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  1. #1

    '96 SLX Bogging problem

    I have a '96 SLX that idles great but will start to accelerate when you open the throttle but then boggs...if you let up on the throttle it will fall regain a good idle speed. The carbs and fuel pump were rebuilt and the compression is 100 on all three cylinders. Where should I try?


  2. #2
    ph2ocraft's Avatar
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    pwcgeek, WELCOME to the green hulk forums!!

    Try this little test, pull the choke while accelerating and see if this cures your problem. If it does you know you're running lean and there are some things to check. Let us know what you find!!

  3. #3

    Bogging problem

    Pulling the choke didn't reduce the bogging but I noticed something strange. With the choke pulled the ski would still idle and not flood out. I verified that the butterflys were closing.

    In my original description I left out that I checked the reed valves and they look new.

    I also swapped out the CDI with another unit and saw no change. Could this be a stator issue...how could I check?

  4. #4
    ph2ocraft's Avatar
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    What do the plugs look like, very white in color??
    Check for vacuum leaks?
    Trim the spark plug wires and screw the caps back on
    Check all fuel lines for kinks

  5. #5

    Polaris bogging problem

    I tried clipping the plug wires, blocking off the oiler and using premix, checked for vacumn leaks and any fuel blockage...still have same problem. My plugs are new but have gotten a beige color. I also discovered today while running with water hose connected, that the front cylinder gets hot rather guickly while the other two are cool so I'm now not sure what is going on with that as well.

    This gets interesting as I just heard of another person with an '01 versus '96 Polaris that is having the same problem. They have alread replaced fuel and vacumn lines, carbs, plugs wires and coils but still have the problem. This is crazy!!

  6. #6
    jcc011185's Avatar
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    maybe it's going into limp mode...? you can open up your black metal electrical box, and pull the grey wire going to the CDI (pull both grey wires and tape them up if you are not sure) and see if it fixes the problem... if so, then you are going into limp mode.. Limp mode as far as I know occurs when the CDI it gets a temperature, oil, or fuel fault signal. The most likely occurance is a bad fuel float constantly reading an empty signal. (VERY common on the older skis, as the floats become logged with fuel and sink constantly) On your MFD, when your tank is full of fuel, do you read all bars to the left? You said you have already blocked off the pre-mix, did you disconnect the oil sender? if it is still connected it would read an empty signal if the tank is now empty. Also your temperature sensor could be fouling and sending a bad signal (brown wire)...

    Also, from what I know, the front cylinder running hotter than the others on the hose is normal... someone else can verify this though...

    Just something else to look into... I know that they bog real bad when in limp, seem like running on one or two cylinders, but they idle fine, it's when you give them gas they the evidence occurs...

    Jared
    Last edited by jcc011185; 10-26-2006 at 06:17 PM.

  7. #7
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    When you use the flushing kit on the water rail, the front cyl. runs hot quickly. I think the other two cyls. are stealing all the cool water before it reaches the mag cyl. Try removing the cooling hose from the jet pump inside the hull, and hook up the garden hose to it using an adapter. All the cylinders run cool with that set up instead. It's the normal way the engine routes the cooling water.

  8. #8

    '96 SLX Bogging Problem

    Ok, I disconnected the grey wire but that didn't fix the problem. I think that eliminated the possibility that it could be a fuel sender, temperature or oil sender issue...is that correct?

    Is it possible that the stator or something else electrical is breaking down with increased throttle? It really seems like you're unplugging the kill switch almost as soon as you increase throttle..it will increase rpms briefly, maybe one second then seem to die but resume idleing if you let up on the throttle.

  9. #9
    jcc011185's Avatar
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    Maybe your carb adjustments are off... here is what they should be for your ski:

    Low Speeds 1-3/8

    High Speed 1-1/8 mag carb, 7/8 center carb, 1-1/4 PTO carb

    This is what I am doing right now with my sl780... to they may be set off... but all you need to do is turn all of them clockwise until they seat lightly... then back them up counterclockwise the amount the numbers above indicate. For example... to adjust your low speed jets... you'll clockwise all three of them until they stop lightly, then back each of them up 1 and 3/8's a turn. Your low speed screws are the ones lower on the carb with the "t" handle and your high speed screws are the ones with the flap plastic cap on the top of the carbs facing the front of the boat. The plastic caps slide off, and you can see a flat head screw adjustment, then you can begin to adjust. It's something else to look into, if you don't get anything else, at least you'll know you have the correct stock settings. Also, verify that your throttle cable is moving the butterfly valves exactly veritcal when you press the throttle all the way in, and that they shut completly horizontal when you let off the throttle. Maybe you injested some water through the carbs at some point? You can (on the trailer) tilt the ski all the way back where the front of the boat is in the air. Then, if you know where your fuel pump is, there is a pulse line that connects to the bottom of the engine on the right hand side... you can pull this hose (only one actually going to the engine,the other three go to each carb) Anyway, you can pull this hose, and pull the lanyard from the ski so it'll turn but not start, and crank the engine until you can see minimal liquid pumping from the port (it'll pump out any gas/water that has settled in the bottom of the engine. Then re-connect the hose, and it'll be a little hard to start at first, but just pull the choke and press the start button until it starts then let off. Sounds like your carbs are either set not right, maybe bad reeds, or you may have ingested some water... but I'll let other's input as well, it just sounds that way to me.

    Jared

  10. #10
    Seems like its not getting gas, Id start at the tank and work my way back,
    Clean the tank out, fuel seprater, pump, then carbs.
    I also have a spark checker that goes between the spark plug and cap so you can see if the sparks cutting out under load. most shop have them and maybe you can borrow one. you need to see if its spark or gas.

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