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  1. #1

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    2002 Virage water solenoid question

    I just purchased a 2002 Virage i cheap. It wasn't running, so I spent most of the day cleaning it up, draining the gas and oil, replaced the starter and repaired a bunch of bad connections. Looks like the ski was submerged and left for a while.
    I was able to get it running.
    The water solenoid was just hanging with both hoses cut off. I was going to reconnect it but when I took it apart the plunger and spring were missing.
    My question is the solenoid needed?
    From what I've read on other posts it looks like it isn't needed.
    What is the value of the resistor all I could find was 5 watts, but no ohm value.
    Also if the Soleniod is removed where should the hoses be connected?
    Thanks for any help.


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Did you remove the stator/flywheel cover for water and/or rust? If there is still water or rust in there, you will need to deal with it. Otherwise the stator and/or Bendix is liable to fail.

    Note that on your Ficht fuel injected engine the flywheel housing cover has a water jacket. To remove the actual flywheel housing front you do not need to remove that U shaped outer plate.

    You can also leave the oil pump installed. When you remove the bolts that hold the cover in place, you can swing the entire cover assembly aside with all the hoses still attached.

    What work did you do to get it working?
    Fuel and tanks drained?

    Have a look through my signature links

  3. #3
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Arrow How to delete water injection solenoid from Ficht fuel injected 2002-2004 Virage i

    The two cylinder Ficht fuel injected 2002-2004 Virage i has a unique emissions control solenoid valve (4010768 ) which injects additional water into the exhaust stream when requested by the EMM.

    This would not be a problem, except that the original solenoid itself often corrodes and falls apart. Since the solenoid is not required for proper engine operation, the simple fix is to delete the solenoid.

    If you prefer to retain this emissions control device there is a newer version of the solenoid valve with a Delrin body (part number 4010915 ).

    In a stock factory configuration the solenoid is tucked up under the exhaust pipe, to the left of the engine. You can find it by following the small cooling water hoses that also connect to the EMM.

    The following photos show what is involved in removing the solenoid. You need to disconnect the small water hose and cap off the hose at the tee, or remove the tee and splice the remaining two hoses together.

    Unplug the electrical connector, and remove the solenoid valve from the engine bay. The factory stock location is tucked up under the big exhaust pipe, but sometimes it gets replaced or moved down near the flywheel cover.

    Now you cap off the water injection port on the exhaust pipe fitting. You will need a 5/8" deep socket and fine tooth ratchet wrench to unscrew the barb hose fitting from the elbow fitting right above. I got to it from in front of the engine, but you can also reach under the exhaust pipe from the rear when standing to the left side of the hull.

    To cap off the fitting use a brass plumbing cap, size 1/4" FIP.

    At this point the engine will start and run just fine. However the EMM will log a trouble code of 144, indicating that the water injection solenoid is missing.

    If you want to fool the EMM into thinking the solenoid is still in place (and thereby avoid logging the 144 service code) you can install a simple resistor between the two wires that originally connected to the solenoid.

    The exact resistance value of the resistor is not critical. It must be over about 400 ohms to minimize power/heat. In my testing I found a range of 470 ohms to 1200 ohms (or even higher) worked just fine. A 1/2 watt resistor works just fine.
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    Last edited by K447; 07-15-2013 at 05:58 PM.

  4. #4

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    I didn't check the flywheel/Stator. I guess that will be the project for tomorrow. I've used your signature link many times before, I also have 2 1996 SLT780, and it' been very helpful. This is my first time working with a fuel injected ski. So far so good.
    All I did to get it running was replace the battery connectors the one that were on it had been replaced with crimp on's that were made for 12 awg wire, replaced the starter it was completely destroyed by salt water, cleaned and lubed (with di-electric grease) all of the water tight connectors most of them had been disconnected and were badly corroded, sand blasted and re painted the exhaust manifold and expansion chamber. Along with checking the flywheel/stator I'll be rebuilding the pump. It looks the same as the older slt 780's so it shouldn't take too long (famous last words!)
    Thanks for your help K447

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Assembling the resistor dummy load in place of water solenoid, avoid EMM code 144

    If you want to fool the EMM into thinking the solenoid is still in place (and thereby avoid logging the service code) you can install a simple resistor between the two wires that originally connected to the solenoid.

    The exact resistance value of the resistor is not critical. It must be over about 400 ohms to minimize power/heat. In my testing I found a range of 470 ohms to 1200 ohms (or even higher) worked just fine.

    A 1/2 watt resistor is sufficient since the resistance is much higher than the actual solenoid. A one watt or five watt resistor is also OK.

    Cut the connector and a short length of wire from the solenoid. Per the attached photos, solder (preferred) or crimp the resistor to the wire ends. Insulate using heat shrink tubing or rubberized tape.

    Update: If you would rather leave the deleted solenoid intact, the same mating 2-pin Weatherpack connector is used for the bilge pump and the oil sender on newer models. If you have a spare wire harness laying around, perhaps you could steal one from there

    Not shown is a second larger diameter heat shrink tubing (I used red) applied over the entire resistor and wire stub section. This provides further stiffness and better mechanical protection.

    After assembly, plug the stub connector into the wire harness (2-pin WeatherPack/Packard connector with Red/Purple and Blue/White wires).

    Reroute the wires and stub connector and tie it alongside another harness section so it won't bounce around. Mine ended up zip-tied to the harness just below the TPS.
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    Last edited by K447; 08-14-2013 at 08:17 PM.

  6. #6

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    Thanks, that's exactly what I was looking for. The sticker on the solenoid says 7 watts, so I was going to use a 220 ohm .5 watt. R=E2/P ,but I will use your suggestion at 470 ohms it would need to be approx. .31 watts. Some times less is better.
    Thanks again for all your help.

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Relocated and tied off solenoid harness with stub connector.

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    1/4 inch FIP brass threaded cap seals the exhaust pipe fitting.
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    Delrin style solenoid valve
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    Last edited by K447; 08-14-2013 at 08:18 PM.

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnnynpr View Post
    ...The sticker on the solenoid says 7 watts, so I was going to use a 220 ohm...
    The failed solenoid I have on hand measures 21 ohms resistance.

    Assuming 14.5 volts (running engine) the solenoid would consume 10 watts at 0.6 Amps.

    A 220 ohm resistor would disipate about 1 watt.

  9. #9

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    I checked the flywheel and stator everything looks good. Removed the pump it's a total loss completely corroded. It took 3 hours to remove it. The drive shaft, impeller, wedge and reverse gate are the only parts that are usable. Do you know anywhere to get parts cheap? I tried ebay and there were on deals, I guess those guys haven't checked prices for new.
    Also there are some barnicales on the hull. Do you know of anything that will remove them without destroying the gellcoat?

  10. #10
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    In my signature link is a list of Parts Sources

    John Zigler is a reliable source of good used parts and new stuff too.

    Always check the price of new parts on the various online sources. Sometimes there are significant differences between them.

    The preferred jet pump stator is the six vane stainless steel version (5132088 ). Much better than the 5 vane aluminum stator (5130983).
    Last edited by K447; 08-12-2013 at 09:00 PM.

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