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  1. #1
    "just sayin".. jetdave56's Avatar
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    exhaust bolts loosened and one came out...is it common?

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    When I got back from riding I notice a bolt missing and the stay bracket bolts loose...I had used blue locktite and torque to spec when I did work on the ski...Is it common for a 2 stroke ski with the amount of vibration they give off to loosen up over time...or is it another issue..I ALWAYS check hoses, clamps etc. before I go out...hmm...


  2. #2
    fenn's Avatar
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    I've had my exhaust bolts come loose dave. There is so much vibratation on them

    I've hadthe top 2 nuts holding the stinger on come loose a few times and also i had the 2 bolts that bolt the stinger bracket to the cylinders come loose. actually had one break in the cylinder and had to be drilled out.

    The top nuts i just tighten the shit out of and put locktite on the threads and the bottom ones i still torque to spec.

    i go through and torque them all a few times during the year

  3. #3
    oh boi!
    you both know you need to pull in the stinger in multiple directions when tighten the bolts correct?
    use RED loctite and torque to spec. the 2 bolts in the bottom bracket to cylinder and the single bolt at the rear are tightened first in sequence...

  4. #4
    Happily Self-Employed WFO's Avatar
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    I use red loctite and 35ft lbs on the M10 bolts

  5. #5
    "just sayin".. jetdave56's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WFO View Post
    I use red loctite and 35ft lbs on the M10 bolts

    yeah i'm switching to the red...and checking torque specs before I go out.....but what happened to that bolt...went fishing under the engine with my magnet extension...you always catch something(sockets)..Lowes has only 30-40mm (need 35mm) 10m bolts..so i'll add a few washers to the 40mm..unless someone wants to sell me one and maybe a few others just in case...

  6. #6
    fenn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pale Rider View Post
    oh boi!
    you both know you need to pull in the stinger in multiple directions when tighten the bolts correct?
    use RED loctite and torque to spec. the 2 bolts in the bottom bracket to cylinder and the single bolt at the rear are tightened first in sequence...
    You bet, the red locktite would be a concern to me, that stinger winds up coming out usually once a year for some reason and red locktite can be a pain to break free even with heat.






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  7. #7
    fenn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jetdave56 View Post
    yeah i'm switching to the red...and checking torque specs before I go out.....but what happened to that bolt...went fishing under the engine with my magnet extension...you always catch something(sockets)..Lowes has only 30-40mm (need 35mm) 10m bolts..so i'll add a few washers to the 40mm..unless someone wants to sell me one and maybe a few others just in case...
    Ask Ambrose, I think he still has a few exhaust bolts that rattled out missing


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by fenn View Post
    You bet, the red locktite would be a concern to me, that stinger winds up coming out usually once a year for some reason and red locktite can be a pain to break free even with heat.






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    honest injun kev, I never had an issue with the red... and removing the stinger has been easy. just don`t apply the whole tube... even the case bolts require RED from the manufacturer...

    you can always apply direct heat to break down the bond if necc...

  9. #9
    SurfRider's Avatar
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    Dave, those bolts are STAINLESS Steel! You will NOT be able to find it with a magnet. You will have to fish around there or somehow tilt your ski on the trailer until it you can spot it and grab it.

    Do not put an odd size in with washers and ONLY use Stainless steel bolts or you will have bigger problems when they rust!

  10. #10
    SurfRider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fenn View Post
    You bet, the red locktite would be a concern to me, that stinger winds up coming out usually once a year for some reason and red locktite can be a pain to break free even with heat.
    If you are having problems removing them, the you are *not* using enough heat! Red loctite will release very easily once it is hot enough. On the Porsche blocks we Red loctite on the head studs. To remove them you use an acetylene torch to get the block hot enough (aluminum is a huge heat sink) to melt the loctite. If you keep a wrench on it while heating, it will suddenly start to give and that's how you know that you got it hot enough.

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