to the CDI by grounding the Black/Yellow wire.

    If there is no AC signal on Yellow, then voltage on the Black/White wire (from the Start/Stop switch through the solenoid coil) means you want the engine to crank. The LR-505 then grounds the Black/White wire (through the MFI display Purple/White), which allows current to flow through the solenoid, and the starter then cranks the engine.

    I think the LR-505 module has some hysteresis, so that a very short tap on the Start/Stop button or lanyard will still kill the engine.

    I suggest you ohm check the Start/Stop and lanyard buttons carefully. Also check over all the Yellow connections.

    When the engine is running, is it charging the battery (voltage above 13.5 volts)?

  7. #7
    hey iam trying to do bypass test but i dont get the non-lr black/white wire, where is that from?

  8. #8
    If your LR 505 Module is bad would you also loose power to the display screen? I did the bypass and it started just want to verify before I purchase one.

  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dean093 View Post
    If your LR 505 Module is bad would you also loose power to the display screen?

    I did the bypass and it started just want to verify before I purchase one.
    The display has a separate fuse.

    It should work regardless of the LR module good, bad, removed.

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