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  1. #1

    '02 GTX RFI electrical issues

    This is everything that has happened, so you know the history:

    Bought this ski a month ago. Previous owner had to replace starter relay, had a shop do it. I had to replace the Rectifier/Regulator right off the bat... Took it out twice, ran great, except for tipping it over each time and filling engine bay up with water. Pulled plugs, cranked out water, fired right up afterward and ran fine. Then I took it out last week and got a "12v fragile" code at the end of the ride, seemed to only happen at high rpm.

    So i noticed the wires going to the starter relay box had been rigged, the shop extended them all, and used just cheesy crimp-on splices. So i took some off and soldered them properly and used heat shrink, not all but i did a few, hoping the problem was just high resistance.

    Saturday I got the code again, kept riding and it finally died, inspected, found popped fuse... the one that's inline of the red wire coming from the Rectifier. That wire has two splices. So I'm hoping maybe just from getting wet, the splices are causing too much resistance and made the fuse get hot.

    Does that sound logical ? or is there anything else I need to look at ? I know from reading on here that the RFI's are power hungry, so i'm hoping once I fix that wire properly things will be happy again.


  2. #2
    So i get home from work, throw the batter on the charger. I wanted to make sure I didn't damage anything else. I install the lanyard, i get the normal 2 chirps, but nothing happens when I hit start. The display came up normally, but absolutely nothing happens when I hit start, no sounds, nothing. Any ideas ? That fuse from the Rectifier was pretty fried when i pulled it out. Did i possibly burn up something else ? No other fuses are blown.

    Here's a pic of the wiring in the back, so you can see what I was talking about

  3. #3
    RumRunnerRon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MadMtnMikey View Post
    So i get home from work, throw the batter on the charger. I wanted to make sure I didn't damage anything else. I install the lanyard, i get the normal 2 chirps, but nothing happens when I hit start. The display came up normally, but absolutely nothing happens when I hit start, no sounds, nothing. Any ideas ? That fuse from the Rectifier was pretty fried when i pulled it out. Did i possibly burn up something else ? No other fuses are blown.

    Here's a pic of the wiring in the back, so you can see what I was talking about


    Well that box looks like it's been flooded badly. Two chirps but no crank? Is that right? If it is re inspect the solenoid and the signal it receives from the computer. Just because it was replace doesn't mean it is still good after all the flooding. Make sure all your fuse holders are good as well. Sitting in water will corrode the heck out of them.

  4. #4
    Ok, figured out the no starting issue... It was weird... The 4 amp fuse was blown back there , I just didn't notice it the first time, I swapped it and no change... Then I read my stator for the heck of it. between each leg i had .5 ohms, and two legs to ground were 1 ohm, the third leg was .8 ...... When i plugged the rectifier back up, she decided to crank.... I'll blame a ghost for that one.... Anyway, yeah I need to clean that box out and fix the rest of those wires. I believe this problem started from one of those splices getting corroded maybe. I'm working on soldering that one I mentioned right now.

    Thanks for the response, much appreciated

  5. #5
    RumRunnerRon's Avatar
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    Yeah anytime you get water in the engine compartment like you have you should inspect any and all electrical boxes. Including the vts and get it all dried out. It can save a lot of hassles.
    Thanks for the re

  6. #6
    Gotcha, will do on that one... I also have some Permatex silicon di-electric grease, I'm coating all connections and fuses with it.

  7. #7
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    more importantly when you put the electric box back togther make _sure_ the gasket is seated correctly and all the clips on the cover are in place ( wouldn't hurt to give a little grease to the gasket either)

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by nmpeter View Post
    more importantly when you put the electric box back togther make _sure_ the gasket is seated correctly and all the clips on the cover are in place ( wouldn't hurt to give a little grease to the gasket either)
    Pete, i would do that, but if you look at my pic, where the wires exit the box, the boneheads that replaced the solenoid and rigged those wires didn't put the water-tight fitting back (I'm assuming there was one).... and one of the clips on the lid is broken, so i have to rig it with a zip tie.... Maybe I'll look into replacing the box, but I have a feeling it's probably very pricey

  9. #9
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    we;; bonehead crap aside, make it as good as you can, cause you know what is at stake those waterproof fittings aren't all that pricey

  10. #10
    I'm going to research getting that fitting locally... I found something else dissapointing last night though.... I ran the ski for a minute or two to flush it because I didn't get a chance to when it died on the water... I decided to check the charging voltage for some reassurance, and it was only at 12.69, climbing slowly.... The electrical smell was still strong also.... Anyway, I found that the plug on the motor going to the stator did not look healthy, the black wire was a little crispy close to the connector..... Can those connectors be purchased with new pins ? I started to think maybe I found the smoking gun to the problem, maybe water got in there and shorted the plug...

    Ughhhh, I'm learning a big lesson on this one. The positive side is I'm getting familiar with the ski and working on it.

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