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  1. #1
    dsw222's Avatar
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    New GPR owner's plan of attack

    A couple of weeks ago, I bought a 2000 GP1200R (my first ski) which reads 54 hours that i found on this forum. I have been reading all of the stickies and how-to's on here daily since I got it. So far the ski is mostly stock but the seller was nice enough to convert it to premix, add wave eater clips, add a D plate with chip, and clean the carbs/valves before selling it to me (thanks again birel!). And after I bought it, I stepped the sponsons. So most of the basics have been covered.

    I'm putting the ski into storage soon because its getting cold here in Pittsburgh, and I plan on stocking up on parts over the winter so I can start working as soon as it gets warmer in early spring. I will be riding on the three rivers here, so the ski will be seeing mostly calm waters. I am a bit hesitant of 2 strokes since I blew up BOTH of my SeaDoo jetboat's engines this summer a couple months apart... so my main concern of this project will be reliability. I dont want to do any major engine mods, i would just like to make the ski more aggressive and fun while still being reliable... so i dont have to spend any time during our short summers fixing the engine.

    I would love to hear some feedback as to whether I am making good choices on the parts for my goals, or if you would suggest something else to make it more reliable or cost-effective.

    Here is what I was thinking (in the order that i would do them)....

    R&D 1200 double bar grate
    skegged R&D ride plate with Jim's FF mod (this was his plate suggestion for my riding conditions)
    seal the pump shoe with a PPK
    solas concord 13/19 prop (is this a "necessary" mod? i.e. good gains vs cost)
    snow camo colored Hydroturf with the adhesive backing
    add a valve to the hose on the yamaha indicator spray
    lose 50 pounds
    cut open the front cowling for more air flow (only if this doesn't add a major risk for if the ski is accidentally flipped)
    disable the accel pump
    add a primer kit
    flame arrestor kit
    re-jet the carbs to the suggested setup on Bill's sticky (i am worried about the 4k-5k RPM seizures on this model)
    paint the front windscreen (paint type suggestions welcome)... or wait for Smitty to start selling carbon fiber windscreens

    How does that sound? Is there anything else that you would suggest? Does any of that seem unnecessary for my goals?

    I would consider the pump tunnel reinforcement, but i read that the 2000's was pretty strong... and i dont think these additions would get me into the speed ranges that need the tunnel mod

    I would really appreciate any feedback that you guys can give! Thanks!
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  2. #2
    , sounds pretty mild, But if you are going to add the grate and get better efficiency from the pump via better prop, then reinforcing the tunnel wouldn`t hurt, especially since you want to install one of jim`s plates which will increase speed on it`s own...
    I think most are going to say, go over all of your inserts and address any issues with them...
    replace the tunnel/drive shaft hose...if it hasn`t been done already...

    there is a risk of water ingestion with any flipping of the ski, just have to watch and be careful not to... The GPR likes fresh air, so the air mod is a good idea...
    the prop is your call, any aftermarket prop is more efficient than stock and you will feel the difference...
    good luck with your project...

    read up on the epoxy resin some used here for the PPK do it yourself mod... that looks like the way to go...
    add an electric bilge pump if there isn`t one in...

  3. #3
    rangermtb5's Avatar
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    I had my windscreen painted at an autobody place, the same place I had my hull painted. I had it painted black with a clear coat. Looks great!

    I had a couple of little things painted for like $100. Totally worth in IMO, plus i didn't have to do all the prep and whatever....
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  4. #4
    agsbill's Avatar
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    Replace the plastic steering nozzle with a aluminum one from a SHO....

    Here is a link to the thread....

    http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/show...ght=sho+nozzle

    Link to the part.

    http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/ya...313-00-00.html

    About $20.00 plus $6.00 shipping.

    Bill

  5. #5
    USCME's Avatar
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    Nice ski, and nice pic, I love river shots! That's great the previous owner already switched to premix, installed a D-plate, and waveeaters; that takes care of a lot of the reliability mods right off the bat.

    I picked up a 2000 gp1200r as my first ski before this season, so I can relate to your current situation. Sounds like you've got a pretty good plan layed out for a fun and reliable rec ski.

    Installing FA's and rejetting is a good plan, I assume you'll take out the choke plates while you have the carbs out and are installing the primer. Reinforcing the pump tunnel isn't a bad idea, it can be done relatively cheaply if you don't mind doing it yourself with some carbon fiber sheets and epoxy resin and is always good insurance. What do you want to do by adding a valve the visibility spout hose? I just plugged it up.

    Congrats on the purchase, good luck with the build, and have fun!

  6. #6
    WATER WOODY's Avatar
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    Congrats! the GPR is a well proven platform.

  7. #7
    Try not to smile on a Jetski... GPRFrank's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WATER WOODY View Post
    Congrats! the GPR is a well proven platform.
    +1 Gprs are a blast. But once you start tweeking here and there you catch the speed bug Good luck

  8. #8
    dsw222's Avatar
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    Thanks for all the comments!

    Pale, I will check out the epoxy. That sounds like a much cheaper alternative to the plug kit. And there is no electric bilge so i will add that to the "to do list".

    Ranger, that windscreen looks great! I will definitely try an auto body shop this winter to have mine done. What were the other little things you mentioned that you got painted?

    Bill, I ordered the nozzle... thanks for the tip!

    USCME, yes I am going to remove the choke plates while i'm in there. I rebuilt Mikuni carbs before, but it looks like a pain in the rear to access them on this ski... so I'm going to try to do all of the carb mods in one shot. I was thinking about keeping the visibility spout accessible as a water cannon so i could spray the girlfriend here and there ... but plugging it up seems like a good idea too. I'll have to think about that one


    Its 45 degrees right now... but its going to be 70 this weekend so it looks like I might get one last ride in this season! Wooo! Pittsburgh weather is crazy

  9. #9
    rangermtb5's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dsw222 View Post
    Ranger, that windscreen looks great! I will definitely try an auto body shop this winter to have mine done. What were the other little things you mentioned that you got painted?
    Oh, I had the valve cover painted from my RXP engine, and another part, not jetski related though.

    But I have heard that the grab bar comes out nice when painted. Not sure what prep work needs to be done, probably sanding the texture down.


    Just an FYI, I destroyed basically all of the nuts and bolts that hold the windscreen on when I took it off. I had to order all new, not expenisve, just a heads up though.
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  10. #10
    USCME's Avatar
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    The visibility spout is pretty much personal preference, if you want to keep it, thats fine, less work for ya this winter. I didn't care for it all that much so I plugged it up. The carbs on the gpr aren't that difficult to get to, you just have to pull out the stinger. You seem like you've done some good reading on here and may already be aware of this page but if you're not here's a link to cajundude's site: http://www.cajundude.com/techpagehome.htm He has some really good writeups on removing the stinger, removing the U-pipe, and removing the carbs as well as some other things. It's a great read and very helpful if you've never done any of that before, makes it a lot more straightforward the first time you do it.

    As for the PPK, I went the DIY route and don't regret it at all. Instead of using pieces that plug up the cavities and sealing them in, just get some casting resin and fill the cavities. I got a 2 part resin that dries to a hard white plastic. It was $20 for 32oz from uscomposites.com and was enough to do the whole shoe and transom with a little left over. I know mcmastercarr sells some casting resins too. If you don't mind paying a little more and skipping shipping you can check out your local hobby store, sometimes they have a casting resin under the name 'alumilite'. Any of these will work.

    Enjoy that last ride before putting it away for the winter!

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