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  1. #1

    HELP! FZR hull cracked - already repaired twice - cracking for the third time!

    Hi all

    I have a FZR newly bought last year.
    The story is that I've collided the front sections of the hull with a partly submerged debris (no idea what it was, but it was from the pervious storm which washed all sorts of debris in the water and the water was murky brown from the stir up as well)...

    The Jet is relatively dead stock except for the grate. (first thing I did since I didn't want to be bucked!)

    The collision ended up smashing the plastic layer of the front towing hook) exposing the metal core (so still works as a towing hook if needed, there's just no plastic outer layer on it anymore) and the 'front slope' of the hull and the 'front bottom' of the hull was cracked pretty badly. It wasn't taking in water so despite looking very deep, it figured that it was only the external layers...

    I also keep the PWC on a floating dock.

    The damage has been repaired (under insurance) twice already! But the repaired layer (the new glassed layer?) constantly 'peels off' and almost detaches itself from the rest of the original hull.

    I'm dealing this with the insurance at the moment and since I've disclosed the fact that the PWC was being 'stored' on a floating dock, this shouldn't be a problem...

    But I wanted to ask.
    Has anyone else had similar problems?
    Is the NanoXcel hulls difficult to repair? Or require special technic?
    Can anyone chime ANY information into what I'm experiencing?

    I haven't been able to fully enjoy the FZR for some months now. (damn dispute with the insurance company who doesn't want anything to do with this...) and I really don't want to go through the cycle of repair followed by damage followed by repair followed by damage ... (you get the drift...)

    Please help! The summer is here!


  2. #2
    Nano excel uses some sort of epoxy resin. I had similar damage to the front of my hull, didnt take on water but it was ugly. Had it repaired and have had no issues. When sourcing a fiberglass guy i made sure he understood what the hull type was. Sounds like your repair man may be using the wrong gear, id let a few more people chime in before taking my word on this. But thats how i went about it and havent had issues.

  3. #3
    Really?

    If there is a particular repair material appropriate for the NanoXcels, it might make much better sense.
    I have a new Seadoo parked right next to it and it is fine. I'm not sure, but I'm starting to think that the relative strength and durability of the yamaha hulls are lower than that of Seadoo...

    Is it normally expected for the repaired section of the hull to 'detach' from the rest of the original/normal hull if I was using a floating pontoon to dock the PWC?
    The subsequent damages all seem to be occuring when the Yamaha is being docked.
    I don't even dock it hard or smash into it. In fact, I have a numerously lifted the PWC onto the pontoon from the water using the crack pulley...

    Thanks for your input.

    Maybe some others can chime in as well? Please?

  4. #4
    SurfRider's Avatar
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    I have a friend who has researched the nano hulls and has even talked with Yamama about it. He is convinced that it can be repaired, but normal fiberglass repair guys don't know how to do it.

    He says the whole thing is how the nano cell hulls are made. Normal fiberglass/smc hulls are laid up in the molds and glued together later. The nano cell hulls are put into aluminum blocks, pressed together and heated to a high temp to bond them. While traditional hulls, you just put wax on the molds so you can pull the pieces off later, the nano hulls have the wax built into the nano cell material. This is why it is very hard to repair. Since the wax is throughout the material, you cannot just sand it and then apply the repair material. It must be prepped so that the wax is removed the from nano cell. That is the basic reason why people have trouble with these. They don't understand the process and it will always peel if they don't do it right.

  5. #5
    Does anyone else dock their NanoXcels on floating pontoons?
    I didn't have problems with the floating dock before the original collision but the insurance company wants to argue that the pontoon (where the PWC is docked) is the problem and that the repair was all fine...

    Doug78, do you know what the epoxy resin was called?

  6. #6
    speedskixp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by --DK-- View Post
    Does anyone else dock their NanoXcels on floating pontoons?
    I didn't have problems with the floating dock before the original collision but the insurance company wants to argue that the pontoon (where the PWC is docked) is the problem and that the repair was all fine...

    Doug78, do you know what the epoxy resin was called?
    If the repair cant handle being docked on a floating dock then it was not repaired correctly. When done correctly with the right materials it will be stronger than new. I use west sytems epoxy but any good epoxy resin will work as long as the area being bonded to is thoroughly cleaned and free of wax and oils. Good luck. If they cant get it right they should give you a new ski.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by SurfRider View Post
    I have a friend who has researched the nano hulls and has even talked with Yamama about it. He is convinced that it can be repaired, but normal fiberglass repair guys don't know how to do it.

    He says the whole thing is how the nano cell hulls are made. Normal fiberglass/smc hulls are laid up in the molds and glued together later. The nano cell hulls are put into aluminum blocks, pressed together and heated to a high temp to bond them. While traditional hulls, you just put wax on the molds so you can pull the pieces off later, the nano hulls have the wax built into the nano cell material. This is why it is very hard to repair. Since the wax is throughout the material, you cannot just sand it and then apply the repair material. It must be prepped so that the wax is removed the from nano cell. That is the basic reason why people have trouble with these. They don't understand the process and it will always peel if they don't do it right.
    Do you (or your friend) have any detailed information (or perhaps even steer me in the proper direction) so that I can provide the repairer with all necessary information?
    I'm fairly sure (99.99%) that my previous two repairs were done in a conventional fibreglass method that you described...

    I'm was just hoping that the hull can be repaired.
    I honestly feared that the intrinsic characteristics of the NanoXcel meant that any repairs were expected to be either inadequate or temporary at best... (I was even thinking about the ridiculous situation where I'd be constantly claiming from the insurance or fighting repair warranties.... a nightmare really)

    I've actually contemplated litigation since the extent of repair, approved and allowed by the insurance company, was insufficient for normal use and enjoyment.

    I really like the Yamaha. Much preferrable than my 255hp Seadoo to be honest, and the first few replies might mean that there is a light at the end of this tunnel...

    Thanks for your input as well.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by speedskixp View Post
    ... free of wax and oils ....
    SurfRider mentioned that the wax is actually throughout the Nano material itself, as opposing to being on the surface... Is there a trick in removing all the waxs and oils from the particular sections of the hull (i.e. the area where the new 'epoxy resin' is being applied for repair)?

    The nightmare is starting to subside.


    I'm getting some really good and knowledgable answers here, but I was afraid to post, purely becuase I didn't want people to mistaken the Yamaha PWCs as being bad... (plus I honestly didn't think the issue was out of reach for the repair specialist that was organised by my local Yamaha dealer! That's right! My local Yamaha dealer (whom I bought the ski off of) took the ski and organised the repairer!)

    Is there a chance that the Yamaha dealer (official) is not aware of this special circumstances concerning NanoXcel hulls?

    Quote Originally Posted by speedskixp View Post
    If they cant get it right they should give you a new ski.
    I hope this to be the case... This is essentially what the contemplated litigation with the insurance was about... or at the very least, a new replacement hull... How much do these go for anyway? around US$9K as I heard from the above yammie dealer...

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by speedskixp View Post
    When done correctly with the right materials it will be stronger than new.
    Is this a generalisation? Or actually true for the NanoXcel hull as well?
    I'm sure you meant in the context of NanoXcel hulls but I want to be sure...

  10. #10
    SurfRider's Avatar
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    The nano cell, if repaired correctly should be good as new and just as strong. The problem is that people don't understand how to repair it. I doubt that the dealers really have any clue whatsoever. They don't do repairs, so they will always send it out. From what I understand it can be repaired with the West System epoxy, but the correct prep must be done to remove the wax so it will bond (and I'm, by far, no expert on bodywork and am actually terrible at it, so I would not even attempt it myself). If it delaminated then that is proof that they did not do it right. This is very common when people don't understand how to do the nano cell repairs.

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