Thread: 1995 750 XI SS Starter problem?
09-27-2010, 04:30 PM #1
1995 750 XI SS Starter problem?
I purchased a 1995 750 XI SS and it was supposed to have a solenoid problem. What the heck for $100 you can't go wrong right! Well, the previous owner had removed and taken apart the electrical box (the one with the CDI, coil, etc). He said he "thought" it was the relay switch/solenoid that is inside the box to the right of the CDI.
The motor turns freely with the spark plugs removed, when put in you can't turn it. So it has at least some compression, likely compression is fine. You can hear the woosh sound coming from the spark plug holes as the piston comes up. When you jump the starter directly, all the lead does is just spark, there is nothing from the starter. Is this a 100% bad starter? I mean what else could it be when jumping the starter directly to the battery.
Is there a PDF manual on this model like i just downloaded for my ultra 150? I'd like to see how the starter comes out and the procedure for removal. Also, I'd love to know how that relay/solenoid inside the electrical box goes back in and how it wires up since all of that was disconnected.
One more question, once the starter is pulled out, is this a dry area or is it oiled like on the ultra 150? I mean I'd like to know if when I pulled it out I'm going to have to replace oil and how to as well.
Any input would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks in advance!
09-27-2010, 09:20 PM #2
I just finished doing starters on a couple of 750s. I bought kits from a guy on Ebay, named caltric. The brushes and seals all fit perfectly, but the needle bearing for the drive end was incorrect for both. I ended up re-using the old bearings. The kits were about $30, with shipping. I'd recommend going that route. If you find that your starter is burned up inside, I'd buy a used Kawasaki starter on Ebay for $50 or so, rather than buy one of those Chinese starters (heard bad things about them).
To remove the starter, there are two screws that hold it to the block (10 mm socket), as well as the ground wire (10 mm socket). Remove the red starter cable from the CDI box and pull it out with the starter. You'll have to tug on the starter, as there are O-rings (could be one or two) on the drive end. You can pry it with a short screwdriver. The rebuild kit only comes with one O-ring, so if yours has two, buy a second on at the hardware store.
There is no oil in the starter drive as there is on the Ultra.
If you want to send me a PM with your email address, I can send you a pic of the CDI box. I've got two of them opened up on my workbench, and I think one has all the parts in it...
Can't help with the manual, I'd like to get one myself.
09-27-2010, 10:21 PM #3
09-27-2010, 11:27 PM #4
Thanks again steve! For helping both on my ultra thread and this too! Yes if you could email me some pictures that would be great. I can see how it goes into the box from the ebay picture, but there are grommets and white plastic pieces in a zip lock bag that I'm not sure where they go. There is also a small gauge red wire that has a ring terminal (looks to either connect directly to the battery perhaps with the large gauge main positive cable? Or perhaps it connects to one of the terminals on the relay, I'm unsure. Then there are the two main cables that connect to the relay. The end of the relay that has the yellow with red stripe wire going into it, I presume that is the switch side, and the other is 12v from the battery?
I'll PM you my email.
10-04-2010, 09:13 PM #5
Ok this thread is not dead! Got the new starter in, and low and behold the ski has no other ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS! It has spark, all the bells and wistles work, and the motor turns over BUT. Some ahole must have left the hose on on it with the engine not running because the exhaust muffler was full of water, and looks like there is a bunch of water in the motor it is just spitting out sludge. I've been Pumping and pumping all day, giving the new starter a break every now and then, and the battery a break by way of a jump starter. I've got them pretty dry, but there still seams to be that nasty green sludgy water/oil mess just enough to foul the spark plugs. It WILL fire but only for a second or two and they are still fouling.
What exactly is the procedure for evacuating ALL the water out and drying it out at the same time. I think my problem now is residual moisture that is coming back up when the cylinders are under compression. There is still moisture in there that I'm tryin my best to evacuate. The muffler and all the exhaust has been drained of water, the carbs look good does not look like water has been in them. It's just like a sludgy mess, it's green because the two stroke oil is green, and it appears to be a mixture of water and oil in the form of a sludge.
Anyway, like said it's "pretty" dry now, no more spitting out like it was, but still just enough mess to foul the plugs Advice? (other then just keep pumping it tommorrow when I get off work
10-04-2010, 10:46 PM #6
Water in the engine is BAD news! If it got into the cylinders or the crankcase, you've only got a day or so to get it out before permanent damage is done. If you have water in there, do this:
Remove and ground the spark plug wires. Remove the spark plugs and cover the holes with a towel to catch the spray. Crank the engine with the starter until it stops spitting out water. It will probably spray a little mist, which may be fuel. Wipe off the plugs and re-install them, install the wires. Try to start the engine. If it starts, it will probably run poorly, then die. Pull the plugs and clean them, re-install them and start again. Keep doing this until the engine runs.
The best thing to do is run the engine fairly hard in the water for 20 minutes or so. If you can't do this, run it on the hose for 20 minutes or so. This should flush out/burn out any moisture. Remember to turn off the flush hose before shutting off the engine!
10-05-2010, 08:06 PM #7
Alright, FINALLY managed to get all of the water/sludge out of there. And it started up and I ran it on the hose for about 15 minutes. It was able to get up to the rev limiter (of course only momentarily certainly not boucing off the rev limiter on the hose!), not overheating... reasonably running well with a few hickups and burps here and there. I'll just have to get it to the water and really run it to make sure ALL of the moisture inside is gone. Trim gauge and RPM gauge doesn't seem to be running... rpm gauge is stuck on 8,000 rpm and trim is stuck all the way up... anything to check for these? Haven't varified whether or not the trim is actually working or not, cuz the ski is sitting on the ground right now. But it does start and run, so that's one hurtle out of the way.
BTW the replacement starter I got was from ebay, it was a factory kawasaki one for $30 shipped (whole starter) and MAN did this thing take the ultimate test! It's probably revolved more in the past two days then it was intended for in it's life time and it just keeps on turning! (I'm impressed!) The old one was frozen completely up, so that was the problem. Relay in the box was fine of course.
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