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  1. #1

    I have to disconnect the battery to kill the power to the dash-Polaris Genesis PWC

    I'm working on a friends Polaris Genesis ski. I can't find a main power switch and the dash stays active unless I disconnect the negative battery cable. I found a jumper wire spliced-in on the red/blue wire(s) going to the lanyard switch and/or starter button. I clipped the jumper and still have dash activity, but no starter motor. I read about a security code for ignition, but no real details in the article. Can anyone tell me what I can do, other than wire a main switch into the battery cable?


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Welcome

    The clock is always supposed to be visible. It doesn't run the battery down, uses almost zero power.

    The spliced wiring is a question. Exactly what was spliced? Photos?

    Is this engine fuel injected or carburetor?

    BTW, all Polaris PWC require a really strong battery. Old and weak batteries cause problems, even if they still crank the engine.

  3. #3
    Hey thanx for the help on this. The ski is carburated. It has a new (no-name, crappy, but new and fully charged) battery. The dash is very active. Starter motor cranks, starts with lanyard in. Battery goes flat in a couple days unless disconnected. On to the wiring...

    There's 2 red/prpl wires coming out of the electrics box in the engine compartment. The 1st one goes from the single wire connection at fuse in electrics box to the #2 pin on the 12 pin connector to the dash. This wire is in-tact, has continuity and voltage.

    The 2nd red/prpl wire comes off the multi-wire connection at the fuse in the electrics box. This loses continuity from somewhere between the engine compartment and behind the dash panel. It goes from a single red/prpl in engine compartment to 2 red/prpls behind dash. They go to the 2 and 4 pin connectors going to the Start/Stop button and the bilge pump. Without the jumper, no starter, no pump.

    Here's a link to pics with detailed descriptions. Cheers. http://s243.photobucket.com/albums/f...ARIS%20WIRING/

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by psyclepath1964 View Post
    ...The ski is carburated. It has a new (no-name, crappy, but new and fully charged) battery.

    The dash is very active. Starter motor cranks, starts with lanyard in. Battery goes flat in a couple days unless disconnected. On to the wiring...

    There's 2 red/prpl wires coming out of the electrics box in the engine compartment. The 1st one goes from the single wire connection at fuse in electrics box to the #2 pin on the 12 pin connector to the dash. This wire is in-tact, has continuity and voltage.

    The 2nd red/prpl wire comes off the multi-wire connection at the fuse in the electrics box. This loses continuity from somewhere between the engine compartment and behind the dash panel. It goes from a single red/prpl in engine compartment to 2 red/prpls behind dash. They go to the 2 and 4 pin connectors going to the Start/Stop button and the bilge pump. Without the jumper, no starter, no pump.

    Here's a link to pics with detailed descriptions. Cheers. http://s243.photobucket.com/albums/f...ARIS%20WIRING/
    I am having trouble getting a complete idea from your photos and description. Can you draw up a diagram of what is connected to what? And what wires have been cut or changed?

    My suspicion is that some wiring changes were made instead of a proper repair. The display may not be the item that is causing the battery drain.

    We need to first understand what has been changed in the wiring. Then we can figure out how to get it properly repaired and no longer draining the battery.

    Note: The 'big fuse' in the electrical box is supposed to be a 1/4 Amp fuse. Pull it out, check the rating. Then check with your ohmmeter that the fuse is zero ohms between the two ends. If the fuse is bad, replace with another 1/4 Amp fuse, not a higher rating.





  5. #5

    power draw

    I had one do this once and it turned out to be a short in bilge pump motor which did damage to the LR module causing a hot circuit all the time draining the battery.

  6. #6

    Hey thanks for that! Now I have another question...

    what's a LR module? I'm a Harley mechanic... oh, and can you tell me anything about this 'security code' that I read about in the Polaris propaganda? Probably won't have an affect on this ski, but I'm an info junkie. Thank you again for your help on this.

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by psyclepath1964 View Post
    what's a LR module? I'm a Harley mechanic...

    oh, and can you tell me anything about this 'security code' that I read about in the Polaris propaganda? Probably won't have an affect on this ski, but I'm an info junkie...
    What happened to the previous wiring oddities?
    Photos of the changed wiring?

    Did you restore the wiring to factory configuration?

    You can read up on the MFI security code via the MFD link from my signature. It simply prevents cranking if the MFI display is 'locked'.

    The LR module info is also to be found from my signature links. Worth spending some time reading up

    On your Genesis the LR module has several functions;
    - Controls battery charging voltage
    - Provides switched DC power to the bilge pump and some other things when the engine is cranking or running (Orange wire output) *
    - Responds to the Start/Stop button to either crank the engine or shut down ignition, depending on whether the LR module thinks the engine is currently running or not.

    * Often the Orange output also connects to the Red/Purple wire that powers the CDI module. This was implemented to get around a problem with some CDI modules where the engine would not start after it had been running (no warm restart).

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