Thread: how to winterize a 2004 MSX 150
09-28-2010, 04:40 PM #1
- Join Date
- May 2010
how to winterize a 2004 MSX 150
I bought a 2004 MSX 150 for the wife this summer and I ride a SJ so I have no idea what needs to be done to leave it on the lift this winter (Lake of the Ozarks MO).
09-28-2010, 07:30 PM #2
- Join Date
- Jul 2007
- near Toronto, Canada
MSX 150 and MSX 110 Winterizing / Storage instructions
Do you ride in salt or fresh water?
The closed loop cooling system should already have anti-freeze in the coolant. Check to make sure yours has the correct coolant.
From the Owner's manual;
Note: My own comments are in Red
If the watercraft will be stored temporarily (less than 30 days), perform the daily maintenance procedures beginning on page 67 and also perform the following
temporary storage procedures.
1. Block the seat (engine compartment) open about 1/2″ (1.3 cm) to provide air circulation and to prevent condensation from forming.
2. If the seat is saturated with water, stand it on end (aft end down) and allow it to dry out. To avoid damaging the seat covering, place a towel or similar item under the seat before placing it on the ground or floor. When dry, store the seat on the craft as outlined in step 1.
3. Check the screen in the jet pump stationary exit nozzle for plugging...
4. When storing the watercraft, make sure the nose is positioned upward at a 20 degree angle for drainage.
Actually, the higher the nose, the better. Those footwells are deep and will collect water.
The nose high attitude is also good for long term storage, and it encourages any water in the fresh water cooling loop to drain out.
Polaris recommends changing the oil and filter every 25 hours, or monthly, whichever comes first. Change the oil and filter more frequently under aggressive riding conditions and always change the oil before end-of-season storage.
When the watercraft will not be used for a month or more, preventive maintenance is required to keep components from deteriorating. An authorized Polaris dealer can do the required preventive maintenance or you can do it yourself with a minimum of tools.
NOTE: Fogging the engine is not required.
Hmmm - Really? Not sure I agree with this
Perform all of the procedures outlined in this section of your owner’s manual before storing the watercraft...
Flush the freshwater loop cooling system ...
Adjust Coolant/Water Ratio
If your watercraft is stored at temperatures below -26° F (-32° C), adjust the coolant to a higher concentration of propylene glycol. A 60% glycol and 40% de-ionized water mixture will provide freeze protection to -54° F (-48° C).
Always return coolant to the 50/50 ratio before operating the watercraft in conditions above -26° F (-32° C) as the more concentrated coolant may cause engine damage at warmer temperatures.
Add Fuel Stabilizer
1. Fill the fuel tank.
2. Start and briefly rev the engine (five seconds or less).
3. Add fuel stabilizer to the full fuel tank.
4. Reinstall the fuel cap, but leave it loose to prevent condensation from forming in the fuel tank.
I would suggest you add the fuel stabilizer first, then fill the fuel tank. Non-ethanol fuel is highly preferred. Use Marine grade Sta-Bil or similar.
Drain the Exhaust
Engine draining is automatic, but the exhaust system must be drained by revving the engine to expel excess water. To avoid engine damage, never operate the engine for more than five seconds while the watercraft is out of the water.
Note: Always select Reverse before stating the Weber turbo engine out of the water. Reverse mode limits engine RPM to 3500. Revving without reverse can allow very high engine RPM, so be careful.
The idea here is to use the engine exhaust blast to blow excess water out of the exhaust water box. It will take several firm but short throttle blips to get most of the water out. You will not get it all out, and that is OK.
It will take more than five seconds, but you should be all done in less than 15 seconds.
1. Lubricate the throttle and steering cables...
2. Lubricate all areas recommended in the maintenance section...
3. Remove and store the battery...
I would also suggest you should drain and dry the hull bilge area as best you can.
Apply a long lasting protective spray such as Fluid Film (not WD-40) to the engine exterior, and any other metal parts that you feel might benefit.
I highly recommend a proper boat cover, such as the official Poalris MSX cover. These covers will help keep much of the dirt and snow/ice off, but they are not waterproof. Some water will get through. The cover does breathe, which allows moisture to evaporate through the cover.
The best storage solution is covered and dry, even if it is not heated.
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