12-02-2010, 09:17 AM #1
2000 GP1200r rebuild after oil pump JOINT connector failure
I will be rebuilding the GP1200r engine shown in the pics below after the joint connector [part #2 in diagram] came off oil pump with 26 hours on the meter. I am looking for a dependable ski not interested in major engine modifications yet.
Work completed so far
Obtained used crankcase with matching top& bottom
Obtained used cylinders
Obtained WaveEater PV upgrade kit
Clean-up of flywheel and stator
Shipped carbs to OS Bill for rebuild and addition of primer ETC
Oil pump block off planned AND will be running premix
Obtained pressure test kit from Lowell Horning
I would appreciate feedback on the following:
What to do about crankshaft ? #3 cyl bearings and rod are not within specs
Piston, rings, pins ETC - suggestions on best value ?
Reeds ? - all appear undamaged but #3 is covered in grime
Thanks in advance for assistance
I also have another GP1200r under construction - more Holiday Fun !!
12-02-2010, 09:57 AM #2
The crank is the heart of your system, this something you want to have right. My suggestion is send to Cranworks for evaluation and rebuild if it can be saved. otherwise a new OEM would the thing for reliability.
Reeds can be cleaned, but if they are damaged they are very inexpensive used. I have seen lots of them on here, find a set from a 1300 if you can, they are compatible and flow better then the earlier 1200 ones.
Pistons I like Pro-X they come as a kit and have the rings and pins all you need is bearings.
12-11-2010, 10:55 PM #3
I am sending Crankshaft to Crank Works Inc. for evaluation
Crank Works Inc.
5245 S. Kyrene Rd, Suite 32
Tempe, AZ 85283
Last edited by dewzee1200; 12-14-2010 at 04:51 AM.
12-13-2010, 12:26 PM #4
Has anyone used Langcourt LTD. for Nikasil replating and cylinder work ?
Auto Zone has the 12mm oil pan drain plugs for replacement of Cat Sensor for $2.99 each see pic
12-15-2010, 05:11 PM #5
I plan on cleaning up all the engine and exhaust system bolts prior to re-assemly with loctite--- a few questions in search of tipsWhat if any chemical spray can be used to get the thread-locker out of the threaded case holes ?
Someone suggested cutting a pipe wire brush - I guess like the ones used for sweating copper -- I need something smaller in diameter
Can I soak the bolts in Mineral Sprirts or ACETONE - WHAT is the universal solvent ??
Hours at the grinding wheel with wirebrush attachment is no way to spent the holidays please advise
Last edited by dewzee1200; 12-23-2010 at 03:31 PM.
12-15-2010, 07:08 PM #6
some will say to use a tap and dye set and use the thread cleaner to chase them. this was a scary thought to do, i just used acetone and got them as good as i can. the cleaner they are the more accurate the torque you get is however.
12-15-2010, 08:32 PM #7
12-15-2010, 09:08 PM #8
I have found that chasing the threads with a tap and wd-40 is the quickest easiest way.
12-16-2010, 09:10 PM #9
- Join Date
- Sep 2010
Ouch, I've got the same ski hope mine doesnt come off, pulling carbs off mine now may have to find a better way to secure hoses. goodluck
12-20-2010, 03:49 PM #10
- Join Date
- Apr 2010
I had the oil pump joint connector go out on my XR1800 jet boat and it filled my engine bay with oil. I had a bolt stripped out on my flywheel that took weeks to get off.
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