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  1. #1
    dnielsen's Avatar
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    What's the best break-in oil?

    Anyone know what's the best oil for breaking in a new rebuilt engine? Is the new seadoo synthetic blend a good idea?


  2. #2
    home of the dislexic fingers breon's Avatar
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    regular cheap oil run it for about an hour and change it...get all the crap out of the new engine...

  3. #3
    dnielsen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by breon View Post
    regular cheap oil run it for about an hour and change it...get all the crap out of the new engine...
    Thanks breon, do you know what weight oil, detergent or non? Just don't want to fxxk up a new block!

  4. #4
    home of the dislexic fingers breon's Avatar
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    dont stress... we just talked about that ..this is fun stuff...oil iisnt going to hurt it unless you forget to put it in......

    when you go out... start part throddle vary rpm but keep the rpm low...take the other half and sight see...for the first hour or so....over the next two hours bring the rpm up...a little at a time doing part throddle some half some 3/4 pulls...when you get it all the way up towards the end of the time do a couple wot short birst...go home change the oil...now you can use what ever semi synthetic you want..and you should be good to go..change te oil again after 10 hours..just because...


    what brand ect oil you break in with doesn really matter use the same weight you would normally ..any regular non synthetic oil..syntetic oil is to slippery to let the rings seat...the cheapest oil will work you shouldnt leave it in long enought to matter..it is only going to be in there a short time ... as soon as you get the break in done..change it..get any left over crap out asap..why would you leave the trash in the engine..for 10 20 hours of break in...

  5. #5
    Work Harder, Millions on Wellfare Depend On Us! ultramaxracing05's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dnielsen View Post
    Thanks breon, do you know what weight oil, detergent or non? Just don't want to fxxk up a new block!
    there is no such thing anymore as oil weight, the W in oil stands for Winter. the lower the number the colder the temperature is, the higher the number the higher the temp.

    thats why they are called multi grade oil. Back in the day they used monograde oil.

    stick with 10w-40

  6. #6
    I recommend you reference your service manual. I followed the service manual on my ski (including p**y break-in procedure) and I am @ 225hrs with no problems while it seems that lots of people with 250X skis are having issues. That's just my 2 cents. I am sure I will get a lot of people disagreeing with me.

  7. #7
    dnielsen's Avatar
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    Thanks guys!!

  8. #8
    Lock and Load tron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by breon View Post
    what brand ect oil you break in with doesn really matter use the same weight you would normally ..any regular non synthetic oil..syntetic oil is to slippery to let the rings seat...the cheapest oil will work you shouldnt leave it in long enought to matter..it is only going to be in there a short time ... as soon as you get the break in done..change it..get any left over crap out asap..why would you leave the trash in the engine..for 10 20 hours of break in...
    You just gotta make sure it's JASO MA certified right?

  9. #9
    Vern's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tron View Post
    You just gotta make sure it's JASO MA certified right?
    Exactly ... many of us use motorcycle oil since most of that is JASO MA wet clutch certified.

  10. #10
    MSRXP's Avatar
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    Autozone has Valvoline 10-40 4-tech Motorcycle oil on sale 50% off. 1.99 a quart. Buy a case and run two changes through it. It is what I did recently... Actually more like 4, but who it counting....

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