Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 15
  1. #1

    2002 Freedom start prob.

    I knew it would happen. Ran the ski great a few weekends ago. Trying to sell it now. I have someone coming over so I took it out to the driveway to crank her up. Nothing. Just a click. I've tried two different batteries, both fully charged and still just a "click". Sounds like it's coming from the solenoid (I think that's what it is. It has a red wire to it from the battery and another red wire which looks like it goes to the starter or somewhere else under the engine. It also has a two pin connector thing that plugs into it). I read the forums where it says to take a screwdriver and run it across both poles of the solenoid to see if it sparks or starts. I did that, fully expecting to get fried, but nothing happened. No spark, no nothing.

    As I said, I'm trying to sell it and that's going to be tough if the thing doesn't even start. Any help would be appreciated!


  2. #2
    casey67's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Lemont,IL
    Posts
    2,571
    +1
    35
    Looks like you either have a bad connection on one of those large red cables or the black cable. If not,both of your batteries are bad.
    Put a volt meter on the battery and try it agian,what voltage does it read ?

  3. #3
    Hmmm. Interesting. When I first did it, it was reading right around 29 or 30, but then when I moved the negative probe to the actual cable (not the screw and not the terminal itself), it went all the way to 0. When I put it on the terminal, right back up to 29 or 30, moved the probe back to the metal part of the cable, and nothing. Does this mean all I need is a new negative cable?

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    near Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    36,589
    +1
    1,273
    Quote Originally Posted by Dteachmh View Post
    Hmmm. Interesting. When I first did it, it was reading right around 29 or 30, but then when I moved the negative probe to the actual cable (not the screw and not the terminal itself), it went all the way to 0. When I put it on the terminal, right back up to 29 or 30, moved the probe back to the metal part of the cable, and nothing.

    Does this mean all I need is a new negative cable?
    Not sure what 20 or 30 refers to. Ohms perhaps?

    If it is ohms, any connection that is not under 1.0 ohms is way to high a resistance.

    Start by removing and cleaning the engine block end of the main battery negative cable. Clean the cable, and the block. The grounding bolt too. Make sure you have clean metal-to-metal contact.

    Remove and clean the battery ends of both cables.

    Also clean both red cable ends at the start solenoid.

    If the solenoid is the original black bodied solenoid with a metal mounting back, then it may have failed (even though it is still clicking). There are newer versions that are more reliable. See my signature links for more details.

  5. #5
    Ok, cleaned the cables (actually bought a new negative one). Those cables could not be any cleaner or tighter. I'm thinking more and more it's the solenoid. Yes, the one I have is the original black bodied one with a metal mounting back. A red cable from the battery going in and another red one going out.

    I retested the voltage. I had my multimeter set wrong before. The battery is listing 11 Volts. Just for kicks, I moved the red probe the solenoid post (where the cable from the battery goes in) and it read the same (11 volts). I then moved it to the other one (where the red cable comes out and goes to the starter, I think) and it doesn't measure any volts. Shouldn't that measure the same as my battery?

    Is there a way I can test the solenoid to be sure before I buy one? I tried the whole "screwdriver across the poles" thing and there was no spark or anything. Anything else I can do?

  6. #6
    Ok, upon further testing I noticed that the volts on the cable going out of the solenoid to the started jumped up to 9 or 10 when I pressed the start button, which is what it's supposed to do, I think. Of course it was 0 when I wasn't pressing the start button. So now I'm thinking it may be the starter. There is no way I can get my big ole' hands down under there to get to it though. I guess I'm just trying to figure out how to tell if it's the solenoid or the starter. The solenoid sure is cheaper and it's right in front of me. A 5 minute fix. I have no idea where to even start if it's the starter because there's no way I'm taking that whole engine apart.

  7. #7
    jackofalltrades's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Cabot Arkansas
    Posts
    592
    You need a known good battery to start with. Got a set of jumper cables? Hook it up to your automobile but DO NOT START the engine on the car as you could cause damage to the ski's electrical system. See if it will turn over then, if not, then its a problem in the ski, if it cranks you know you got two bad batteries or at least not fully charged batteries. They can read good voltage on a battery and still be bad with no guts or reserve. Can you turn the engine by hand slightly via the shaft coupler at the back of the engine to verify the engine will move and the pump isnt bound up?

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    near Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    36,589
    +1
    1,273
    Quote Originally Posted by Dteachmh View Post
    ...volts on the cable going out of the solenoid to the started jumped up to 9 or 10 when I pressed the start button, which is what it's supposed to do, I think.

    Of course it was 0 when I wasn't pressing the start button. So now I'm thinking it may be the starter.

    ...figure out if it's the solenoid or the starter.

    The solenoid sure is cheaper and it's right in front of me. A 5 minute fix.

    I have no idea where to even start if it's the starter...
    Voltage on the starter side of the solenoid is supposed to jump up to full battery voltage when you press the Start button.

    However, 9 or 10 volts is weak. The battery voltage should be over 10.6 volts while cranking. Since your engine is not actually cranking, either the battery is weak, or the starter is seized up and is drawing a LOT of electrical current, which causes the battery voltage to sag.

    Put volt meter back on the battery terminals. Without pressing start, the voltage must be over 12.0 volts if the battery is healthy (usually 12.5 volts or higher).

    Now press start. What happens to the voltage? If it drops below 10.6 volts, hold the start button down for 15-20 seconds, then release.

    Did the red battery cables get warm? If yes, then the starter is getting power, and is seized.

    If the battery voltage does NOT droop when you press start, and you get no spark when you short the solenoid studs, then either the starter itself has failed, or the cable connection at the starter is bad. A distant possibility is that the starter mounting to the engine itself has corroded.

    Quote Originally Posted by Dteachmh View Post
    ...cables could not be any cleaner or tighter.

    ...solenoid... is the original black bodied one with a metal mounting back. A red cable from the battery going in and another red one going out.

    ...Is there a way I can test the solenoid to be sure before I buy one? I tried the whole "screwdriver across the poles" thing and there was no spark or anything....
    That means the solenoid is not the problem.

    Quote Originally Posted by jackofalltrades View Post
    ...Can you turn the engine by hand slightly via the shaft coupler at the back of the engine to verify the engine will move and the pump isn't bound up?
    That is a useful test. Make sure you can turn the engine over by hand.

    You may have to remove the coupler cover to get your hand on the coupler itself so you can turn it. Remove the spark plugs to make it easier to turn over. It should turn smoothly on either direction, with only medium resistance.

    To get at the starter takes some effort. Disconnect the battery first, of course.

    The starter is mounted on the left side of the engine right behind the flywheel housing. It is bolted to the engine with two bolts at the rear of the starter motor. Once those two bolts are removed, the starter simply slides rearward out of the hole in the flywheel cover.

    It is often stuck in the hole, but with some effort it will wiggle out. There are o-rings that seal the motor snout in the hole, so there is some friction.

    I don't recall whether there is enough room under the Freedom exhaust manifold and pipe to reach under and forward to get to the starter bolts. If not, then you need to ease the exhaust system out of the way.

  9. #9
    jackofalltrades's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Cabot Arkansas
    Posts
    592
    Coupler cover? Am I supposed to have one of those too?

  10. #10
    Canadian Beaver Inspector jkindt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Lethbridge, AB, Canada
    Posts
    1,721
    Quote Originally Posted by jackofalltrades View Post
    Coupler cover? Am I supposed to have one of those too?
    If you want. Not a necessity, but it does keep a grease line from forming inside the hull as it seeps out the grease fitting.

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. 2002 Polaris Freedom Start issue
    By hookitup in forum Polaris Open Discussion
    Replies: 11
    Last Post: 07-29-2015, 01:20 PM
  2. 2002 polaris freedom start issue
    By fkane in forum Polaris How To & FAQs
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 08-22-2012, 07:06 AM
  3. 2002 Freedom 700 wont start after riding
    By KevinRyan117 in forum Polaris PWC Performance
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 07-25-2011, 11:16 PM
  4. 2002 freedom wont start.
    By nitrousdog in forum Polaris How To & FAQs
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 06-19-2011, 09:07 PM
  5. 2002 polaris freedom starting problem
    By Pete D in forum Polaris Open Discussion
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 08-12-2010, 09:48 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •