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  1. #1

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    New to me Ultra's

    Apparently, I need to do 2 starters on this pair of 00 ultra's I just picked up.

    Guidance would be great guys. As would some simple pointers or things to check prior to pulling the starters. I heard they are kinda tucked away in there.

    The guy I got the ski's from bought 2 new cheapy starters and they lasted 3 for both.


  2. #2
    steve45's Avatar
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    You should look into installing primers so your Ultra starts quickly. If it starts in 2 seconds, you'll never wear out a starter. I've heard the cheapie starters are junk. I haven't done anything to the starter in my Ultra, but I just rebuilt the starters in my 750s. The brushes stuck on one, and I decided to both because I'm taking them on vacation and didn't want any trouble. I bought rebuild kits on Ebay for $30. Everything fit well, except the needle bearing was the wrong one. I used the old bearings and they work fine. There are a couple of versions of starters for the Ultra, make sure you get the right model year. (I think there is a piece on the crankcase that can be ground off to make the wrong one fit).

    If you install primers, DO NOT remove the chokes! If you do, the carbs will run uncontrollably lean and burn up the pistons/cylinders.

    Things to watch on your Ultras:

    Check the oil lines for cracking, getting brittle, etc. It would be a good idea to go ahead and replace them.

    Take out the multifunction display and seal the back where the wires go in with 3M sealant. The original seals are 10 years old and they will leak if you flip the 'Ski over. $$$$

    Install the triple pisser mod so you can monitor cooling water flow to each cylinder.

    Install a cooling water strainer to keep trash out of the cooling system.

    Oh, yea, do NOT try to convert the oil system to pre-mix!!! There is a balance shaft that uses 2 of the 5 ports on the oil pump. They will not get oil from pre-mix.

  3. #3
    witness140's Avatar
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    Swapping the starter was the first job I did on my ultra. Actually, the first job was troubleshooting. Found the start switch had the classic 'stuck' problem. That's what killed the starter for the PO in the first place. Fixed that with a pencil eraser, then moved on the changing out the starter.

    I bought a parts machine that had a good OEM starter, so I didn't go chinese. OEM is like 300 bucks. Chinese is 100 or so on ebay.

    Disconnect the positive starter lead from the electrical box. Then you will need an open ended 10mm wrench and or 10mm socket. You'll have to experiment with what works best for you with this job. I stood on the starboard side of machine and worked it two ways. One was with my left arm coming in from behind the starter. The other would be sitting up top with my left arm going back past the starter. Kinda bounced back and forth both ways.

    2 10mm bolts secure it. Starter is actually pressed into the mag case with an O-ring, and takes a bit of wiggling and pulling once the bolts are out. I did some prying with a flathead between the mag case and starter case while wiggling. Yeah - dropped tools quite a bit.

    Once the starter wiggles out - all the oil that is in the mag case is going to pour out. Be ready. Put rags down first - or be proactive and pump it out of the filler hole before you start the job.

    Putting the new starter in isn't too bad. Obviously connect the positive lead to the starter before you fish it in there. Push it forward into case. Feel for the bosses on crankcase to make sure they are aligning with the starter bolt lugs on the starter case. You can feel the gap between the starter case and mag case close up. Take a mental note before you take it apart how that joint feels when it's in position. That will help you know if you have the bolt holes lines up on installation.

    Then you want to fill the mag case back up. There is a sight glass. Clean it up good and use a flashlight/inspection mirror. It hold about 2 cups of 2 stroke oil. Fill it to mid-window. Keep machine in same attitude as it sits in the water if you want it to be accurate.

    Service manual will have you pull the entire engine. Way un-necessary. Just have patience and know it might take a little while.

    Also - check your start switch and be sure it wasn't the cause of your dead starter. For mine - I'd put lanyard in, hit start, and hear a click. I'd have the flashing battery icon with a good battery - even when I let go of starter button. If you still have the flashing light after releasing start button - yours is probably stuck. Next smoking gun is when you then hit the stop button - you hear the relay click again. That means it isn't releasing until you hit stop.

    Engines won't give you any trouble as long as you keep the cylinders oiled and cooled and not running lean. So make sure your carbs are clean, you have no induction leaks, your oil lines are good, and your cylinders are all flowing water through their pissers.

  4. #4

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    Thx guys, I'm pretty good mechanically. I'm a big boat guy so I'm not new to the whole fix it yourself crew.

    What triple pisser should I get?

    What primer kit should I get?

    Where is a good place for good starters?

    The PO said the china starters made it 3 weeks..maybe the switch stuck and burned them out.

    My gauges are done on both..the guy painted over them but left a small box cut out in the left lower portion. I'm assuming that is to keep a temp or oil light visible. I'm after a good pair but they appear to be about $600 for a pair of good used ones...not gonna do that. I'll wait for a parts boat.

    I have to do seats/grips/gauges/starters.

    I do like the idea of individual cooling lines to monitor. I've read a lot about how they are hard to start also.

  5. #5
    SplishSplash's Avatar
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    A hard to start Ultra has something wrong with it.
    Starting: Cold-Full choke and should start within 10 seconds. Even if it has sat for over a week.
    Warm: Instantly starts, no delay at all and no choke.

    If it takes more than that, then something is wrong. Plugged fuel filter, bad fuel pump, dirty carbs, missadjusted chokes.

    I have a 2000 and its still on the original starter. Now I did have the control box fail that looked like it was the starter, but it was not. I't would just quietly click, but the starter relay never got power.

    They sound like they have bee neglected, probably need a carb overhall and cleaning.

  6. #6

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    I think I found a problem I might have to back out of this deal.

    The starters are out already. On one I can finger out metal shavings out of where the starter bolts into.

    is this a nightmare waiting to happen?

  7. #7
    Pull the stator cover off and clean it out.

  8. #8

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    Can you give me a run down on how to do that?

    If I clean this all out is this going to be a problem? or are the shavings confined to the stator/starter area?

    I just don't want this ruining the engine.

    After I wiped out the collar the starter was in I couldn't get any more shavings on my fingers..looks as if it was all on the collar.

  9. #9
    witness140's Avatar
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    Is there any chance that when you were removing the starter you wiggled it a lot on the way out - and it was just shavings from that process?

    As far as gauges go, check ebay. I have one here that works, but I need to get 250 for it. Otherwise its just not worth selling, since I know someday I might need a set for my ski as well.

    I posted in the other thread you have going on some other stuff, but if you saw the checkvalve we are talking about in that case - and you weren't 100% sure that the shavings were confined to the case where the starter mounts up - you would be concerned too.

    If that checkvalve gets plugged, the #1 cylinder does not get all the oil it deserves. So either run premix and at worse be fouling plugs more often, or take the chance and maybe do a #1 cylinder down the road.

    Where to get starters? If you want chinese - you can buy them all day on ebay. If you want OEM, occasionally there are some on ebay. Or fork out the $300 for a new OEM starter from a parts house. Or grab a parts machine with an OEM starter and good set of gauges.

    Scroll down in this post for some FYI on starters. Depending on where you source your new starters from, this may come into play for you.

    http://ultra150.yuku.com/topic/2494?page=1

    Triple pisser? you can get them from skiworx for 75 plus shipping, but good luck getting in touch with him. The kit is pretty simple. There is a thread going here that has some info that might help you put it together yourself if you dont want to spend so much or wait for something so simple.

    http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/show...ripple-pissers

  10. #10

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    Thx Witness140. I have 2 used OEM starters for about $50 each I can get ahold of. 1 set of 38hr gauges for $200. I need both seats recovered also. The guy has a great seat for $150 but that sound a bit much. I'm sure I can have each recovered for $100 or less but all that stuff is semi local. The guy has a 02 with no engine but wants $1100 for it. I can't do that. It wouldn't take care of my issues fro both anyways.

    I'd be in interested in your gauges for $200 if they work and look right.

    On the starter thing, I didn't feel anything on the inside of the housing with my finger. All the crap was on the collar/lip where the starter slides in. I don't know what caused this but his mechanic said the cheap starters are a machine fit and that is what the metal came from.

    I guess I could try and feel in there deeper for anything on the gear seat but it was like it stopped at the collar. It was a whole bunch right there and nothing after. I guess I could run some lighter premix for a tank or so and see what happens.

    Can I monitor that check calve?

    thx for all your help.....this is the type stuff that makes things soo much easier.

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