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  1. #1
    macdoo's Avatar
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    Just got my 2nd Virage

    Picked up my 2nd Polaris, a 01 Virage TXi. Traded a Macintosh G5 for it ....what was I thinking...LOL.
    Going to go over some of the same things I did on the 02 Virage i I got 2 weeks back. It loks like a much tighter fir and there is more stuff in there than just a 3rd piston. Will report more as I find it.

    What is the compression range for this model?


  2. #2
    macdoo's Avatar
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    Wow this looks nothing like the 800 inside. Did the brown wire to see if the fuel pump would come on but no dice. Need some help to locate the fuse for the pump. Don't think it is in the same place as the 800? I was told that if you pour cgas in the intake if will fire but the fuel pump is not working but if I can find the fuse maybe a fix..maybe. Unlike the 800 the TXi display never comes on when I hook up the battery like the 800. Don't know once it if it is running the didplay will show up?

  3. #3
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by macdoo View Post
    Picked up my 2nd Polaris, a 01 Virage TXi

    ...Going to go over some of the same things I did on the 02 Virage i I got 2 weeks back.

    It looks like a much tighter fit and there is more stuff in there than just a 3rd piston. Will report more as I find it.

    What is the compression range for this model?
    Just 3 cylinders instead of two, the larger flame arrestor and a different exhaust system.

    Quote Originally Posted by macdoo View Post
    Wow this looks nothing like the 800 inside.

    Did the brown wire to see if the fuel pump would come on but no dice.

    Need some help to locate the fuse for the pump. Don't think it is in the same place as the 800?

    I was told that if you pour gas in the intake it will fire but the fuel pump is not working but if I can find the fuse maybe a fix..maybe.

    Unlike the 800 the TXi display never comes on when I hook up the battery like the 800. Don't know once it if it is running the display will show up?
    Tip: 2001 Fuel Injected models have an electrical box, while 2002-2004 do not.

    There are two fuses inside, 3 Amp bilge pump and 1/4 Amp for the MFI display. Do not install higher rated fuses, replace with the same rating. Check fuses by carefully removing them and testing for zero ohms between the two ends.

    As always, there should be zero moisture or connection corrosion inside the electrical box.

    There should be two Reset buttons (circuit breakers) somewhere near the battery/solenoid/electrical box. Make sure both white Reset buttons are pushed down flush, not popped up.

    The fuel pump is powered by the Reset button that has a Red/White wire. The original part is rated for 5 Amps, but sometimes the fuel pump will repeatedly pop the 5 Amp breaker. If it does, replace with a 15 Amp Reset Button, just like the other 'main' one for the Red/Purple wires.

    These 'Reset Button' breakers can crack below the mounting nut, so check carefully for damage. Also sometimes they corrode internally, so there isn't full power available even though the button is pushed down.

    Start with checking the thin red wire connection at the solenoid. Make sure it is on the battery side of the solenoid, not the starter side. The wiring diagram shows the thin red wire connected at the battery positive post. In any case, make sure that thin red wire has full battery voltage on it.

    Also check ALL the engine grounds, including the heavy black battery cable to the engine block. Remove and clean that connection.

  4. #4
    macdoo's Avatar
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    I unpluged all connectors behinf the MFD and cleaned off the solenoid wires. reset some ov the wires fot the fuel pump reset button. Jumped the brown wire and after two tries it turned on. I did not check the psi yet but did take it to the lake. It crankrd up the MFD still not working or speedo but it ran and when I gave it gas it kind of wanted to go full out but would keep dropping off and slow down. I made about 6 4 mile loops and it keep getting better untill it was going full out. Fyi I put $25 of 97 oct. gas thinking it would help it run better. After the laps I took it out on more open water ant it wa going andf then it just slowed down and then stopped. I cranked it up and it ran then cut off did it a 2nd time and it stayed going. after maybe 5 min it seemed to slow down to that 3500 rpm thing I have read about. I hit the bilge button and it seem a lot of water came out. Once I got it on land I open the seat and looked down and it seemed like it was a bout 3/4 inch of water and that there had been maybe more water. There was a lot of water drops on the electrical box. I started it up and it seemed it was past the 3500 rpm.
    Any ideas on what happen today?

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by macdoo View Post
    I unplugged all connectors behind the MFD and cleaned off the solenoid wires. reset some of the wires for the fuel pump reset button.

    Jumped the brown wire and after two tries it turned on.

    I did not check the psi yet but did take it to the lake.

    It cranked up the MFD still not working or speedo but it ran and when I gave it gas it kind of wanted to go full out but would keep dropping off and slow down.

    I made about 6 4 mile loops and it keep getting better until it was going full out. Fyi I put $25 of 97 oct. gas thinking it would help it run better.

    After the laps I took it out on more open water ant it was going and then it just slowed down and then stopped. I cranked it up and it ran then cut off did it a 2nd time and it stayed going.

    after maybe 5 min it seemed to slow down to that 3500 rpm thing I have read about.

    I hit the bilge button and it seem a lot of water came out.

    Once I got it on land I open the seat and looked down and it seemed like it was a bout 3/4 inch of water and that there had been maybe more water. There was a lot of water drops on the electrical box. I started it up and it seemed it was past the 3500 rpm.

    Any ideas on what happen today?
    With ANY 2-stroke engine, it is risky to just 'push' it when it isn't running properly. The risk is highest with the carburetor engines, where a lean condition can melt a piston in seconds.

    With the fuel injected 2-stroke engines, lean burn is less of a concern, but still possible.

    Check everything over and get it all working before you go riding. There are good reasons for doing so.

    Check the fuel pressure. It is a known problem, and easy to check.

    The bilge pump is supposed to be running anytime the engine is running. The bilge button should only make a difference when the engine is not running.

    If the bilge pump doesn't run when the engine runs, find out why.

    Without a working RPM display, it would be hard to tell whether the engine was running at proper RPM at full throttle. Did you check the fuses in the electrical box? Is there voltage at the MFI Red/Purple wire?

    Since they are a known failure item, order a new TPS.

  6. #6
    macdoo's Avatar
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    What was the best year for a Virage TXi or Virage 800 DI?
    What is the speed difference between the two?

    I have the rail to them that go in a Shuttle craft that I was using a Seadoo GSX ltd in but I am done with the 951 carb motors.

    Is there a step by step trouble shooting on the MFD with pics for the Virage TXi?

    The TPS is at one end of the intake manifold? Is that what made my ski do the 3500 rpm thing?

    The buttons for the forward and reverse do not work when it is running or not running. How do I check it?


    Thanks

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by macdoo View Post
    What was the best year for a Virage TXi or Virage 800 DI?
    No big differences between the years for fuel injected Virages.
    2002+ has manual reverse, which I prefer over the PERC electric reverse.
    2002+ has no electrical box, everything is plugged directly into the wiring harness.
    Different hull colors...


    What is the speed difference between the two?
    Maybe 10mph, give or take. The 800 is fairly fast for a twin.

    I have the rail to them that go in a Shuttle craft that I was using a Seadoo GSX ltd in but I am done with the 951 carb motors.
    Be careful with any PWC pushing or pulling a large load like the Shuttlecraft barge. The engine can easily be overloaded by the high power required yet low forward hull speed. You may need to change to a lower pitch impeller to allow the engine to more easily rev up under the load.

    Is there a step by step trouble shooting on the MFD with pics for the Virage TXi?
    Not that I have.
    It is basic electrical troubleshooting. Battery voltage at the harness pins, etc.


    The TPS is at one end of the intake manifold?
    Correct, at the rear end.

    Is that what made my ski do the 3500 rpm thing?
    The 3500RPM limiter function is a very specific thing, and only comes into play under specific circumstances. When the limiter is operating, the engine/exhaust will make a grotty, rapidly pulsing sound as the EMM repeatedly cuts the ignition in and out to keep the RPM in check.

    Engine RPM can be held down by many other things that have nothing to do with the limiter.


    The buttons for the forward and reverse do not work when it is running or not running. How do I check it?...
    PERC electric reverse is usually an electrical troubleshooting issue.

    Start by holding the bilge button down. Bilge pump should run. Does the electric reverse also work while bilge button is held down? If yes, then the LR-503 module is the likely suspect.

    If not, then check for power and ground at the buttons, and at the motor.

  8. #8
    macdoo's Avatar
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    I got a 1/4 amp fuse and the MFD works now got the $10 NGK spark plugs and at the same time rechecked compression it was 135 133 125. I took it out and it ran great right out of the blocks made about (3) 4 mile laps. The display said [email protected] 6800 rpms I had a BIG smile ... then boom it dead;-( Cranked up and it ran then for a bit then cut off again now power this time at all. open the real seat to look down and see if the battery had come undone but it was all there. then tried it again and it started ran about 2 miles then it cut off for good. Got some one to tow me in. The red light did start just flashing but then it stopped. I drove to Auto zone and rented a fuel pressure set and there was 0 Hooked up the wire to the brown fuel pump wire and this time I could not get it to come on. The first time to tried this it did not come on but I cleaned off the small then wire that hooks to the starter solenoid and moved some of the wires that are hooked to the Fuel pump breaker. There does seem to be more water getting into the hull and I am not sure if that is part of the problem maybe it has found its way to the fuel pump breaker. Or maybe may be the old fuel pump day has come and it need to be replaced. then all is good. Is there a way to do the brown wire thing for Neg. and the jump a Pos. wire so it will force it to run or not then I would know before I go through

    http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthre...nside&p=852084

  9. #9
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    Just taking a guess. but it sounds like your computer may be overheating. try clearing out the cooling lines too and from the emm and clear out the emm itself. you should be able to see right through inside the emm from one cooling port to the other. make sure the mag cover is flowing water too

  10. #10
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by macdoo View Post
    ...took it out and it ran great right out of the blocks made about (3) 4 mile laps. The display said [email protected] 6800 rpms I had a BIG smile ... then boom it dead;-(

    Cranked up and it ran then for a bit then cut off again now power this time at all.

    ...tried it again and it started ran about 2 miles then it cut off for good. ...The red light did start just flashing but then it stopped.

    ...fuel pressure ... was 0

    Hooked up the wire to the brown fuel pump wire and this time I could not get it to come on.

    The first time to tried this it did not come on but I cleaned off the small then wire that hooks to the starter solenoid and moved some of the wires that are hooked to the Fuel pump breaker.

    There does seem to be more water getting into the hull ...

    Is there a way to do the brown wire thing for Neg. and the jump a Pos. wire so it will force it to run...
    Do check the water cooling circuit for the EMM. The water flows through the stator cover, then the EMM, then exits at the rear of the hull.

    Look for kinked lines, loose clamps, damaged or squashed hoses.

    The fuel pump is supposed to ALWAYS have battery power at the pump connector. If you do not have 12 volts at the fuel pump, then the circuit breaker needs to be checked.

    The fuel pump is turned on by grounding the Brown wire.

    The fuel pump connector has a small locking tab that slides sideways. Unlock the tab, then unplug the connector. Check for corrosion or wire damage.

    If you are getting water in the hull, investigate the through-hull bearing. The Virage hull has a black plastic fitting behind the through-hull rubber section that needs to be tight to the hull. If it works loose, then you will have a water leak.

    Grab the through-hull bearing, and try to twist and slide it on the drive shaft. If it moves around you have a leak there.

    Did you check the bilge pump yet? Is it running when the engine is running?

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