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  1. #1

    951 - Thanks Tempo!

    The front piston blew apart due to lean condition - the stupid fuel lines. A top end is a must, but I am not sure about the bottom end. The rods look good and I can spin the crank with no trouble. You can tell one side is coated in the aluminum from the piston but I dont see any damage. There is a bit of oil left of the rod on the crank when you spin it 180 degrees from where it was sitting for some time. Where would the oil come from? Last, where did the skirt go? Some of it is on top as you can see, but the rest?

    One more thing..I replaced the fuel lines, but I left the ones going to the vents and the one that runs to the back of the hull. Should I replace these aswell?

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  2. #2
    mibunkerking's Avatar
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    i hate to say i told you so but....

    split the cases and inspect the crank. my money is on you needing a new one because bits of the piston got into the bearings. take the crank out and spin each bearing by hand real fast. it should be wisper quite and roll smoothly all the way around till it stops. anything else and its shot.

    replace both pistons as the non broke piston has seized before. inspect the hole that the broke piston came out of closely for cracks. look close. it will be real hard to see.

  3. #3
    The motor came apart pretty easy. Freshwater only so no corrosion. How hard is it to seal the case and get it back in the hull?

  4. #4
    mibunkerking's Avatar
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    use three bond to seal the cases. pretty simple really, line up the marks on the crank to the CB, and then torque to the specs in the manual.

  5. #5
    Did you inspect the main and carb fuel filters too?? If they are clean then it's not a fuel line problem.

  6. #6
    I took the covers off the carbs and the hoses were slimmy and green. The filters in there were pretty bad too. My gloves and the towel were lime green when I was done spraying carb cleaner at it. The fuel filter was not to bad, but still had junk in it. The selector was trickling out of ON and clogged in RESERVE. If anyone has a spare laying around, I am in need of a new one. I couldnt get the crap out as it is solid chunks. Trying to remove the nipples resulted in leakage This weekend I'll be pulling the crank and checking the bearings. Where is a good place to get reeds? One of them is mangled. The plastic basket is ok, but the metal things are bent and the reeds them self are butchered. Any tips welcomed! So much work....WELL WORTH IT.

  7. #7

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    YES! replace the vent hoses also. Fuel vapor destroyes these hoses also.
    Robert v

  8. #8
    The top of the piston says 87.91. Is that stock size?

  9. #9
    retro jet's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mibunkerking View Post

    split the cases and inspect the crank. my money is on you needing a new one because bits of the piston got into the bearings. take the crank out and spin each bearing by hand real fast. it should be wisper quite and roll smoothly all the way around till it stops. anything else and its shot.
    x2 You probably should replace the crank especially if you are going to keep it for a while.

    About the reeds... the rubber seal under the petals should be flat with no marks for a good seal. Straighten the metal reed stop so it matches the good ones. The manual has a distance to set them to. Buy new petals, I think Carbon Tech are a bit cheaper than OEM.

  10. #10
    I got the case out ok and after looking closer at the crank, I noticed the bottom of the reed opening that the bad side was mangled. Is this case junk?

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