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  1. #1
    lets race.... mikeFZR's Avatar
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    FZ hull reinforcement

    I've been planning a hull reinforcement for my fzr for some time and I thought I would share what I have so far. I plan on using aluminum because it is light weight, won't rust, easy to cut, and is bendable. You can see the cardboard cutout of where I plan on doing the reinforcement (except inside the hull of course). I chose this spot after much research. I have almost every picture posted on GH of FZ cracked hulls and they are all in this spot. I think it is because this spot is flat and cannot spread out the impact of the water well. As of now I am planning on securing the aluminum with 3M 5200 because of its high-strength properties. The aluminum reinforcements should firm up the area and prevent cracking caused by over flexing on impact.

    As of now I don't have too many concerns, I am just debating what to use for the application process but like I said, I am leaning towards 3M 5200.

    Before I go and install these on my ski does anyone have any input/ concerns/ experience/ etc

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    and that's a greenhulk.net sticker hiding in the back of the ski


  2. #2

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    Quote Originally Posted by mikeFZR View Post
    I've been planning a hull reinforcement for my fzr for some time and I thought I would share what I have so far. I plan on using aluminum because it is light weight, won't rust, easy to cut, and is bendable. You can see the cardboard cutout of where I plan on doing the reinforcement (except inside the hull of course). I chose this spot after much research. I have almost every picture posted on GH of FZ cracked hulls and they are all in this spot. I think it is because this spot is flat and cannot spread out the impact of the water well. As of now I am planning on securing the aluminum with 3M 5200 because of its high-strength properties. The aluminum reinforcements should firm up the area and prevent cracking caused by over flexing on impact.

    As of now I don't have too many concerns, I am just debating what to use for the application process but like I said, I am leaning towards 3M 5200.

    Before I go and install these on my ski does anyone have any input/ concerns/ experience/ etc

    Click image for larger version. 

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    and that's a greenhulk.net sticker hiding in the back of the ski
    mike what I would do is to extend the plate even further to the sides l&r going past the rear tie down bracket and bolt it through the two holes where the tie down bolts go through the hull also! use 1/4 " alum and just maby a of nice ss bolts through the hull on the upper and lower corners on the inside along with the 5200 should help too!Tommy Jordan

  3. #3
    lets race.... mikeFZR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2fast4u View Post
    mike what I would do is to extend the plate even further to the sides l&r going past the rear tie down bracket and bolt it through the two holes where the tie down bolts go through the hull also! use 1/4 " alum and just maby a of nice ss bolts through the hull on the upper and lower corners on the inside along with the 5200 should help too!Tommy Jordan
    Its funny you mention that Tommy, I was actually thinking of extending the plate so I could use the rear tie down to bolt it through. I don't think I will put ss bolts through the hull to secure the plate in place... I am a little uncomfortable doing that.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mikeFZR View Post
    Its funny you mention that Tommy, I was actually thinking of extending the plate so I could use the rear tie down to bolt it through. I don't think I will put ss bolts through the hull to secure the plate in place... I am a little uncomfortable doing that.
    I supect that if you don't use a small 8mm or 5/16 ss bolt w/self locking nut through the hull on the two inside corners along with the 5200 and the tie down bolts you will NOT get the addational hull strenth that you are look for. A nice ss button head bolt on the out side wont look that bad. Just be sure the two bolts are drilled with just enough clearance to get through the hull and plate. You don't want excessive clearance in the bolt holes, drill to fit! Tommy Jordan

  5. #5
    Vern's Avatar
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    Just sharing my take on this ... I reinforced the inner hull on my RXP after cutting out the 'feet' in the inner hull under the gas tank that pound on and crack the gelcoat on the outer hull. I used multiple layers of carbon fiber and fiberglass and West System epoxy resin (super strong stuff). Your situation is a little different, but I think the same basic thinking applies ... what I tried to do was to eliminate hull damage by spreading the stress over the largest possible area I could. I think you should do the same thing ...

    What I would personally do is to 'box' that whole area on both sides, not just the vertical part, but extend the reinforcement down well onto the bottom of the hull too, to spread the impact absorption into the horizontal (bottom) plane as well as the vertical plane. I would consider doing this either with wood and epoxy resin or carbon fiber/glass and epoxy resin, whatever you prefer to work with. If I was doing the reinforcement I would consider cutting plywood for the vertical portion, possibly bedding it into a 2x4 on the hull bottom (or L angle bolting it), or at least put a sheet of plywood on the hull bottom that the vertical plywood sits on ... depends on how much space you have back there to work with. Either way, I would cut and fit the wood bits until you are happy, then coat them with epoxy resin, then install them with more epoxy resin and possibly a few layers of fiberglass and epoxy resin over them, holding them in place.

    Another simpler method that would still give a very significant strength increase would be to just use multiple layers of carbon fiber, kevlar, or fiberglass cloth and epoxy resin instead of wood. Again, cut and fit the cloth, making it a big 'L' so that forces are spread over the hull bottom as well as side, then when the cloth lays in there well, clean the hull thoroughly with acetone or prepsol after a little roughing up/coarse sanding the surface, then epoxy in the layers of cloth.

    I am not sure that just putting a plate on the vertical surface is enough to prevent the back wall from flexing on a hard landing ... I would almost be concerned that the hull would still flex, putting the aluminum plate closer to the hull bottom, possibly hurting the hull bottom on a very hard hit that flexes the vertical wall. I really think that spreading the impact over two planes (bottom and side) by using something that ties side and bottom together would yield the most structural strength. Just my two cents ... whatever method you choose, I think your idea of reinforcing that area is a good idea.

  6. #6
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    Why does it need to be reinforced again?

  7. #7
    lets race.... mikeFZR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hitman View Post
    Why does it need to be reinforced again?
    I do a ton of wave jumping for it is more of a sanity thing for me. If adding the reinforcemnt gives me peace of mind then it is worth it 100%. I am by no means saying that all FZ nanoxcell hulls will crack, rather, a little preventive insurance will go a long way.

    And Vern's alternitive seems to be a better solution. I would most likely go the kevlar/ carbonfiber route.

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    And Vern's alternitive seems to be a better solution. I would most likely go the kevlar/ carbonfiber route.[/QUOTE]



    this will be your best bet.. make sure you sand real good the are you will be laminating over with the kevlar or carbon fiber and use epoxy resin only..

    dont be like yamaha and glue a reinforcement to a smooth hull ( like the ones on the tunnel ) cause all it takes is a few wacks with a screw driver and hammer and they come right off. if they would have sanded the tunnel, the oem reinforcements would have bonded better on the fzr/s.


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  9. #9
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    Just FYI in case anyone is curious or wants more information and pictures, etc, the thread below has a lot of pics and details of what a few of us have done to our RXPs to prevent gelcoat cracks and hull delamination. If someone is contemplating doing some work with 'glass and epoxy resin for the first time, this thread might help answer some questions:

    http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/show...ent-Vern-style

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