Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 18
  1. #1

    Possibly buying an Ultra 150

    I might be buying an ultra 150 this week what do you think a good price would be for one that needs it's carbs cleaned and needs a new impeller and pump work? The ski has 96hrs on it and is in otherwise good condition. The guy wants 900 dollars is this a good deal?
    Also what are some things to look out for when I go look at it?
    Thanks


  2. #2
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Elephant Butte New Mexico
    Posts
    6,514
    +1
    1,258
    run away. pumps are expensive..real expensive...specially if the bearing are shot and the prop has tore into the wear ring. Ultra carb rebuild kits are equally expensive. Unless this ski is absolute mint in all other ways as well as it's trailer, I'd sink my money into another hole in the water.

  3. #3
    btldigger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    lebanon tn.
    Posts
    1,641
    Lol now pete we know you have been plating with those salt water queens!

    That isnt a bad price as long as the compression is good and there is no holes punched out the bottom of the motor. If you catch bearings early it not so bad. Winter time is the best time to pick up parts if it needs them, you will save major $. Have a look at the oil lines they are known to crack and take out a cylinder. Is that with a trailer?

  4. #4
    witness140's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Northeast
    Posts
    140
    +1
    1
    If this is the one in Belmar NJ on craigslist....

    Have you looked at it? Have you compression checked it and checked the pump yourself?

    If I had a $ for every ski I've looked at lately that 'just needed.......' I'd be rich.

    Just needs a pump and a carb rebuild means 'get out the mirror and look at the bottom of crankcase and hull for a rod sticking through it'

    900 bucks isnt bad if it is what it says it is, but if it's just a little worse than what it says, it's priced 400 bucks too high. Saw that one, and immediately said 'yeah right, really needs a top end, crank, carbs, and pump........no thanks.'

    Maybe you'll be lucky though.

  5. #5
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Elephant Butte New Mexico
    Posts
    6,514
    +1
    1,258
    I was thinking about $500 also..depending on cosmetics and the trailer.

    After all that disappointment with that outfit in maryland, I've managed to figure out the secrets of 150 pump building..specifically how to get the races out of the blind bearing side. One impleer was literally welded to the shaft..I tore the threads out of the impeller separating them ( with my new machinists vise, it was just a 6 foot breaker bar and a few canisters of propane) I did manage to salvage the stators.

    Getting back to this one fiddy..lets see some pics and get some compression readings..from there the advice flows...like spice.....

    Oh yeah. the salt water queens both have pumps on them now..picked up some ebay used ones for $350..somebody did have a freshly rebuilt one on there by that company..but for some reason nobody bought it. I did a couple of buy it now's and the skis are back on the water..and still for sale... $5500 for the pair with a galvanized conti trailer..no takers either...two seaters aren't that popular around here. I like the entire setup for 4..but he isn't quite there yet

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by witness140 View Post
    If this is the one in Belmar NJ on craigslist....

    Have you looked at it? Have you compression checked it and checked the pump yourself?

    If I had a $ for every ski I've looked at lately that 'just needed.......' I'd be rich.

    Just needs a pump and a carb rebuild means 'get out the mirror and look at the bottom of crankcase and hull for a rod sticking through it'

    900 bucks isnt bad if it is what it says it is, but if it's just a little worse than what it says, it's priced 400 bucks too high. Saw that one, and immediately said 'yeah right, really needs a top end, crank, carbs, and pump........no thanks.'

    Maybe you'll be lucky though.
    Yes it's the one in belmar and it comes with a trailer I was supposed to look at it either today or tomorrow thanks for saving me some time

  7. #7
    steve45's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    5,006
    +1
    281
    I didn't think it sounded too bad. I don't get it. When I was looking to find a cheap 'Ski for the kids to play on, I could only find expensive junk--and I had to drive 500 miles round trip to get it. Now, I see cheap stuff all over, but most of it needs a little work.

  8. #8
    witness140's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Northeast
    Posts
    140
    +1
    1
    I wasnt saying not to go look at it. By all means its worth a look. But I've spent two months poking around looking at the stuff around here that pops up on that market. It is sad that most folks who own these things don't have a mechanical clue. 'needs carb rebuild' is usually code for - 'i have no clue, but it doesn't run right so let's blame the carbs'

    Maybe that is indeed all it needs and it's a sweet deal. I want to say a carb rebuild is around 200-250. Can't remember what the kits cost. 70 each rings a bell for each carb. Anyone? You can buy a pump on ebay or the forums for 300-400. I have one I bought as a spare that I'd like to get rid of for 300.

    If that one needs a rebuild, and you can do it yourself nondestructively - budget 100 bucks for a rebuild kit. Then 25-30 to have the impeller rebuilt by SBT. You will probably also need a new cone because getting the old one off will probably be destructive. Theres 25 bucks. To send it off to Skiwork is gonna run you around 200 IIRC, plus prop work and shipping. Belmar means saltwater. Ask if the pump has ever had bearings done. You'll probably get a shrug or some look like 'huh?' Any 99 out there with original bearings should be done. Probably not going to be able to rip his pump apart before buying it, but be prepared for a corroded wear ring. I've seen some abused saltwater wear rings that have corrosion between the housing and the ring - and it's all bubbled. Not good.

    It will probably need a battery too. I've been buying the sealed batts from advanced auto with promo coupons. Ends up bringing the batts to around 55 bucks.

    If it is running now, start out with a dry bilge and ride it for bit . Then check bilge again for water. If there is more than when you started - run it around with the seat off in calm water watching the bearing holder where the driveshaft exits the engine compartment. Check for water coming in around the bolts that hold that assembly to the inside of hull. That's a common problem area on the older skis.

    On a ski like that I'd be bringing my tools, a battery, mirror, flashlight, and compression gauge. Multimeter too just in case. I'd be pulling and looking at each sparkplug. Looking for water, metal, or other warning signs that it isn't carbs vs having a destroyed cylinder. I'd be reaching under the coupler cover with my hand and turning over drivetrain manually to make sure it rotates. I'd be looking at the impeller from underneath with a flashlight. Looking into pump from behind as well. I'd be making sure the trim works, the display works, and the engine cranks normally with a fresh battery. Check compressions one cylinder at a time, grounding the plug wires to the ground plugs on the back cylinder. Wide open throttle, cold engine, crank it. All the gauges vary, probably most important is that all 3 cylinders read reasonably close to one another. If you do find a dead cylinder, or a plug that has metal all over it - and it doesn't turn over or rotate by hand - then I'd be looking underneath the engine case with the mirror looking for holes in the case.

    I'd make sure nobody has messed with the oil injection. Look at the oil lines for condition. Flashlight the lines as best you can, use the mirror. Look for giant bubbles in the main line going from tank to pump. That is bad. Feel them as best as possible and see if any of the lines are split and leaking oil. That is bad. Especially when it's the middle cylinder's oil line. That cylinder doesn't get supplemental oil from the fwd and rear balance cases. Download the service manual and read through it before you go to look at the ski to familiarize yourself with it. If it's a 99 - note which sparkplugs he's running . If they are just the regular BR9ES"s and his HID is below the cutoff for the expensive plugs - that is bad.

    Check out the underside of the front hood. There is a metal frame in there. A ski that has sat around salt all it's life and not been cared for will have that framework disintegrated from rust and corrosion. You can find those hoods online for 100 -150 bucks. You can find the frames sometimes too on ebay.

    If you go to crank it with the fresh batt after everything else checks out - and all you get is a click.....with no starter rotation, hit the stop button. If that produces another click - then you probably have the classic Ultra 150 stuck start switch. Thats easily fixed, but it usually takes out the starter and the battery too.

    If you do find evidence of water in the cylinders when you pull plugs, then it's had water sitting in it. Crank rebuilds are 550 bucks with a good core. Run it till it blows up completely, or be ready for a complete teardown.

    Thats some good stuff to get you started.

  9. #9
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Elephant Butte New Mexico
    Posts
    6,514
    +1
    1,258

    that was _very very_ good stuff

    if you end up with a dog after reading that most informative of posts, then you have nave nobody to blame but yourself.

    The only thing I have issue with was the choice of pump rebuilder. I had zero luck getting any response out of them until the crap started flying here..and all I got was a weak apology, not even a phone call. They are _that_ busy.

    I'd be checking that hull number carefully to be SURE it doesn't need those uber pricey plugs. I had one show up this year that didn't have the updated ignition system, and the owner tossed a fit when I told him about it.

    my advice....spend a little more and save yourself the work. I have a couple of nice salt water queens that have already had center bearings, pumps and carb work done..granted it's a road trip from NJ, but the desert is nice this time of year.

  10. #10
    witness140's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Northeast
    Posts
    140
    +1
    1
    Quote Originally Posted by nmpeter View Post
    The only thing I have issue with was the choice of pump rebuilder. I had zero luck getting any response out of them until the crap started flying here..and all I got was a weak apology, not even a phone call. They are _that_ busy.
    I agree. I got the same PM. I just don't know of anyone else who offers the service to be honest.

    I'd have typed more, but I had to get some sleep. LOL.

    41803 is the Hull ID number above which you can run the cheaper plugs. Prior to this number in the 99 production run, you had to run the expensive plugs because the ignition was different. They did not remove the cautions from the users manual or the stickers from the airbox with the later skis that model year. So it is very possible that you can see a 99 Ultra with warning stickers that doesn't actually need to abide by the warning stickers. Just make sure some knucklehead wasnt running the cheap ones prior to that cutoff - unless you can make sure he swapped out ignition or went with an aftermarket head that negated the need. You aren't going to find that with the belmar ski if my guess is correct.

    Deals are out there, but a lot of them are bad deals. LOL. It is good that info is so easy to get and ebay is like the Ultra 150 parts superstore - but there is a reason why so many of these things are being parted out.

    And I'd have to say that the days of 99 and 00 Ultras selling like hotcakes at the 3K mark in excellent running condition are pretty much over. Just because there are 50 of them listed across the country at any given moment for 3000 firm doesnt mean anything. It is a 2000-2500 ski in really decent condition unless it has fresh pump, complete fresh and properly done top, or something to set it apart from the other '12 yrs mixed batch of owner's dirty work induced time bombs.'

    And sadly, this time of year around here - the running ones in good shape arent selling until the price gets down between 1500-2000.

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. Need some advice on possibly picking up an Ultra 150...
    By 03stage2 in forum Kawasaki Open Discussion
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 04-19-2010, 07:49 AM
  2. New to jetskiing, thinking of buying an Ultra 150
    By mrgc in forum Kawasaki How To & FAQs
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 04-19-2010, 02:55 AM
  3. Skat Trak Jet Pump for an Ultra 150?
    By Ballin Ultras in forum Kawasaki PWC Performance (2-stroke)
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 09-26-2007, 09:37 AM
  4. Possibly getting 01 ultra 150.. quick compression question...
    By jcc011185 in forum Kawasaki Open Discussion
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 07-31-2007, 07:26 PM
  5. Stupid question for an Ultra 150
    By thesepaperwings in forum Kawasaki PWC Performance (2-stroke)
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 06-28-2007, 09:58 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •