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  1. #1
    home of the dislexic fingers breon's Avatar
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    over stuff anyone want to talk about the relief valves

    going to be in te buck range soon
    so i might as well just put them in
    saw what happend when you over stuff at the hydrodrags .thanks but no thanks...

    so what do i need from mcmaster car and how do they go in...

    pics please.


  2. #2
    Orlando Shark's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by breon View Post
    going to be in te buck range soon
    so i might as well just put them in
    saw what happend when you over stuff at the hydrodrags .thanks but no thanks...

    so what do i need from mcmaster car and how do they go in...

    pics please.
    I will be needing info on that too...after seeing how deep the competition is and having to make my ski hit close to 100 MPH in the 1/8

  3. #3
    home of the dislexic fingers breon's Avatar
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    the parts are there to get the skis into the bucking range ..i am only in a rxp ..not a x boat so ill be bettter but still not safe..

  4. #4
    dduck dduck1628's Avatar
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    The RXPXs I've seen are using 3/4 brass spring check valves. Made by Campbell part # CV-3T.

    http://www.drillspot.com/products/73...FYNl7AodhV9PMQ

    Looks like the threaded part of the outlet was cut down. I've got some pics on my work computer. I'll post them up tomorrow.

  5. #5
    home of the dislexic fingers breon's Avatar
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    i thought tey were using pressure relief valves..so when the tunnel sees say?????40 psi ..it opend and blead off the excess pressure..

  6. #6
    dnielsen's Avatar
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    Have 1 JD valve installed, 2 more on the way so I can run 3. You need to know what the cracking psi is for the valve. In other words you need to know how tight the springs hold against the popet. If someone wants to send me the stuff to check em I would.

  7. #7
    Moderator beerdart's Avatar
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    In the GPR world we shoot for 15-20psi cracking pressure and try to keep the tunnel pressure below 60psi.

  8. #8
    WOT 88's Avatar
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    I've been trying to find some solid info on this subject as well.. It seems somewhat guarded as far as actual installation info. That seems a bit odd as this theoretically could be a matter of life and death. I have been able to gather some limited information mainly referencing old Berkeley jet drive pressure relief setups.

    The idea I had was to actually machine a one inch spacer/pump extension out of billett aluminum to go between the back of the pump and the pump shoe/hull , drill and tap two 3/4" horizontal holes and use 2 -50 psi pressure watts type pressure relief valves.
    I've got a few different types of brass pressure relief valves at work that we use on boilers, tanks and pressure vessels ranging from 35-250 psi. But I could be way off on my theory.

    Watching Eddie get bucked Sunday kinda sent a chill down my spine

  9. #9
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    and since were talking about it, is the only way you can measure the pressure is to drill/tap the pump shoe and put a gauge? or.........

  10. #10
    dduck dduck1628's Avatar
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    I played with the valves for a little bit before turning my attention to fixing an engine problem in time to make the hydros. Be careful!!! because a valve popping off at 40psi will scare the S(&t of you if you manage to stay on the ski. The sudden change in inlet pressure when the valve opens and closes can throw you. I wish I could tell you more, but I'm learning too. There's a ton of info in the yamaha section. Be careful!!!!

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