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  1. #1
    Now this is an appropriate speed limit sign. dragon129's Avatar
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    SLXH 1050 piston contacting spark plug.

    I noticed that I was running about 2/3 rpm about 20 minutes into my ride so I knew that I was running on two of the three cylinders. I got the ski back to the house and started removing plugs to see if there was anything obvious. Sure enough, the forward piston pushed the side electrode into the center electrode on the spark plug. Well, with no gap, there's no spark. So I pryed the side electrode out and took that plug and switched it with the rear cylinder. Took it back out for another spin and everything was good again, for about 10 minutes. Brought it back and it happened yet again. What the hell??? This one has got me stumped.


  2. #2
    jackofalltrades's Avatar
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    Sounds like its a combination of 2 things IMO. Wear on the rod bearing/crank/wrist pin on that cylinder in conjunction with the metal expanding when it heats up. There is some slack there somewhere.

  3. #3
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dragon129 View Post
    ...forward piston pushed the side electrode into the center electrode on the spark plug...
    Do not run that engine any more. You are right at the precipice of catastrophic engine failure.

    MAG piston is hitting the spark plug.

    One possibility is the MAG piston is disintegrating and piston debris is hitting the spark plug. Again, take the head off and inspect.

    Or the MAG connecting rod bearing is failing, and allowing excess piston motion. Pull the MAG cylinder head and cylinder and inspect the connecting rod.

  4. #4
    I like Boobs. wetwolf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Do not run that engine any more. You are right at the precipice of catastrophic engine failure.

    One possibility is the MAG piston is disintegrating and piston debris is hitting the spark plug. Again, take the head off and inspect.

    Or the MAG connecting rod bearing is failing

    It is physically impossible for the piston to hit the plug, but it is very possibly for chunks of piston or bearings to come up thru the tranfsers and get caught between the piston and plug, closing the gap.

  5. #5
    crzyjetskr's Avatar
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    Pull the head off a piston skirt prob broke and is getting crammed up there. The dome shape on the head won't allow the piston to contact the plug so you have something free floating

  6. #6
    Now this is an appropriate speed limit sign. dragon129's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wetwolf View Post
    It is physically impossible for the piston to hit the plug, but it is very possibly for chunks of piston or bearings to come up thru the tranfsers and get caught between the piston and plug, closing the gap.

    Yeah, that's what scares me. I'll pull everything off this weekend and see what's up. I'll keep you posted on the find. Hopefully, I caught the malfunction in time as to not have too much damage. Thanks to everyone for the info.

  7. #7
    Rasta Mon Condoms We Be Jammin!!!!! TxVirageTx's Avatar
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    i'll go with wetwolf and say the crank bearing is coming apart,the rod bearing doesn't really have a way to drop out a bearing but the crank sure does and the bearing next to it will keep it spinning

  8. #8

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    +1 here , i think its debris or wrong spark plug

  9. #9
    Now this is an appropriate speed limit sign. dragon129's Avatar
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    Ok well, Houston, we have a problem. I did not think a 45 hour motor could get this bad this soon. That's what I get for thinking. As you can see, the piston is absolutely shot. Cylinder actually looks pretty good. I just pulled that front head off. I know it's going to need some serious help so I didn't look any farther just yet due to time constraints for today. Well, looks like a winter project for me. First things first, I have to find a money tree because I'm flat broke. If I can find that money tree, I have to find SLXH parts from a manufacturer who doesn't make watercraft anymore. This could get interesting. Can I use all of the 1050 parts and just drop a 1200 motor in it, besides a new carb upgrade???
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  10. #10
    There are quite a few jugs and pistons on ebay.

    If the bore is ok, you may get away with just a new piston and rings.


    But the first thing is to figure out what exactly was bouncing around in there to cause that much damage. Pull the jug and look down in to the cases. Stick a magnet down there and see if you come up with any pieces of bearings or rings.

    If you're crank is shot, you're probably looking at $4-500 for a rebuilt crank and a used piston/jug.

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