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  1. #1

    Unhappy 2001 GP1200R Running then bogging down and dying?

    Ski will start right up and will seem to run forever on the hose out of the water on the trailer. Then when in the water riding it, it will run for a few minutes and then it will bog and die out. Try to restart it right away and nothing almost like the battery is completely dead. Let it sit a minute or so and it will sometimes fire right up and go again, or run bogged out like it doesn't want to go over idle and just bog and die out right away again.

    One time it did this today the battery was completely killed, and when I hooked the charger up, the starter was stuck on even with the lanyard removed. Charged up another battery I had laying around, and as soon as I hooked it up, the starter was still stuck on. I unstuck it by plugging in the lanyard and pressing the start button and it returned to normal and heard the servo activate - did the low/dead battery glitch out the computer when trying to start it?

    Then I put it back in the water for the third time today with the other battery I had laying around, and the ski actually ran for much longer than the three minutes or so it was running before and finally bogged and died out again.... wouldn't start right back up like the battery was dead again. Let it sit a couple minutes and it cranked over and fired right up, but, was only able to limp back to the boat ramp at about 3mph and any harder throttle seemed to want to make it bog back out.

    Previous history -

    * Replaced the center cylinder and piston/rings due to a possible seizure that made the sleeve come loose (sleeve fell out when taken apart - now back to the stock plated cylinder on #2 - the other two cylinder are still sleeved) - head gasket was blown.

    * Carbs (and entire motor) where supposed to be rebuilt only 27/37 hours ago - seller had a receipt for the work.

    * When it's running, it seems to run ok, but wide open throttle seems to bog slightly then backing slightly off the throttle it picks up and pulls a little.

    Known mods -

    * Riva stage I kit
    * D-plate & resistor? (there's a resister or something in the plug where the sensor on the pipe would normally plug into)
    * Oil injection delete

    Am I possibly heat seizing a cylinder momentarily and it cools off and un-seizes? Is the fuel filter directly behind the front compartment suppose to be filled to the top with fuel? It doesn't seem to fill all the way to the top where the lines plug into. I'll never buy used again I'll tell you that much, lol, I could hang myself right now.... $1500+ in parts, and it's still not remotely right. Someone !


  2. #2
    Any ideas before I have to swim 700+ lbs of ski across the river again? I going to try to change the fuel filter that's under the front hood although I think it's going to be more complicated then that. I can reach down the side while riding slow and feel warm water pissing out the side pissers on both sides so the water flow/cooling should be working correctly? I'm going to go clean the yard then change out the filter, check back here, and then possibly try it again in the water. Someone please help!

  3. #3

    Join Date
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    Riding it will not help, it can only make it (much) worse. Do not ride it anymore until you figure the problem.

    The fuel filter is not always 100% full. You should check for trash.

    Warm water in the pissers is fine. No water while rideing is a problem.

    "Am I possibly heat seizing a cylinder momentarily and it cools off and un-seizes?" YES

    Check your cylinder compression useing a good compression tester and a good testing technique. The pressure on each cylinder should be within (about) 10 psig of the other two. I do not believe mixing and matching sleeved and stock cylinders is a good idea, but do not know for sure.

    Look at your plugs to see if the coloration is relatively the same. This may help you figure which is the offending cylinder.

    Let us know.

  4. #4
    fatrat's Avatar
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    what is happening to you just happened to me a few days ago i have post up here titled dropped a cylinder, you go check out my carnage not a pretty site. My ski died and bogged out then restarted i got it back to the ramp #1 piston had let go. Hope yours isn't like that but best of luck.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by fatrat View Post
    what is happening to you just happened to me a few days ago i have post up here titled dropped a cylinder, you go check out my carnage not a pretty site. My ski died and bogged out then restarted i got it back to the ramp #1 piston had let go. Hope yours isn't like that but best of luck.
    I started it up this afternoon on the hose and the motor was knocking badly, sounded like by the 3rd cylinder. Got my compression gauge and front and center where at 118psi and as soon as I took the 3rd plug off I noticed the electrode was pushed in! Looked down the plug hole and seen a hole punched through the piston! The added torque on the piston when it was seizing (if it was actually seizing) must of cracked the piston around the wrist pin and allowed it to hit the spark plug. How else could the piston hit the spark plug!?

    Man oh man the shop that rebuild this motor and carbs 37 hours ago must really be a botch job sideshow! Lacey powersports in NJ http://www.laceypowersports.net/about_us.html, anyone ever heard of them? First the 2nd cylinder's sleeve just falls out with no effort! I don't know what to do with this thing. What could be causing it to keep seizing? Is there a place to buy used parts? If I where to replace the other two sleeved cylinders with new plated cylinders that would be over $1000 in parts not counting new pistons/rings and shipping and then who the hell knows if it's going to stay together. I remember back with the only machine I ever had sleeved from the stock electroplating (95 KX100) I had to go two steps up on the main jet because it would heat seize (but it didn't damage anything, I just upped the main jet two steps and all was good from there on out). Does the jetting have to be adjusted for steel sleeves coming off the stock electroplating? And why do all re-builders seem to use steel sleeves over the stock electroplating? Isn't the electroplating better than steel sleeves? Or is the steel sleeves just the cheap way out?

    I had a weird idea about why it would keep stalling out, I thought that maybe the resistor that goes into the heat sensor when you delete the catalytic converter might be loose/bad connection and once you get out on the water bouncing, it would randomly loose connection and kill the motor. What would happen if you disconnected the resistor on the heat sensor plug while riding it? Wouldn't it shut the machine down if the computer detected no signal from the sensor?

    I'm 100% lost here... I'm now $1600 in parts on top of the piece of crap ski and it's still no good. The guy that sold me the ski had a receipt for $2200 to rebuild the motor/carbs. Now I have $1600 in parts on top of that to try to get it running (both the impeller and coupler shaft stripped out! Bad motor alignment by the shop?)

    My father will be doing the work on it, he wants to totally take it out and break it down to every single stinking piece right down to the crank and check out every single part in the motor. He said within the next few days he'll start on it and I'll try to get some pics up here of the internal damage.

    Man oh man I have a 94 VXR 650 and it's been rock solid all summer long, starts right up and goes and never once did it ever have a problem! And it only cost $800 with a trailer and this GPR I now have 5 grand total into it and it's total junk and doesn't even run! Never EVER will buy used again!

  6. #6
    Tommy Pantsdown's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Emig5m View Post
    Man oh man I have a 94 VXR 650 and it's been rock solid all summer long, starts right up and goes and never once did it ever have a problem! And it only cost $800 with a trailer and this GPR I now have 5 grand total into it and it's total junk and doesn't even run! Never EVER will buy used again!
    I feel your pain man. I've sat on the ramp working on my ski many times while my buddy and I laugh at the old pos skis out running all day, every weekend.

    Just remember that feeling once you blow by one.

  7. #7
    here`s the flip side.
    common practice should be, always have a fully charged battery, start your ski on the trailer BEFORE you back down the ramp and realize your POS will not fire causing the ramp to get locked up...

    I witnessed 2 baffoons with older ski`s that look like they should have been brought out to sea and made into a fish reef not do this and caused havoc on the ramp... when the one bozo did get his ski to fire he did it in shallow water and ingested debris and kept right on the throttle full blast from the bulkhead.... YEAH, that`s how ya do it...lol... wonder how much longer that will continue to run...

    as far as buying any used machine, KNOW what you are buying and water test if possible or buyer beware... there could be several scenario`s on the above story as to what was repaired and why regardless of receipts.

    OP, good luck with your rebuild, post some pics...

  8. #8
    Moderator DrewNJ's Avatar
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    Are you saying that Lacy built that motor and used a mix of sleeved and nic'd cylinders??
    Most of the locals in the know stay far away from Lacy, but I didn't think they were doing stupid shit like that...

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by DrewNJ View Post
    Are you saying that Lacy built that motor and used a mix of sleeved and nic'd cylinders??
    Most of the locals in the know stay far away from Lacy, but I didn't think they were doing stupid shit like that...
    No, I had to replace the 2nd cylinder because it was toasted with 40psi of compression. Once the cylinder was taken out, turning it upside-down the sleeve just FELL out!! Aren't these things suppose to be PRESSED in with a press? So anyway I ordered a brand OEM cylinder to replace it. I never cared much for steel sleeving motors that where plated stock.

    Instead of having my father fix it (he's free labor as he's retired and nothing better to do with his time, just supply parts and he's not bored and has something to do) but I really just don't have any faith in this motor/model of ski. He's pulled free skis out of the garbage and had them up and running in a couple weeks... I'm even thinking of taking it to Island Racing in Long Island and just having it done by a professional shop, is Island Racing any good? Can anyone recommend a good shop in the New Jersey area that I can trust it will be done right once completed (including carb tuning). But all these posts about GPR problems are just scaring the hell out of me! I put more money into it, and then what, it blows again within 30 minutes of riding it!? This seems like a very troublesome make/model from reading through these forums the past couple of days.

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Emig5m View Post
    No, I had to replace the 2nd cylinder because it was toasted with 40psi of compression. Once the cylinder was taken out, turning it upside-down the sleeve just FELL out!! Aren't these things suppose to be PRESSED in with a press? So anyway I ordered a brand OEM cylinder to replace it. I never cared much for steel sleeving motors that where plated stock.

    Instead of having my father fix it (he's free labor as he's retired and nothing better to do with his time, just supply parts and he's not bored and has something to do) but I really just don't have any faith in this motor/model of ski. He's pulled free skis out of the garbage and had them up and running in a couple weeks... I'm even thinking of taking it to Island Racing in Long Island and just having it done by a professional shop, is Island Racing any good? Can anyone recommend a good shop in the New Jersey area that I can trust it will be done right once completed (including carb tuning). But all these posts about GPR problems are just scaring the hell out of me! I put more money into it, and then what, it blows again within 30 minutes of riding it!? This seems like a very troublesome make/model from reading through these forums the past couple of days.
    lol... you should visit the seapoo side or the kawi forums...
    almost sounds like that engine is a SBT reman...
    as far as finding a repair shop, hmmm do your "research before dropping any machine off for repair... it can sit in any shop for months, even years... nothing more aggravating then not having phone calls or emails returned or just being ignored... we have heard many nightmares here...

    this is a jet ski forum and most people are here to help diagnose their issues regardless of make, model year... I doubt many are here just to talk about what color panties they are wearing. what you don`t read about is all those ski`s out there with hundreds of hours, yes, gpr`s, xlt`s, SUVs etc as far as 2 stroke...
    This is also a performance forum where the ski`s are being modded and ran on the edge...
    It is a shame what your going thru, but you should have really known what you are buying, if you had bought a well running ski, you wouldn`t be posting negative about the gpr`s...

    just learning that lacey power sports worked on that ski would have been good enough to walk away from this one...
    why couldn`t you have just purchased used cylinders? an OEM new is quite expensive...

    since you rode dirt bike back in the 80`s, I`m going to assume your in your 30`s? so why don`t you learn and repair it yourself?

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