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  1. #1

    TPS Problem - Gensis i 2002

    Hi,

    I have a funny problem with my TPS. I've replaced it with a brand new one and the problem still exists. I've also made sure there is a slight bit of slack in the throttle. Cleaned up connectors to TPS.

    What happens is say you push throttle to 100% sometimes 'full power' isn't achieved, feels gutless. If you rapidly release the throttle and then pump it back to 100% a couple of times full power will engage.

    Anybody recognise this problem? I'm going to try a new connector to the TPS, trying to source one of a car in AUS.....

    Cheers


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    You might want to check for EMM trouble codes using the LED tool. Might be a clue in there.

    When it works properly, what maximum sustained RPM do you see?

    When it doesn't respond properly to the throttle, what RPM do you get? Do you see a red light or warning message on the display when the problem happens?

  3. #3
    Haven't seen any EMM trouble codes in a long time :P

    When it works properly fairly sure it is just below 7000RPM. Argh I think it drops down to around 5500RPM when it doesn't respond.

    It had the non-pigtail TPS on it so I replaced it with that one. Is this correct? I really don't like the connector setup on it.

  4. #4
    2&4strokepolaristech's Avatar
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    Check your fuel pressure? You should have 20-30 psi while cranking and or running. You should see about 22-23 psi is what most operate at. If you have no fuel pressure the regulator has fallen off and is inside of the tank. Might not be a bad idea to compression check that engine as well. If that has no fuel pressure you might have done some damage.

    Hope this helps
    Jay

  5. #5
    I've just rebuilt the top end so compression is perfect. Fuel pressure last time I checked (a couple of months ago) was fine. It has to be something funny with the tps signal because it works perfectly 80% of the time. All you have to do is work the throttle a couple of times when it looses power and then it revs back up to 7k.

    Is it easy to find a replacement connector?

  6. #6
    jackofalltrades's Avatar
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    Could be a bad/damaged wire in the harness. I would start with cleaning the connector with contact cleaner and trying it again. If there is nyogel (I think that is what its called) present in the connector, it should be around the boot, not all over the pins as it is non-conductive. I worked on aircraft for almost 13 years and you would be suprised at the number of problems we ran into due to dirty cannon plugs. Pin retention (how tight the male pin fits into the female pin) is an issue with connectors so whatever you do, dont shove anothing down into the female pins in an attempt to clean them. A good blast or two with the contact cleaner will do just fine.

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stoj19 View Post
    ...It had the non-pigtail TPS on it so I replaced it with that one. Is this correct?

    I really don't like the connector setup on it.
    I thought the 2002 Ficht engines all used the pigtail version of the TPS. You sure it is a 2002 model?

    +1 on the connector contacts. Check the wire harness side of the connector very thoroughly. Look for loose pins, bad or failed wire crimps, dirt or grease inside the contacts, etc.

  8. #8
    downunder123
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    Hi mate, just wondering how did yo go with the TPS (it's been a while too). I am experiencing exactly the same problem with my Genesis I 2002 . I have just replaced TPS (pigtail) with the same new one..... didnt get a chance to test it yet.......

  9. #9
    downunder123
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    Update! New TPS installed and initially sluggish but then when first accelerated hard, back to its normal 6k-7k rpm. The change was just like before-instant and was related to throttle position (needed to be released and then quickly fully engaged). No problems since that initial hickup (about 2hrs of ride). My theory is that before I fully accelerated with the new TPS, the EMM was working with the data from the old TPS and once the new TPS pushed the upper limit - all came good????? Saying that, the old TPS was working OK 90% of the time so it wasn't permanently limiting the engine...................... I could be wrong and it maybe early to comment yet, but I think that fuel supply was definitely not the problem. Cheers.

  10. #10
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bspanovic View Post
    Hi mate, just wondering how did yo go with the TPS (it's been a while too). I am experiencing exactly the same problem with my Genesis I 2002 . I have just replaced TPS (pigtail) with the same new one..... didnt get a chance to test it yet.......
    Quote Originally Posted by bspanovic View Post
    Update! New TPS installed and initially sluggish but then when first accelerated hard, back to its normal 6k-7k rpm. The change was just like before-instant and was related to throttle position (needed to be released and then quickly fully engaged). No problems since that initial hiccup (about 2hrs of ride). My theory is that before I fully accelerated with the new TPS, the EMM was working with the data from the old TPS and once the new TPS pushed the upper limit - all came good????? Saying that, the old TPS was working OK 90% of the time so it wasn't permanently limiting the engine...................... I could be wrong and it maybe early to comment yet, but I think that fuel supply was definitely not the problem. Cheers.
    Thank you for proving the update. It is always helpful to get feedback and reports of what worked and what didn't.

    My understanding is that the EMM does adjust itself to the TPS signal, to some degree. Part of that is to ensure the EMM does a proper idle when the throttle is not being squeezed, even if the TPS idle signal is slightly high or low.

    Do make sure the throttle cable slack is adjusted perfectly. The throttle plates need to NOT move with the first tiny squeeze of the handlebar throttle lever. Just a wee bit of slack. The spec calls for 60 thousands gap at the lever IIRC but I have less slack on my own.

    At full squeeze you want the throttle shaft to nicely hit the stops, thereby ensuring that the TPS is sending a 100% signal to the EMM. Getting both idle and full throttle set correctly can be tricky. The throttle cable adjustment is on the throttle cable sheath a few inches from the throttle body. Be sure to adjust it in small increments, and snug down the locking ring. Recheck it with handlebars turned full left and right.

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